Tired of rod knocks...

[Ranma]

Originally Posted by turbonicsperformance

well just a little update. it was the same rod again but this time it completely spun the bearing and screwed the crank pretty bad the rod doesnt look too good either. I'm gonna call around and see how much some machine shops want to grind polish and campher the crank and true the rods and see what comes from it, otherwise it might be bye bye 7m hello 2j or 1uz. I love the 7m I love the 28 mpg in town and i LOOOOVVVE the torque and sound of it. I also love the unique-ness of the swap and that alot of people dont recognize the engine. it'll hurt to say godbye but if its gonna run me more than $500 for the machining bearings and oil pump then its just not cost effective to stay 7m /: i can pick up a 1uz or 2j for 500 with trans and ecm right away.

Dude there is a time and place for everything, buy a new block assembly and send this one to get recycled. My Firechicken did the same thing and no matter what the fellow did it was still fracked.

[turbonicsperformance]

the block is fine. if it were the block it would have been all the rods or atleast a different rod than before. i'm gonna try and be able to rebuild again but if not the the cost of a jdm 7m is getting WAYYYY up there whereas a 2jz rb25 or 1uz is still reasonable. hell a jdm rb25 with trans ecm turbos wiring everything is only $1300 and can make almost 400 on stock turbos. so its just not smart to stay 7m if i need a new block assembly or if the cost goes over $500 because there is a 2jzvvt and several 1uz at the local junk yard for 335 with trans and ecm/wiring

[87hilux7mge]

have you had the crank mains checked for straightness or align bored? just because all of the rods arent going bad doesnt mean the block isnt out of alignment.

if its spinning bearings, id look at the oil passage ways in the crank and block as well. could be a blockage closer too the front galley and restrict oil to bearing #1. just a couple thoughts.

wish i lived around where you are. there isnt a 1uz, rb25 or 2jz of any kind around here for less than 2500.

[Ranma]

Originally Posted by turbonicsperformance

the block is fine. if it were the block it would have been all the rods or atleast a different rod than before. i'm gonna try and be able to rebuild again but if not the the cost of a jdm 7m is getting WAYYYY up there whereas a 2jz rb25 or 1uz is still reasonable. hell a jdm rb25 with trans ecm turbos wiring everything is only $1300 and can make almost 400 on stock turbos. so its just not smart to stay 7m if i need a new block assembly or if the cost goes over $500 because there is a 2jzvvt and several 1uz at the local junk yard for 335 with trans and ecm/wiring

Dude there is a time for everything, so tell me why you are having such problems. Me my time is worth a lot to me! Then you have the parts, etc. You would be better off recycling the short block and replacing it. Then again have you considered your driving?

[turbonicsperformance]

the block is perfectly straight i checked it before it went together and just today when the crank was removed . it was rod #2 again im pretty sure that rod was out of round or something. its gonna run me 185 to have the crank and rods all redone. the block is gonna be flushed using brake clean at 120psi if theres anything in the block itll come out of it. YES my driving is very hard the car had 1200 miles on these bearings and maybe 300 of them are normal driving the rest is spirited driving around town, highway pulls, the strip,and drifting but even if the engine were driven at redline the entire 1200 miles the bearings should be able to handle it. the pump IS a 7mge pump and my cooler relief spring has a crack in it. i've found several things contributing to this problem. last time i just thought i was unlucky and got a bad bearing so i dropped the pan and put some bearings in it. this time i dropped the engine and put it on the stand so i'm finding the things to can't see until they come apart /: Oh well if it throws another rod then this block will go to the scrap bin I have the 185 plus parts now but i dont have the 335 plus for another swap at the moment.

[Awyman18]

all i know is....drifting and 7m's dont mix from wat ive heard. everything else is golden.

[Ranma]

Originally Posted by turbonicsperformance

the block is perfectly straight i checked it before it went together and just today when the crank was removed . it was rod #2 again im pretty sure that rod was out of round or something. its gonna run me 185 to have the crank and rods all redone. the block is gonna be flushed using brake clean at 120psi if theres anything in the block itll come out of it. YES my driving is very hard the car had 1200 miles on these bearings and maybe 300 of them are normal driving the rest is spirited driving around town, highway pulls, the strip,and drifting but even if the engine were driven at redline the entire 1200 miles the bearings should be able to handle it. the pump IS a 7mge pump and my cooler relief spring has a crack in it. i've found several things contributing to this problem. last time i just thought i was unlucky and got a bad bearing so i dropped the pan and put some bearings in it. this time i dropped the engine and put it on the stand so i'm finding the things to can't see until they come apart /: Oh well if it throws another rod then this block will go to the scrap bin I have the 185 plus parts now but i dont have the 335 plus for another swap at the moment.

My suggestion for you is not to drift or race your daily. These cars were not designed to handle the stresses from these "activities". You should use your Supra as your daily and something more appropriate for your drifter, like a Fire Chicken. My old Fire Chicken with its 5.7 litter engine was a blast. A lot more torque than my Supra and the drive train that would not stop! The rest of the car was garbage but he could run! However now that I have "reformed", the Supra works fine for me

[turbonicsperformance]

its not a supra i drive a miata with a 7m in it . i built it to handle the abuse ie coilovers swaybars, beefed diff, better clutch, tires and rims all that good stuff. but most of the time it is street driving. I get what your saying though you need a dd and a toy. but everything on my car has held up perfect besides the engine. this time it should be good though new oilpump crank and rods machined for the bearings rebuild the head and new cooler setup. we'll see

[cre]

Originally Posted by turbonicsperformance

the block is perfectly straight i checked it before it went together and just today when the crank was removed . it was rod #2 again im pretty sure that rod was out of round or something. its gonna run me 185 to have the crank and rods all redone. the block is gonna be flushed using brake clean at 120psi if theres anything in the block itll come out of it. YES my driving is very hard the car had 1200 miles on these bearings and maybe 300 of them are normal driving the rest is spirited driving around town, highway pulls, the strip,and drifting but even if the engine were driven at redline the entire 1200 miles the bearings should be able to handle it. the pump IS a 7mge pump and my cooler relief spring has a crack in it. i've found several things contributing to this problem. last time i just thought i was unlucky and got a bad bearing so i dropped the pan and put some bearings in it. this time i dropped the engine and put it on the stand so i'm finding the things to can't see until they come apart /: Oh well if it throws another rod then this block will go to the scrap bin I have the 185 plus parts now but i dont have the 335 plus for another swap at the moment.

I'm sorry, but I've covered ALL OF THIS. You'd do well to pull your fingers out of your ears... Thousands of complete novices have rebuilt these engines without as much trouble using certain proven methods.... expert builder or not you still might be wise to try to learn from them. Honestly, you may feel you've been taught by God, but please do understand why I might not be remotely impressed.

The drifting issues come down to oil pan design. It's easily remedied by some added baffling, a scraper and running slightly more oil than spec. The "A" group of engines (both Turbo A and Group A) all ran a far superior pan which addressed these shortcomings.

[turbonicsperformance]

Originally Posted by cre

I'm sorry, but I've covered ALL OF THIS. You'd do well to pull your fingers out of your ears... Thousands of complete novices have rebuilt these engines without as much trouble using certain proven methods.... expert builder or not you still might be wise to try to learn from them. Honestly, you may feel you've been taught by God, but please do understand why I might not be remotely impressed.

The drifting issues come down to oil pan design. It's easily remedied by some added baffling, a scraper and running slightly more oil than spec. The "A" group of engines (both Turbo A and Group A) all ran a far superior pan which addressed these shortcomings.

i never said i don't make mistakes , actually quite the contrary I have admitted that i overlooked certain things. You have actually been very helpful with the info youve given me so idk exactly where your coming from with "pull my fingers out of my ears". I didnt ask any questions just answered others questions. I know whatever i overlooked was 100% my fault as I did ALL of the work myself ie oil pump, relief spring, and the #2 rod IS out of round. I honestly posted this asking a few simple questions and its turned into a big ordeal where I'm now being slightly insulted. I havent been rude even when answering questions that were answered in my first post and every time i've gotten a good response I've gone out and checked the engine right after. All i said is the mains are straight. the bearings PERFECT the rod bearings were also PERFECT with the exception of the #2 rod (I think it was out of round when it was originally installed) I probably was just in a hurry and measured a different rod twice. When the engine was being built/installed I was in a hurry because I only had this car for my dd and no other transportation, the stock engine had just blown up and I was still working a ways from my house. I realize pretty much ANYONE can rebuild an engine its not that much of a skill if you have the correct tools and specs. Thanks for the help/info but if i'm going to be ridiculed or told that i'm trying to impress someone i'll just go elsewhere with any questions. -__-