acceleration issues and exhaust leaking

[zby67]

this is ware i see the smoke coming from. also this shield here rattles when i drive.



this has been this way since iv owned the car and was wondering if it is a bad thing? iv cleaned it up afew times but it just comes back so im guessing its a bad thing.



this is the inside of the throttle body. also she fires from cylinder 1. and if it prove its the trans i drove her in L to the store then back home in D she seems to be accelerated better. but then again my last test run she did the same thing then went back to acting up.

also if when i go back and reset the timing how do i keep the cams from turning? theres no hole to put a punch in to hold them in place well tightening the belt.

[Green7mgte]

what did your transmission diagnostic say?
oil in spark plug galley is fixable.
all that oil is an excessive amount of blow by. not that good. possibly one of your main front and main rear oil seals is most likely the culprit for the blow by.

[zby67]

Originally Posted by Green7mgte

what did your transmission diagnostic say?
oil in spark plug galley is fixable.
all that oil is an excessive amount of blow by. not that good. possibly one of your main front and main rear oil seals is most likely the culprit for the blow by.

this would be easyer if i could hook her up to a computer but when reading everything i get ether AT-30 or AT-46. unless the timing being off by one notch really messes up acceleration that much. about a month ago i did a transmission service on her new trans fluid and filter. before the test drive last night she was reading that the trans fluid lvl was ware it was suppose to be when i got home it said it was over now its saying its half full. i just checked it... it could be valve body or primary regulator thats faulty AT-109

[cre]

Originally Posted by zby67

unless the timing being off by one notch really messes up acceleration that much.

It does. Depending on how it shifted it can drastically increase engine heat OR it can drastically increase exhaust temps (if it's the exhaust cam); If it's the intake cam it can cause the intake valves to close too soon, choking the engine; or it can close it too late allowing a pulse to disrupt the incoming airflow, again choking the engine but in a very different way.


And quit whining about not having a computer to plug into the car... we're all about Atari here boy!

[zby67]

Originally Posted by cre

It does. Depending on how it shifted it can drastically increase engine heat OR it can drastically increase exhaust temps (if it's the exhaust cam); If it's the intake cam it can cause the intake valves to close too soon, choking the engine; or it can close it too late allowing a pulse to disrupt the incoming airflow, again choking the engine but in a very different way.


And quit whining about not having a computer to plug into the car... we're all about Atari here boy!

lol Atari is fun makes things interesting. ok and yes both cams moved when we went to tighten the belt. now how much damage could happen if i cant get to it. i drive 20 or so miles to work all this week. also what is that tool called that keeps the cams in place well you tighten the belt. im only asking cause i dont see and hole to put a punch into to keep them from moving.

also many thanks to all the help!

[Green7mgte]

Originally Posted by zby67

what is that tool called that keeps the cams in place well you tighten the belt. im only asking cause i dont see and hole to put a punch into to keep them from moving.
!

eh never did the timing on mine yet.. about to tackle a new CPS o ring this week...

how about a long breaker bar?

[zby67]

Originally Posted by Green7mgte

eh never did the timing on mine yet.. about to tackle a new CPS o ring this week...

how about a long breaker bar?

never thought of just putting a socet on and have some one hold it well tightening belt...

[btwilson86]

Everytime I messed with my timing belt, I pulled all slack out of the belt on the intake side, slipped the belt onto the gears (with them aligned properly), then let the tensioner take out all of the slack in the belt. Doing it this way allows all belt slack to be between the exhaust cam gear and crankshaft timing gear, meaning nothing will move while tensioning the belt.


Don't know if that's the right way to do things, but it's worked great for me and keeps it as a 1 man job

[Green7mgte]

mm good post.

[zby67]

Originally Posted by btwilson86

Everytime I messed with my timing belt, I pulled all slack out of the belt on the intake side, slipped the belt onto the gears (with them aligned properly), then let the tensioner take out all of the slack in the belt. Doing it this way allows all belt slack to be between the exhaust cam gear and crankshaft timing gear, meaning nothing will move while tensioning the belt.


Don't know if that's the right way to do things, but it's worked great for me and keeps it as a 1 man job

thank you. ill try this idea tomorrow before i go into work. also can you turn the cams by hand? and what kind of damage could happen driving her with the cams one notch off? i was told i can bend the pistons and or blow valves and i dont want to do that. way to much money to fix.