Tired of rod knocks...

[cre]

Originally Posted by turbonicsperformance

the block is perfectly straight i checked it before it went together and just today when the crank was removed . it was rod #2 again im pretty sure that rod was out of round or something. its gonna run me 185 to have the crank and rods all redone. the block is gonna be flushed using brake clean at 120psi if theres anything in the block itll come out of it. YES my driving is very hard the car had 1200 miles on these bearings and maybe 300 of them are normal driving the rest is spirited driving around town, highway pulls, the strip,and drifting but even if the engine were driven at redline the entire 1200 miles the bearings should be able to handle it. the pump IS a 7mge pump and my cooler relief spring has a crack in it. i've found several things contributing to this problem. last time i just thought i was unlucky and got a bad bearing so i dropped the pan and put some bearings in it. this time i dropped the engine and put it on the stand so i'm finding the things to can't see until they come apart /: Oh well if it throws another rod then this block will go to the scrap bin I have the 185 plus parts now but i dont have the 335 plus for another swap at the moment.

I'm sorry, but I've covered ALL OF THIS. You'd do well to pull your fingers out of your ears... Thousands of complete novices have rebuilt these engines without as much trouble using certain proven methods.... expert builder or not you still might be wise to try to learn from them. Honestly, you may feel you've been taught by God, but please do understand why I might not be remotely impressed.

The drifting issues come down to oil pan design. It's easily remedied by some added baffling, a scraper and running slightly more oil than spec. The "A" group of engines (both Turbo A and Group A) all ran a far superior pan which addressed these shortcomings.