Water in Oil???? HG???

[IHateHacks]

TDC is when the notch on the crank pulley lines up with the 0 degree mark on the lower timing belt cover. Every time the crank pulley notch lines up with the 0 degree mark, the no.1 piston is on TDC.

Since the head is off the block, there is only one TDC. But when you put the head on, there are 2 TDC's. It's the same with any engine OHC, DOHC or OHV. One is on the compression stroke and the valves are closed and the cam gear matchmarks line up with the notches on the inner timing belt cover. The other is on the exhaust stroke with the exhaust valves open and the cam gear matchmarks are 180 degrees to the notches on the inner timing belt cover. Every 4 stroke engine has 2 TDC's, even your OHV "cam in the block" camaro. For every 2 revolutions of the crank, the cam(s) revolve once.

So, before you place the head on, make sure the crank pulley notch lines up with the 0 on the lower timing belt cover. Then when you install the timing belt you determine what TDC it is on. With the cam gear marks lined up with the notches in the inner timing belt cover you are on the correct TDC. I know it sounds confusing but it really isn't. Did you build the motor in your camaro that you list in your sig? If you did, then when you put the timing chain on you did the same thing, crank gear was lined up with the cam gear mark. Then, if you spun the crank 1 revolution, the cam gear no longer lined up, yet the no.1 piston was at TDC again. Spin the crank 1 move revolution and the gears lined up again.

You'll see what I mean when you put the timing belt on. Spin the crank one revolution from the 0 degree mark and you'll see the cams only moved 180 degrees yet you come back to the 0 mark on the crank which means the piston is on TDC, but on the exhaust stroke.

As long as the crank pulley notch is lined up with the 0 mark on the lower timing belt cover you are good to go. Then when the head is on, just line up the cam gears with their notches in the inner timing belt cover, install the timing belt and you are straight. Then its time to install the CPS (Cam Position Sensor). But we will cross that bridge when we get there.

[Z'mnypit]

Originally Posted by IHateHacks

TDC is when the notch on the crank pulley lines up with the 0 degree mark on the lower timing belt cover. Every time the crank pulley notch lines up with the 0 degree mark, the no.1 piston is on TDC.

Since the head is off the block, there is only one TDC. But when you put the head on, there are 2 TDC's. It's the same with any engine OHC, DOHC or OHV. One is on the compression stroke and the valves are closed and the cam gear matchmarks line up with the notches on the inner timing belt cover. The other is on the exhaust stroke with the exhaust valves open and the cam gear matchmarks are 180 degrees to the notches on the inner timing belt cover. Every 4 stroke engine has 2 TDC's, even your OHV "cam in the block" camaro. For every 2 revolutions of the crank, the cam(s) revolve once.

So, before you place the head on, make sure the crank pulley notch lines up with the 0 on the lower timing belt cover. Then when you install the timing belt you determine what TDC it is on. With the cam gear marks lined up with the notches in the inner timing belt cover you are on the correct TDC. I know it sounds confusing but it really isn't. Did you build the motor in your camaro that you list in your sig? If you did, then when you put the timing chain on you did the same thing, crank gear was lined up with the cam gear mark. Then, if you spun the crank 1 revolution, the cam gear no longer lined up, yet the no.1 piston was at TDC again. Spin the crank 1 move revolution and the gears lined up again.

You'll see what I mean when you put the timing belt on. Spin the crank one revolution from the 0 degree mark and you'll see the cams only moved 180 degrees yet you come back to the 0 mark on the crank which means the piston is on TDC, but on the exhaust stroke.

As long as the crank pulley notch is lined up with the 0 mark on the lower timing belt cover you are good to go. Then when the head is on, just line up the cam gears with their notches in the inner timing belt cover, install the timing belt and you are straight. Then its time to install the CPS (Cam Position Sensor). But we will cross that bridge when we get there.

Thats what I was thinking. But the repair manual worded it a little differently. I understand what you mean!

Yep, I built the motor in the camaro. The cam sprocket had a dot and the crank sprocket had a dot. You line them up 6 oclock and 12 o clock and your set. Any timing changes that need to be made I do with my laptop (HPTuners). There is no CPS that has to be moved.

Thanks man, thats what I needed!

[Z'mnypit]

Just a little update. The head is on and torque'd to 78ftlbs with new ARP bolts. The lower intake it on, the upper intake is on, TB , altenator, timing belt, timing cover, valve cover, spark plugs, plug wires, coil packs, coil pack cover, all the vaccum lines on drivers side (hope their right) all are on.

Had to order a waterpump gasket. Ill pick that up today after work. All that I like is the water pump, turbo, fan, thermostat housing and CPS. I should knock all that out today and fire her up tonight.

Ive got everything on the drivers side I can find pluged up, but I found an extra brown plug that looks like and injector plug that was broke, Meaning the wires are there but the plug was on the ground. Ive looked everywhere to see where this would plug but I can find anything. The wires are red and red with blue. Anybody have an idea where this could go? Also I noticed the AC compressor has a brown wire running off of it thats cut and not connected to anything. Where should this go? And last on the drivers side towards the back of the block there are 2 green clear plugs and a white plug with a jumper in it that were just hanging there when I got the car, any idea what these are for? Ill try to get pics of each wire today and post them up so maybe that will help see what Im talking about.

Thanks!

BTW- Ive looked on my other car and dont see any of these wires so I have no clue where they go.

[Z'mnypit]

Ok, everything is complete and put back together. Tried to start it up and nothing. It will just turn over. Im assuming the timing isnt right. The battery is also weak to so that could be some of the problem. Also there is a vacuum line or fresh air tube thats on the bottom of the piping right behind the air filter that I cant find where it goes. Its about 12in long and pre bent so it doesnt go far.

Any thoughts on what to try to get it to start?

[dannydavi]

theres a lil spot for that hose about 12 inches below the dist cap about a 1/4 inch to the left of another vaccum outlet, at least thats where the line coming from my intake hose goes to on my 86.5 n/a. Then we could be talking about two totally different things, i'll take a pic when day light comes around if you still need it.

[IHateHacks]

I'd bet money that you didn't install the CPS correctly. Don't feel bad, I did it too the first time I removed it like 2 years ago.

That brown connector that looks like an injector connector is for one of the VSV's that mount underneath the intake manifold.

That 12" hard vacuum pipe near the air box, the nipple near the motor goes to the BVSV on the top of the thermostat housing, its blue. The nipple that is farthest from the motor goes to the charcoal canister. Both vacuum lines that attach to this prebent hard pipe are about 16" long, maybe shorter.

Now that you already turned the motor over and installed the upper timing belt cover, finding the correct TDC is going to be slightly hard unless you drop the coolant and take the thermostat housing off to take the upper timing belt cover off to line the notches up with the cam marks. I hope you can understand what I just said. Only other way to find the correct TDC without dropping the coolant and taking the thermostat housing off, is to take the No.1 cylinders spark plug out and turn the crank with a rachet and when the crank nears the 0 mark on the lower timing belt cover listen to how much air comes out of the spark plug hole, if you hear a rush of air come out you are on TDC of the compressions stroke (all valves closed) if you dont hear any air come out you are on TDC of the exhaust stroke (exhaust valves open, air is escaping out of the valves instead of the spark plug hole). I suggest just dropping the coolant and lining the cams up.

Now, when you find the correct TDC, you have to install the CPS a certain way. I think its page IG-22 in the TSRM. Pretty much, when the CPS is installed correctly the rotor is about 1/2" to the right of the top pickup coil. I can post a picture if you need it. The TSRM explains how to line the drilled mark on the CPS shaft with the groove on the CPS housing which will line the rotor tip exactly with the top pickup coil. It's really not that hard, let me know if you need a more through explanation with pics.

Good luck.

[Z'mnypit]

Originally Posted by IHateHacks

I'd bet money that you didn't install the CPS correctly. Don't feel bad, I did it too the first time I removed it like 2 years ago.

That was it, pulled it out and realigned and it started right up. SO thats fixed.

Originally Posted by IHateHacks

That brown connector that looks like an injector connector is for one of the VSV's that mount underneath the intake manifold.

I couldve swore I plugged that up, I checked and there isnt anything else left to plug up. Could it be the IAT sensor? I have an ses for that.

Originally Posted by IHateHacks

That 12" hard vacuum pipe near the air box, the nipple near the motor goes to the BVSV on the top of the thermostat housing, its blue. The nipple that is farthest from the motor goes to the charcoal canister. Both vacuum lines that attach to this prebent hard pipe are about 16" long, maybe shorter.

I got that fixed, it actually went right behind the power steering pump.

Originally Posted by IHateHacks

Now that you already turned the motor over and installed the upper timing belt cover, finding the correct TDC is going to be slightly hard unless you drop the coolant and take the thermostat housing off to take the upper timing belt cover off to line the notches up with the cam marks. I hope you can understand what I just said. Only other way to find the correct TDC without dropping the coolant and taking the thermostat housing off, is to take the No.1 cylinders spark plug out and turn the crank with a rachet and when the crank nears the 0 mark on the lower timing belt cover listen to how much air comes out of the spark plug hole, if you hear a rush of air come out you are on TDC of the compressions stroke (all valves closed) if you dont hear any air come out you are on TDC of the exhaust stroke (exhaust valves open, air is escaping out of the valves instead of the spark plug hole). I suggest just dropping the coolant and lining the cams up.

Now, when you find the correct TDC, you have to install the CPS a certain way. I think its page IG-22 in the TSRM. Pretty much, when the CPS is installed correctly the rotor is about 1/2" to the right of the top pickup coil. I can post a picture if you need it. The TSRM explains how to line the drilled mark on the CPS shaft with the groove on the CPS housing which will line the rotor tip exactly with the top pickup coil. It's really not that hard, let me know if you need a more through explanation with pics.

Good luck.

Other then that, the car ran real good all day. Until I washed underneath the hood. Now it spits, spuuters, down on power and it gurggles like its overheating but according to the temp guage its not over heating. So im not sure what going on.

Also after the first oil change, I now have a slight knock under load. Not loud, and not always there. Im hopeing that its something loose.

Got 3 ses codes, 21,34,52 One is MAF, one is knock sensor and the other is the IAT so its not to bad I dont guess.

Im going to try and take it my uncle tommorow and see what he thinks. Hes a head mechanic at a local toyota dealership. Also, the boost gauge is only showing like 6psi, I installed two washers (.025) behind the wastegate so I thought it should be around 10psi or so. Is this a timing issue? All Ive adjusted it basically the CPS just so the car will idle.

Im starting to see the light, Or so I thought. Hopefully by tommorow it will be up to par.

Thanks!

[Z'mnypit]

Messed with the car all day and it still isnt right. The plugs had water on them so I cleaned all the wires, and water. Swapped the plugs and still acting stupid. It will start up fine, idle fine but spit and sputter at 2200-2500rpm. It wnat rev any higher then 2500rpm. I dont know whats up. I guess something is still wet. I pulled the hood and just going to let it sit outside all day tommorow. Any ideas?

[IHateHacks]

Listen to what the ecu is telling you, your MAF is malfunctioning. You can test it with a multimeter, but if its throwing a code and its running like that, its a safe bet that's the problem. Plus the IAT sensor is an integral part of the MAF.

Only other thing I can think of is a clogged cat.

You said you have 2 turbo supras, so swap out the MAF.

Did you set base ignition timing to 10 degrees BTDC? Do you know how to disable the electronic advance to be able to set base ignition timing? If not, just ask I'd be more than happy to assist you.

Slight knock under load eh? *Cough* rod bearings....*Cough*

[Z'mnypit]

Originally Posted by IHateHacks

Listen to what the ecu is telling you, your MAF is malfunctioning. You can test it with a multimeter, but if its throwing a code and its running like that, its a safe bet that's the problem. Plus the IAT sensor is an integral part of the MAF.

I thought about that, but then again its thrown that code since the day Ive started the car and it ran fine all day until I washed under the hood. What kind of voltage should I be seeing so I can test it today?

Originally Posted by IHateHacks

Only other thing I can think of is a clogged cat..

I know the cat is clogged, I had planned on putting it on the lift sunday to pull it and knock it out. But I couldnt ever get it to run right to make it to my shop. You can hear it stopped up. It sounds like a leak in the cat.

Originally Posted by IHateHacks

You said you have 2 turbo supras, so swap out the MAF.

Tried that also, the other car is missing the hole airbox pipe, so there is no maf there.

Originally Posted by IHateHacks

Did you set base ignition timing to 10 degrees BTDC? Do you know how to disable the electronic advance to be able to set base ignition timing? If not, just ask I'd be more than happy to assist you.

Correct the timing is set. Aligned all marks TDC then adjusted the CPS to 11* while jumping the two terminals T & E.

Originally Posted by IHateHacks

Slight knock under load eh? *Cough* rod bearings....*Cough*

Oh lord, its a faint knock. Oil pressure looks good but its defiantly a possibility after seeing all the water Ive drained out of this thing. Looks like Ill be pulling the motor from the donor car and start building it up. Until the day the other dies.

Kinda starting to regret buying these cars. Seems like its always going to be something.