Best Performance Clutch

[SilvaT]

Originally Posted by pwpanas

Bhp=whp, right? If so, then the oem mkiv tt clutch can not reliably handle that much rwhp. Even 400rwhp is pushing it.

You mean like a single turbo?

Yeah soon i want to get a single turbo, but not just yet

I honestly can't say until I know your max rwhp goal.

i would say im looking to make it around 500 hp

Again, there's absolutely no way in the world to confirm this without knowing your planned max rwhp.

Why do you say that? The oem fuel pump, and in fact the entire oem fuel system is good to at least 500rwhp....and the oem twins can't push that much rwhp so why would you need a new fuel pump????

This is what i was told by the guy who was going to do my exhaust fitting etc.. i was a bit like errr why as well, as i didn't see why i needed to change the pump for just the exhaust!

Every multi-disk clutch, including the TRD twin, comes with it's own lightweight flywheel.

Unfortunately, no good, high-horsepower-holding aftermarket clutch will be cheap. ...and the higher the hp/tq rating, the more $ it will generally cost. For example the RPS twin carbon is about $2900 and the Tilton triple carbon is about $4500. It's easy to buy more clutch than you need, so the first thing you need to do is figure out exactly what rwhp figure you need the clutch to handle.

yeah i know everywhere is roughly charging the same price, so i guess you get what you pay for. I'll keep looking for one that will handle around 500hp, unless you know of any from your experience!

cheers

[pwpanas]

Originally Posted by SilvaT

yeah i know everywhere is roughly charging the same price, so i guess you get what you pay for. I'll keep looking for one that will handle around 500hp, unless you know of any from your experience!...

I'm a pro installer and I've worked with almost every one out there (really!). I don't think I'd agree that everywhere is roughly charging the same price, since multi-disk clutches are typically much more expensive than single disk clutches.

I can advise you as to exactly what would be best for your application, but I need to know a bit more about what you plan to use it for in order to give you the best advice. Please answer these questions:

1. Again, what "engine work" are you planning? A single turbo?
2. What is your application? Roadrace? Autocross? Drag Race? Drifting? Daily driving? Hill Climb (eg. Pike's Peak)? Top speed (200mph+)? etc.
3. The other question I posted above isn't clutch related, but I'm very curious: Please tell me why you say "im am looking to change my whole exhaust system taking out both CATs and will therefore have to upgrade my feul pump"?

[SilvaT]

Originally Posted by pwpanas

I'm a pro installer and I've worked with almost every one out there (really!). I don't think I'd agree that everywhere is roughly charging the same price, since multi-disk clutches are typically much more expensive than single disk clutches.

I can advise you as to exactly what would be best for your application, but I need to know a bit more about what you plan to use it for in order to give you the best advice. Please answer these questions:

1. Again, what "engine work" are you planning? A single turbo?
2. What is your application? Roadrace? Autocross? Drag Race? Drifting? Daily driving? Hill Climb (eg. Pike's Peak)? Top speed (200mph+)? etc.
3. The other question I posted above isn't clutch related, but I'm very curious: Please tell me why you say "im am looking to change my whole exhaust system taking out both CATs and will therefore have to upgrade my fuel pump"?

Yeah i am planning to do a single turbo conversion, however not immediately, really want it more for roadrace. The reason i said i would have to change my fuel was coz the guy who was doing my modification advised me that i may have to upgrade my fuel pump, as i was taking out both CAT's... i was unsure as to why this was necessary as well!

Also i what i meant to say before was all twin platel clutches are reasonably expensive!

[pwpanas]

Originally Posted by SilvaT

Yeah i am planning to do a single turbo conversion, however not immediately, really want it more for roadrace.

I see. What is your absolute max rwhp goal for the next two years? If you're willing to consider a single disk clutch (see below), I can recommend at least one good option for you, based on the rwhp goal you already stated...

Originally Posted by SilvaT

The reason i said i would have to change my fuel was coz the guy who was doing my modification advised me that i may have to upgrade my fuel pump, as i was taking out both CAT's... i was unsure as to why this was necessary as well!

I have to advise you to stop using that guy as an installer because he's dead wrong. Sorry to be so blunt about it, but there's really no other way to say it. The oem fuel pump is good for over 500rwhp (through a 6spd), and absolutely anything the oem twin turbos can push out. I'd literally LOVE the opportunity to 'educate' your installer.

Originally Posted by SilvaT

Also i what i meant to say before was all twin platel clutches are reasonably expensive!

Agreed, but why are you limiting yourself to twin-plate clutches? There are several aftermarket single disk clutches that can hold your target rwhp... Only downside is slightly higher/harder pedal pressure. Would that be okay with you?

[SilvaT]

Originally Posted by pwpanas

I see. What is your absolute max rwhp goal for the next two years? If you're willing to consider a single disk clutch (see below), I can recommend at least one good option for you, based on the rwhp goal you already stated...

I have to advise you to stop using that guy as an installer because he's dead wrong. Sorry to be so blunt about it, but there's really no other way to say it. The oem fuel pump is good for over 500rwhp (through a 6spd), and absolutely anything the oem twin turbos can push out. I'd literally LOVE the opportunity to 'educate' your installer.

Agreed, but why are you limiting yourself to twin-plate clutches? There are several aftermarket single disk clutches that can hold your target rwhp... Only downside is slightly higher/harder pedal pressure. Would that be okay with you?

I would say the max goal would be around 520rwhp, yeah if you could recommend a clutch that could hold that without needing to be changed that would be great. With regards to pedal pressure, i wouldn't really have a problem with that.

I'll pass on your advise when i speak to my installer, and let you know what he says.

Cheers

T

[SilvaT]

Originally Posted by SilvaT

I would say the max goal would be around 520rwhp, yeah if you could recommend a clutch that could hold that without needing to be changed that would be great. With regards to pedal pressure, i would really have a problem with that.

I'll pass on your advise when i speak to my installer, and let you know what he says.

Cheers

T

Sorry ,meant to say WOULDN'T really have a problem with extra pedal pressure!

[pwpanas]

Originally Posted by SilvaT

I would say the max goal would be around 520rwhp, yeah if you could recommend a clutch that could hold that without needing to be changed that would be great. With regards to pedal pressure, i wouldn't really have a problem with that...

The best all-around single disk clutch I'm aware of, for durability and holding power, and all applications except maybe hard-core drag racing is by South Bend. It's their full-face model with the Kevlar disk. Here's a link:
http://www.dxdracingclutches.com/supra.html
Click "Skip Intro", then "Catalog", then "Toyota", then "Supra"
"Toyota Supra - Street Series", Part# K922 - TZ Series Stage 2

You might ask why I believe it's the best single disk clutch available for the Mkiv Supra Turbo, for most applications, and my response is that I've seen almost every other single disk clutch break or prematurely wear out in various conditions. In other words, most of the others have serious weak point(s). Note that a common weak point is the ability to stand up to regular old stop-and-go rush hour traffic. For example, it saddens me to say that I personally saw an expensive carbon-carbon clutch reduced to a pricey pile of carbon dust in the bottom of a bellhousing simply because it was daily driven in slow stop-and-go rush hour traffic (slipped as normal when speeds were slower than 1st gear) for a couple of months. I've also seen a carbon-ceramic clutch disk chew up a brand-new oem flywheel with one single drive up onto a steep set of ramps, slipping the clutch for control. Note that an oem clutch would have handled these two situations without any difficulty at all...but of course the oem clutch setup does not handle the power. South Bend's kevlar disk will stand up to all of that (without destroying your flywheel) AND aggressive road course or drag strip driving AND it will hold 520rwhp+ with ease.

Use the South Bend Kevlar clutch ($565) with an RPS 'Cyn-R-G' flywheel (2nd item on the page, Part#RP BF-22170) (~$425) (again, as long as you don't mind the additional tranny noise), with new bearings&snap-rings (from Toyota) and you're set. Do not re-use the oem flywheel, the existing bearings or the existing snap rings. If you decide not to go with a lightened flywheel, do NOT re-use the old flywheel - get a new one from Toyota (~$400). Your old flywheel will have heat spots and will not work properly because of it. Note that the overall combo is just over $1k+shipping, and is MUCH cheaper than most multi-disk clutches...

Here's a clutch install article, but you have to skip past the outdated&biased 'evaluation' section in the beginning. Start reading with this paragraph:
"Prior to putting that nice polished looking flywheel and pressure plate in your car, make sure you sand the metal with some 100 grit sand paper to ruff it up. This will help the surfaces mate once installed..."
http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/clutch/index.html

Originally Posted by SilvaT

...I'll pass on your advise when i speak to my installer, and let you know what he says.

I'm not sure I offered him any advice...I simply corrected an error in what he was telling his customer(s). I guess my advice to him would be to research and be 100% sure before you pass along critical information...because when you find out your installer has been 'BSing' you, your first thought is that he's trying to rip you off (at least, mine would be). Whether he's actually unscrupulous, or he just made an honest mistake, we may never know. Either way he failed in his responsibility to be MUCH more careful before he passes along inaccurate information like that.

[SilvaT]

Originally Posted by pwpanas

The best all-around single disk clutch I'm aware of, for durability and holding power, and all applications except maybe hard-core drag racing is by South Bend. It's their full-face model with the Kevlar disk. Here's a link:
http://www.dxdracingclutches.com/supra.html
Click "Skip Intro", then "Catalog", then "Toyota", then "Supra"
"Toyota Supra - Street Series", Part# K922 - TZ Series Stage 2

You might ask why I believe it's the best single disk clutch available for the Mkiv Supra Turbo, for most applications, and my response is that I've seen almost every other single disk clutch break or prematurely wear out in various conditions. In other words, most of the others have serious weak point(s). Note that a common weak point is the ability to stand up to regular old stop-and-go rush hour traffic. For example, it saddens me to say that I personally saw an expensive carbon-carbon clutch reduced to a pricey pile of carbon dust in the bottom of a bellhousing simply because it was daily driven in slow stop-and-go rush hour traffic (slipped as normal when speeds were slower than 1st gear) for a couple of months. I've also seen a carbon-ceramic clutch disk chew up a brand-new oem flywheel with one single drive up onto a steep set of ramps, slipping the clutch for control. Note that an oem clutch would have handled these two situations without any difficulty at all...but of course the oem clutch setup does not handle the power. South Bend's kevlar disk will stand up to all of that (without destroying your flywheel) AND aggressive road course or drag strip driving AND it will hold 520rwhp+ with ease.

Use the South Bend Kevlar clutch ($565) with an RPS 'Cyn-R-G' flywheel (2nd item on the page, Part#RP BF-22170) (~$425) (again, as long as you don't mind the additional tranny noise), with new bearings&snap-rings (from Toyota) and you're set. Do not re-use the oem flywheel, the existing bearings or the existing snap rings. If you decide not to go with a lightened flywheel, do NOT re-use the old flywheel - get a new one from Toyota (~$400). Your old flywheel will have heat spots and will not work properly because of it. Note that the overall combo is just over $1k+shipping, and is MUCH cheaper than most multi-disk clutches...

Here's a clutch install article, but you have to skip past the outdated&biased 'evaluation' section in the beginning. Start reading with this paragraph:
"Prior to putting that nice polished looking flywheel and pressure plate in your car, make sure you sand the metal with some 100 grit sand paper to ruff it up. This will help the surfaces mate once installed..."
http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/clutch/index.html

I'm not sure I offered him any advice...I simply corrected an error in what he was telling his customer(s). I guess my advice to him would be to research and be 100% sure before you pass along critical information...because when you find out your installer has been 'BSing' you, your first thought is that he's trying to rip you off (at least, mine would be). Whether he's actually unscrupulous, or he just made an honest mistake, we may never know. Either way he failed in his responsibility to be MUCH more careful before he passes along inaccurate information like that.

That sounds great, will most likely go with that! however have you seen exedy-Hyper link clutch,

http://www.wrc-tech.co.uk/exedy.htm

sounds pretty good, wat do you think.

[pwpanas]

Originally Posted by SilvaT

...I'll pass on your advise when i speak to my installer, and let you know what he says...

Any updates?

[SilvaT]

Originally Posted by pwpanas

Any updates?

Not as yet, i am still awaiting the parts, they take around 10days or so to arrive......need to get the car back on the road ASAP