acceleration issues and exhaust leaking

zby67 · 08-19-2010, 02:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cre

It does. Depending on how it shifted it can drastically increase engine heat OR it can drastically increase exhaust temps (if it's the exhaust cam); If it's the intake cam it can cause the intake valves to close too soon, choking the engine; or it can close it too late allowing a pulse to disrupt the incoming airflow, again choking the engine but in a very different way.

And quit whining about not having a computer to plug into the car... we're all about Atari here boy!

lol Atari is fun makes things interesting. ok and yes both cams moved when we went to tighten the belt. now how much damage could happen if i cant get to it. i drive 20 or so miles to work all this week. also what is that tool called that keeps the cams in place well you tighten the belt. im only asking cause i dont see and hole to put a punch into to keep them from moving.

also many thanks to all the help!

Green7mgte · 08-19-2010, 03:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zby67

what is that tool called that keeps the cams in place well you tighten the belt. im only asking cause i dont see and hole to put a punch into to keep them from moving.
!

eh never did the timing on mine yet.. about to tackle a new CPS o ring this week...

how about a long breaker bar?

zby67 · 08-19-2010, 04:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Green7mgte

eh never did the timing on mine yet.. about to tackle a new CPS o ring this week...

how about a long breaker bar?

never thought of just putting a socet on and have some one hold it well tightening belt...

btwilson86 · 08-19-2010, 06:00 AM

Everytime I messed with my timing belt, I pulled all slack out of the belt on the intake side, slipped the belt onto the gears (with them aligned properly), then let the tensioner take out all of the slack in the belt. Doing it this way allows all belt slack to be between the exhaust cam gear and crankshaft timing gear, meaning nothing will move while tensioning the belt.

Don't know if that's the right way to do things, but it's worked great for me and keeps it as a 1 man job

Green7mgte · 08-19-2010, 03:16 PM

mm good post.

zby67 · 08-19-2010, 05:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by btwilson86

Everytime I messed with my timing belt, I pulled all slack out of the belt on the intake side, slipped the belt onto the gears (with them aligned properly), then let the tensioner take out all of the slack in the belt. Doing it this way allows all belt slack to be between the exhaust cam gear and crankshaft timing gear, meaning nothing will move while tensioning the belt.

Don't know if that's the right way to do things, but it's worked great for me and keeps it as a 1 man job

thank you. ill try this idea tomorrow before i go into work. also can you turn the cams by hand? and what kind of damage could happen driving her with the cams one notch off? i was told i can bend the pistons and or blow valves and i dont want to do that. way to much money to fix.

Green7mgte · 08-19-2010, 06:43 PM

shitty idle.. poor acceleration. all the things that your experiencing now.
see above for explanation on what the cams do..

Quote:

Originally Posted by cre

It does. Depending on how it shifted it can drastically increase engine heat OR it can drastically increase exhaust temps (if it's the exhaust cam); If it's the intake cam it can cause the intake valves to close too soon, choking the engine; or it can close it too late allowing a pulse to disrupt the incoming airflow, again choking the engine but in a very different way.
!

Quote:

Originally Posted by btwilson86

being out of alignment can cause the vehicle to not spark in time. If the spark happens too early or too late, it will cause the vehicle to not fire.

wilson is talking about the cps.
but moral of the story is.. IF things arent TDC and your timing is off.. you will have shitty engine proformance.. + hazard

cre · 08-20-2010, 12:05 AM

You can stop the cams from spinning by just putting a 10mm socket on one of the rear timing belt cover's bolts (one of the four behind the cam gears) and rotate until one of the spokes binds on the socket/extension. Have someone hold it in place if you can't work with a wrench in each hand (sissy.).

zby67 · 08-29-2010, 05:17 AM

ok she is back up and running!!!! i bought new rear shocks to be put in next paycheck and will be fixing an oil leak behind the cams at the same time prob even flushing out the trany

cre · 08-20-2010, 12:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by btwilson86

Everytime I messed with my timing belt, I pulled all slack out of the belt on the intake side, slipped the belt onto the gears (with them aligned properly), then let the tensioner take out all of the slack in the belt. Doing it this way allows all belt slack to be between the exhaust cam gear and crankshaft timing gear, meaning nothing will move while tensioning the belt.

Don't know if that's the right way to do things, but it's worked great for me and keeps it as a 1 man job

Turn the crank one full rotation (DO NOT ROTATE VIA THE CAMS) to move any excess slack to the position between crank and exhaust cam.

08-19-2010, 06:00 AM	#4
btwilson86 Super Moderator Join Date: May 2007 Location: Billings, Montana Posts: 1,034	Everytime I messed with my timing belt, I pulled all slack out of the belt on the intake side, slipped the belt onto the gears (with them aligned properly), then let the tensioner take out all of the slack in the belt. Doing it this way allows all belt slack to be between the exhaust cam gear and crankshaft timing gear, meaning nothing will move while tensioning the belt. Don't know if that's the right way to do things, but it's worked great for me and keeps it as a 1 man job __________________ 1989 7MGTE R154 Targa Top White Package w/Blue Interior Driftmotion 57trim CT26, Upgraded Intercooler, 2.25" Hard Pipes, 3" Turbo Back Exhaust with Test Pipe, HKS VPC w/GM 3 bar MAP sensor, APEXi S-AFC, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, ProSport EVO Series Boost / Fuel Pressure / AFR gauges, Lotek a Pillar Gauge Pod, HKS Type 0 Turbo Timer, Eibach Lowering Springs, Tokico Illumina II TEMS struts, custom powder coated Motegi Racing TrakLite wheels

08-19-2010, 03:16 PM	#5
Green7mgte Supra Forum Moderator Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Green-Ohio Posts: 1,297	mm good post. __________________ 92 Ma71 7mGTE Auto. SafcII Supra FAQ Supra MKIII FAQ Classified Section guidelines :

08-20-2010, 12:05 AM	#8
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	You can stop the cams from spinning by just putting a 10mm socket on one of the rear timing belt cover's bolts (one of the four behind the cam gears) and rotate until one of the spokes binds on the socket/extension. Have someone hold it in place if you can't work with a wrench in each hand (sissy.). __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar --->

08-29-2010, 05:17 AM	#9
zby67 3" Exhaust Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Moving Posts: 85	ok she is back up and running!!!! i bought new rear shocks to be put in next paycheck and will be fixing an oil leak behind the cams at the same time prob even flushing out the trany __________________ 1986.5 MA70 7M-GE 1987 MA70 7M-GE

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