[turbonicsperformance]

Originally Posted by cre

With all the trouble you're having I'd make sure the crank's straight anyway... It's not the stiffest of metal, and they're quite long. I have seen one go south pretty quick myself (never checked one that was out for less than a week though, but still not a bad idea).

Yes, they look the same but the GTE flows a good amount more to account for all the additional sources of pressure drop: turbo, cooler and oil squirters. I'd guess 25% more or so.

If you can touch the oil it's running too cool. The stock cooler is PRESSURE based, not temp. If the valve is stuck open or the spring is weak it'll stay open, over cool the oil and tank your oil pressure. I HIGHLY recommend you just ditch it and get a thermostat in there.

How are you measuring the oil pressure? Not with the stock gauge I hope. Low pressure is fine below 3K (according to Toyota) but 4psi is lower than any GTE I've worked on... or GE for that matter. Toyota says 4.3psi or more is fine but in a healthy engine I don't think I've ever seen it lower than around 6 or 7 warm.

when it was first built it idled around 10 12 psi warm and would top around 40.After about 1k miles it would idle around 6-7psi and now it idles at 3-4 psi and is knocking pretty loud. You can't hear it under a load or at idle it makes noise from 1800-3000 rpm any higher or lower its silent.
does anyone sell a full kit to convert it to a full flow thermostat system? or am i gonna have to piece one together?
everything was checked before the engine was put together the crank is straight as well as the block it was checked on a machinists table and showed less than .001 difference anywhere.

I'm really thinking i put the ge pump in it hopefully the crank is fine this time. last time it happened i had one bearing with what loooked like a burnt spot but no missing material or scoring on the crank or bearings...