New here had some ?'s

[pwpanas]

Originally Posted by legionlleh

...well i didnt mean it by known issues has they constantly have problems but maybe some common sense things...

Like for example, what kind of common sense things? Imho tearing apart a possibly perfectly good engine is not common sense.

Originally Posted by legionlleh

...i should replace before starting the motor again...

The oil (full synthetic) and coolant (Toyota Red with distilled water and Redline water wetter). Imho, that should be your plan, unless you verify that it must be rebuilt.

Originally Posted by legionlleh

...generally ive rebuilt before a reinstall into a differant chassis....

Doesn't make sense imho. Why rebuild a perfectly good engine, especially one that can handle 850rwhp+?

Originally Posted by legionlleh

...who knows how the previous owner drove it before thats why im opting for a rebuild....

Ok, by why assume the previous owner drove it badly? Maybe it was a doctor just that drove it on weekends, right?

Originally Posted by legionlleh

...and that goes for the turbos too...

Agreed...I doubt the doctor hardly ever got into boost...

Originally Posted by legionlleh

...ill just check for the normal wear and tear too much shaft play turbine condition...

Oh, so now you're going to check the turbos before you rebuild them? Good to hear. Maybe you can do the same with the engine, hmmmm? Perhaps start with compression & leakdown tests?

Originally Posted by legionlleh

...i plan non the less to do this to the engine rebuild new crank bearings rods piston rings...

You're not serious, are you? For what? Oh, and I hope you're not planning to do this with plastigauge. The 2jz-gte's tolerances require a level of precision only available at extremely high-end machine shops. Don't forget this is a 1000hp-capable, 8k+rpm-capable, 3L engine. If you don't mind me asking, have you ever worked on an engine like that? If you want this engine to come out right, I'd strongly recommend that you arrange to have it worked on like you would a Ferrari engine. Seriously. Unless you're sitting on about half a million $+ worth of machine shop tools, I'd strongly recommend you let a professional engine builder do your 2jz-gte shortblock work...that is, IF it actually needs to be rebuilt.

Originally Posted by legionlleh

...check bore...

Do you have a profilometer? Perhaps a align-boring and align-honing machines?

Originally Posted by legionlleh

...contacted some salvage yards to see who can source me a california front clip possibly the entire car it would be nice to pull a rear end out of one hoping to keep the buy under 6 grand

Doubtful you'll find a wrecked Mkiv Supra TT with the entire driveline in good shape for only $6k. Good luck, though.

[legionlleh]

i guess my worrys come from the 7 i had in high school has well fc turbos arent the most reliable also owning v8's generally u do rebuild.

since i got a compression tester may has well. also turn the crank a couple times(always have just figured id let u know i do test that has well). since ive heard time and time again these motors are good to 700+ hp in stock form ill just simply pull its valve cover off and check for cracked valve springs etc has well has the pan to check for bits of metal anything that may indicate a rebuild this seems to be much simpler than my orignal idea and cheaper.

the pan and valve cover gaskets are usually a good idea to replace anyway ive always ended up having to replace them on any car owned except the seven for obvious reasons.

i also doubt the 6k entire driveline deal but ive come across deals such has this time and time again. to bad i cant make a jdm 2jz legal in cali those are much cheaper
like i said though i havent worked on a engine with this amount of tolerances hence why im worried lol no one likes installing a motor that has a issue just to pull it out again id like to drop it in and not have to pull it right after(except during its trial test fits)

also would you use the seafoam product to clean the fuel system after inital start up? ive used it with success in both gastank and to restore compression but what is your take on it?
sorry i ask alot of questions but i like to prepare myself before i undertake swaps to be fully prepared and get the project completed faster and better than if i were to take guess work into it
thanks though good thing i didnt find one this week and start ripping off the heads to take to the machine shop and the block i probably would have found a expensive surprise has well has those turbos being like 3500 from toyota last i talked to someone

[pwpanas]

Originally Posted by legionlleh

i guess my worrys come from the 7 i had in high school has well fc turbos arent the most reliable also owning v8's generally u do rebuild...

If you're interested in my advice, it would be that you should not jump to conclusions about the Mkiv Supra based on your experience with other vehicles. There's a reason the Mkiv Supra Turbo is in such high demand; it comes with a 1000hp-capable drivetrain. Relatively speaking the 7's driveline, as well as most v8s are complete pos's imho.

Originally Posted by legionlleh

...since i got a compression tester may has well. also turn the crank a couple times(always have just figured id let u know i do test that has well). since ive heard time and time again these motors are good to 700+ hp in stock form...

Actually, that's terribly inaccurate and a very sad understatement of it's true capabilities. 700hp is only 595rwhp through a manual tranny, and even less through an auto. The 2jz-gte is good to 850rwhp+, or 1000hp at the crank. Really.

Originally Posted by legionlleh

...ill just simply pull its valve cover off and check for cracked valve springs etc...

Fwiw, I've never seen a 2jz with cracked springs. *shrug*

Originally Posted by legionlleh

...has well has the pan to check for bits of metal anything that may indicate a rebuild...

You're far better off starting with compression & leakdown tests. If those two specs exceed oem specs, you're 99%+ likely 'good to go'.

Originally Posted by legionlleh

...this seems to be much simpler than my orignal idea and cheaper...

It's not just cheaper, it represents a course of action where you're not going to be needlessly throwing away $ for absolutely zero benefit.

Originally Posted by legionlleh

...the pan and valve cover gaskets are usually a good idea to replace anyway ive always ended up having to replace them on any car owned except the seven for obvious reasons....

1) There is no pan gasket. It's form-in-place gasket material that comes in a tube, and its an absolute b*tch to get out of the fine little grooves in the oem aluminum oilpan. In fact, that step is one of the hardest jobs in a shortblock swap.
2) If you replace the cam cover gaskets, be sure to also replace all of the rubber+metal grommets that go on every bolt & nut that hold the cam covers down.

Originally Posted by legionlleh

...i also doubt the 6k entire driveline deal but ive come across deals such has this time and time again....

Yep, and I've come across scammers time and time again too. Again, good luck.

Originally Posted by legionlleh

...like i said though i havent worked on a engine with this amount of tolerances hence why im worried lol...

If you're worried, you definitely need to send it to not just any machine shop, but a very good machine shop, along with the specs from the TSRM.

Originally Posted by legionlleh

...no one likes installing a motor that has a issue just to pull it out again id like to drop it in and not have to pull it right after(except during its trial test fits)...

You'll only get that kind of guarantee if you buy it brand-new from 'yota.

Originally Posted by legionlleh

...also would you use the seafoam product to clean the fuel system after inital start up? ive used it with success in both gastank and to restore compression but what is your take on it?...

1) If your compression is low in a 2jz-gte, it's going to be from a cracked ring land or a busted piston...ain't no sea foam gonna fix that.
2) It might help to ensure your injectors are a bit less dirty, but I'd prefer you send them out to rc engineering for a thorough cleaning & flow balancing.

Originally Posted by legionlleh

...sorry i ask alot of questions but i like to prepare myself before i undertake swaps to be fully prepared and get the project completed faster and better than if i were to take guess work into it

thanks though good thing i didnt find one this week and start ripping off the heads...

You mean head (not heads), right? It's an inline 6.

Originally Posted by legionlleh

...to take to the machine shop and the block i probably would have found a expensive surprise has well has those turbos being like 3500 from toyota last i talked to someone...

Actually they're $2200 each ($4400 in total).