Tired of rod knocks... - Page 2

cre · 11-04-2011, 08:39 PM

Solid mounts are miserable; If you want something more rigid look at the pre89 mounts. Harmonics breaking the surface tension isn't an issue anyone I know of has ever gone through in one of these engines (definitely not at power levels like you're seeing); You're grasping at a straw that isn't there. It's not worth the stress on the frame as it's not going to fix anything.

You sure there wasn't still crap from that blockage in the head stuck in there and waiting like a timebomb? You did miss it the first time. Could have been debris got stuck in the oil cooler too; Did you flush it?

turbonicsperformance · 11-05-2011, 04:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cre

Solid mounts are miserable; If you want something more rigid look at the pre89 mounts. Harmonics breaking the surface tension isn't an issue anyone I know of has ever gone through in one of these engines (definitely not at power levels like you're seeing); You're grasping at a straw that isn't there. It's not worth the stress on the frame as it's not going to fix anything.

You sure there wasn't still crap from that blockage in the head stuck in there and waiting like a timebomb? You did miss it the first time. Could have been debris got stuck in the oil cooler too; Did you flush it?

the head was replaced with a different one and the engine was torn down 100% and all passages were cleaned and and bearings replaced.
the oil cooler and lines were replaced when the engine was torn down and head replaced (i just happened to get a new one at the same time).
and the mounts are solid not for rigidity but for the pure problem of clearance. the miata is a short car and the oil pan sits 1/8th inch off the steering rack and still doesn't clear the hood. I've gotten use to them and don't really notice the vibrations etc. any more. it just makes riding in any other car more comfortable lol it also has the stiffest springs available for the car along with coilovers setup for drift. i basically dd a race car. You gotta pay to roll in style (:

cre · 11-05-2011, 12:43 PM

I'd still want mounts with SOME dampening there; Even if I had to build a mould and cast it myself.

Yeah, they're tiny... smaller than my MR-2. Fun rides these cars.

Sonyps307 · 11-05-2011, 03:49 PM

R u running a cheap aftermarket solid crank pulley they also wipe out the bearing on a 7m. Can the stock oil gauge even read 6 psi.

cre · 11-05-2011, 11:36 PM

True about the pulley.... Your undampened clutch sends a nice shock down the line too; That's not going to do it by itself on a rebuilt engine, but your issues may be cumulative.

I just want to reemphasize, an undampened crank pulley and an unsprung clutch aren't going to keep killing a new engine, not unless something seriously out of balance. I agree that an oiling issue is most likely the primary culprit.

What oil are you running and how are you breaking the engine in? Are you running a stock flywheel and was it resurfaced?

turbonicsperformance · 11-06-2011, 10:16 PM

stock ge flywheel brand new 3k ago and stock pulley that appears straight but its possible its out of balance i guess. the clutch was installed after the first set of bearings went out so i doubt thats it. plus the clutch is actually not all that harsh at all it only chatters if i drive really slow from a stop. other than that it feels like the sprung full face i had before. im pretty much 100% sure i have a ge pump in my engine. When i have the engine out this time i'm gonna have the crank machined or replaced and clean all of the oil passages again. i'll also replace the stock cooler setup with a thermostat full flow system and another set of piston squirters just to cut out ALL possibilities.

the engine was broke in on 10w30 conventional oil and the oil was changed at 300 then 1000 then 1500 miles running 100% stock boost and tune.

cre · 11-07-2011, 12:23 AM

The pulley's easy to check even on the engine, but as you're taking it apart anyway that's academic.

Why'd you break it in with a variable viscosity oil?? Use a flat 40 weight.

How are you breaking it in too? The old fashioned 'baby it for 4K mi' or the nice and quick '50 mi aggro as hell' break in?

turbonicsperformance · 11-07-2011, 12:41 AM

drove it easy for 1k and moderate for 500 before ever going WOT. I've always broke in engines with 10w30 and never had a problem before. I only use conventional and occasionally if the customer requests it I will use an additive. during tech school I was always told to breakin the engine with the oil your going to use (except for synthetic) because it will allow the bearings to wear as they need to for that oil. My instructor was a GM instructor is on the ASE board and wrote 2 of the ASE tests so I trusted what he said and never had an issue with it before. i've built 80-100 engines that make alot more power than mine does I'm just at a wall with this engine unless i drop a ton of cash into it which i'd prefer not to do. so like i said i'll see what i can do with the oil cooler and i'll replace all the squirters and oil pump as well as completely flush all the oil passages and lines while the engine is apart and see if it helps. if not it looks like i'm swapping something else in, probably 1uz.
thanks for all the suggestions i'm 100% certain its going to end up being the oil pump. I found the other pump and pulled the part# off it and its from a gte which means the pump in my engine is a ge pump. also the cooler could be stuck open. I'll take some pictures and let you know what comes of this the engine will be out and on a stand by wednesday.

cre · 11-07-2011, 07:56 PM

Yeah, keep us posted. I'm quite curious because I don't know anyone who's had this much trouble rebuilding a 7M... bad luck sucks.

turbonicsperformance · 11-14-2011, 07:03 AM

well just a little update. it was the same rod again but this time it completely spun the bearing and screwed the crank pretty bad the rod doesnt look too good either. I'm gonna call around and see how much some machine shops want to grind polish and campher the crank and true the rods and see what comes from it, otherwise it might be bye bye 7m hello 2j or 1uz. I love the 7m I love the 28 mpg in town and i LOOOOVVVE the torque and sound of it. I also love the unique-ness of the swap and that alot of people dont recognize the engine. it'll hurt to say godbye but if its gonna run me more than $500 for the machining bearings and oil pump then its just not cost effective to stay 7m /: i can pick up a 1uz or 2j for 500 with trans and ecm right away.

11-04-2011, 08:39 PM	#11
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	Solid mounts are miserable; If you want something more rigid look at the pre89 mounts. Harmonics breaking the surface tension isn't an issue anyone I know of has ever gone through in one of these engines (definitely not at power levels like you're seeing); You're grasping at a straw that isn't there. It's not worth the stress on the frame as it's not going to fix anything. You sure there wasn't still crap from that blockage in the head stuck in there and waiting like a timebomb? You did miss it the first time. Could have been debris got stuck in the oil cooler too; Did you flush it? __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar --->

11-05-2011, 12:43 PM	#13
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	I'd still want mounts with SOME dampening there; Even if I had to build a mould and cast it myself. Yeah, they're tiny... smaller than my MR-2. Fun rides these cars. __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar --->

11-05-2011, 11:36 PM	#15
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	True about the pulley.... Your undampened clutch sends a nice shock down the line too; That's not going to do it by itself on a rebuilt engine, but your issues may be cumulative. I just want to reemphasize, an undampened crank pulley and an unsprung clutch aren't going to keep killing a new engine, not unless something seriously out of balance. I agree that an oiling issue is most likely the primary culprit. What oil are you running and how are you breaking the engine in? Are you running a stock flywheel and was it resurfaced? __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar ---> Last edited by cre; 11-05-2011 at 11:55 PM.

11-06-2011, 10:16 PM	#16
turbonicsperformance 3" Exhaust Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: sarasota fl Posts: 194	stock ge flywheel brand new 3k ago and stock pulley that appears straight but its possible its out of balance i guess. the clutch was installed after the first set of bearings went out so i doubt thats it. plus the clutch is actually not all that harsh at all it only chatters if i drive really slow from a stop. other than that it feels like the sprung full face i had before. im pretty much 100% sure i have a ge pump in my engine. When i have the engine out this time i'm gonna have the crank machined or replaced and clean all of the oil passages again. i'll also replace the stock cooler setup with a thermostat full flow system and another set of piston squirters just to cut out ALL possibilities. the engine was broke in on 10w30 conventional oil and the oil was changed at 300 then 1000 then 1500 miles running 100% stock boost and tune. __________________ 92 miata 7mgte swap forged pistons,studded mhg, 3 inch dp with a glass pack,blowthrough MAF-T,550cc inj, act stage 2 clutch, fmic kit, greddy rs, full wire tuck, rx7 lsd rear with 4.10s. 15psi "ct26-A"??(waiting on dyno #s) if anyone knows whats up with my turbo let me know it has a larger comp wheel nicer machining and 6 dual fins rather than 5? its confusing and keep finding too much contradicting info. would LLLLLOOOOOOOOVVVVVVVEEEEE a compressor map

11-07-2011, 12:23 AM	#17
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	The pulley's easy to check even on the engine, but as you're taking it apart anyway that's academic. Why'd you break it in with a variable viscosity oil?? Use a flat 40 weight. How are you breaking it in too? The old fashioned 'baby it for 4K mi' or the nice and quick '50 mi aggro as hell' break in? __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar --->

11-05-2011, 03:49 PM	#14
Sonyps307 Lexus & 550's Join Date: May 2010 Location: Baltimore Posts: 526	R u running a cheap aftermarket solid crank pulley they also wipe out the bearing on a 7m. Can the stock oil gauge even read 6 psi.

11-07-2011, 12:41 AM	#18
turbonicsperformance 3" Exhaust Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: sarasota fl Posts: 194	drove it easy for 1k and moderate for 500 before ever going WOT. I've always broke in engines with 10w30 and never had a problem before. I only use conventional and occasionally if the customer requests it I will use an additive. during tech school I was always told to breakin the engine with the oil your going to use (except for synthetic) because it will allow the bearings to wear as they need to for that oil. My instructor was a GM instructor is on the ASE board and wrote 2 of the ASE tests so I trusted what he said and never had an issue with it before. i've built 80-100 engines that make alot more power than mine does I'm just at a wall with this engine unless i drop a ton of cash into it which i'd prefer not to do. so like i said i'll see what i can do with the oil cooler and i'll replace all the squirters and oil pump as well as completely flush all the oil passages and lines while the engine is apart and see if it helps. if not it looks like i'm swapping something else in, probably 1uz. thanks for all the suggestions i'm 100% certain its going to end up being the oil pump. I found the other pump and pulled the part# off it and its from a gte which means the pump in my engine is a ge pump. also the cooler could be stuck open. I'll take some pictures and let you know what comes of this the engine will be out and on a stand by wednesday. __________________ 92 miata 7mgte swap forged pistons,studded mhg, 3 inch dp with a glass pack,blowthrough MAF-T,550cc inj, act stage 2 clutch, fmic kit, greddy rs, full wire tuck, rx7 lsd rear with 4.10s. 15psi "ct26-A"??(waiting on dyno #s) if anyone knows whats up with my turbo let me know it has a larger comp wheel nicer machining and 6 dual fins rather than 5? its confusing and keep finding too much contradicting info. would LLLLLOOOOOOOOVVVVVVVEEEEE a compressor map

11-07-2011, 07:56 PM	#19
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	Yeah, keep us posted. I'm quite curious because I don't know anyone who's had this much trouble rebuilding a 7M... bad luck sucks. __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar --->

11-14-2011, 07:03 AM	#20
turbonicsperformance 3" Exhaust Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: sarasota fl Posts: 194	well just a little update. it was the same rod again but this time it completely spun the bearing and screwed the crank pretty bad the rod doesnt look too good either. I'm gonna call around and see how much some machine shops want to grind polish and campher the crank and true the rods and see what comes from it, otherwise it might be bye bye 7m hello 2j or 1uz. I love the 7m I love the 28 mpg in town and i LOOOOVVVE the torque and sound of it. I also love the unique-ness of the swap and that alot of people dont recognize the engine. it'll hurt to say godbye but if its gonna run me more than $500 for the machining bearings and oil pump then its just not cost effective to stay 7m /: i can pick up a 1uz or 2j for 500 with trans and ecm right away. __________________ 92 miata 7mgte swap forged pistons,studded mhg, 3 inch dp with a glass pack,blowthrough MAF-T,550cc inj, act stage 2 clutch, fmic kit, greddy rs, full wire tuck, rx7 lsd rear with 4.10s. 15psi "ct26-A"??(waiting on dyno #s) if anyone knows whats up with my turbo let me know it has a larger comp wheel nicer machining and 6 dual fins rather than 5? its confusing and keep finding too much contradicting info. would LLLLLOOOOOOOOVVVVVVVEEEEE a compressor map

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