Best questions ever. could really use awnsers lol.

[livelaughslide]

Ridicousily hard to relax but that helped.. the head is getting a glass like resurfaceing at the machine shop now. i called and the final spec should be about 116.1 or 115.8 give or take. so i would love more compression and less layers and not to blow 3 houndred ona head gasket.. is 1.2-1.3 good for me? if not what it..

So i guess im going with a bead type from cometic.. thank you VERY VERY MUCH.

So..

the blocks is cast steel or cast iron, unless were in nascar and running aluminum machine shop says chances of it warping are slim and the block has 0 pitting...

But i will check it with a real stright edge and a bright light on one side to see if i see any light but what if there is like minascewel/really redicously small peaks of light...? am i fucked and need to pull it?

now onto lapping i would love to learn wtf it is and were do i get it/borrow it and how to use it.. i really want this to run right, strong and round 10 psi.. give or take. thats it man. and Cre, couldnt be happier that your helping me right now means the world really.

[cre]

Originally Posted by livelaughslide

Ridicousily hard to relax but that helped.. the head is getting a glass like resurfaceing at the machine shop now. i called and the final spec should be about 116.1 or 115.8 give or take. so i would love more compression and less layers and not to blow 3 houndred ona head gasket.. is 1.2-1.3 good for me? if not what it..

116.1? So they're adding material to the head?

Higher compression on a turbo is not generally considered a good thing. Get a gasket sized to keep the stock CR or thicker and add more boost... the minor bump in CR isn't going to gain you any noticeable increase in power, but the 5 extra psi of boost you'd otherwise have room for would.

Originally Posted by livelaughslide

the blocks is cast steel or cast iron, unless were in nascar and running aluminum machine shop says chances of it warping are slim

A cast iron block that's seen over 20 years of service??? NO, they warp more than enough to be out of spec and cause major sealing issues... it doesn't take much. Why do I even bother if people aren't going to listen... hell read the damn manual.

Originally Posted by livelaughslide

But i will check it with a real stright edge and a bright light on one side to see if i see any light but what if there is like minascewel/really redicously small peaks of light...? am i fucked and need to pull it?

Do as I said... get a MACHINIST straight edge (it's a precision tool) and use feelers to check the gaps (there WILL be gaps); If it's out of spec, pull it out or if it's not too bad go with a composite HG.

Originally Posted by livelaughslide

now onto lapping i would love to learn wtf it is and were do i get it/borrow it and how to use it.. i really want this to run right, strong and round 10 psi.. give or take. thats it man. and Cre, couldnt be happier that your helping me right now means the world really.

I'll post more info about lapping the tools later, I've got to head out right now.

[livelaughslide]

damn... im sorry man. after seeing what you quoted i sound like a kid with a car he has no intent for.

im not thick headed just ina case were i wanna hear it'l be okay.. its a remorse issue but i want to apoligize.

ive seen you help out alot of people and for you to go out of your way for me right now is nothing but godly.

i think ill just go with a nice composite thats good and thick and arp suds or bolts.. what ever you prefer.

And i will listen and not backfire everything you say.. im sorry man.

[cre]

Meh, if you don't trust something that's all good.... I'm just touchy from time to time; My wife and my father in law both have this crap habit of asking advice and then immediately replying with reasons why they can't do it or it won't work or they already got the answer from someone else and it was the opposite... Bugs the shit out of me... if you're sure you know what's up, don't ask.

Anyway, if the block is within specs a good lapping will bring it closer and get the finish where you need for a Cometic... If you're going to try this I recommend using studs over bolts, you get more accurate torque and more clamping force... actually, for the extra $20 studs are generally the better choice, but you'll need to remove the car's hood to drop the head down over them.

And make sure you don't forget to chase the threads in the block with a tap!!!! And as mentioned before, the RTV at the lower timing plate/block union!!!

A precision lapping plate is a thick, HEAVY plate of steel that's been machined within very tight standards. Many have two serviceable sides; one is smooth while the other has a cross hatch pattern cut into it. The smooth side is used for fine finishing and the cut side for quickly taking down material. When lapping you simply rub some of the lapping compound into the plate, then set the plate down on the deck. You move the plate in small figure 8's as you move from the front of the block to the back, make sure to move at a consistent pace and not to over work any one area. Let the block move a couple inches past the edge of the block when you reach the ends to avoid creating a concave surface. DO NOT PUSH DOWN ON THE PLATE!!! You'll get warn out enough from sliding the pate around as it is and pressing on the plate just increases the likeliness of making things uneven... let the plate own weight do the work.

Do prevent the abrasive compound from entering the engine move the crankshaft so none of the pistons are at the top; now fill them up with Crisco (no, I'm not joking). Then take a LOT of foam ear plugs and use a sewing needle to add a pull string to each. Insert the ear plugs into the oil and water passages so there's about 1/8" to 1/4" of space above them and add a little Crisco to fill the top there too. Now, you may lap away and the Crisco will collect the detritus and spent compound... It'll help lubricate the plate a little too, but you'll still want to add a little lightweight oil here and there while lapping. I've heard from people I really trust that it's best to bed the compound into the plate by rubbing it in with some stiff cardboard first.

I'll have to look up the grits that are recommended for what you're doing, but it's going to vary a bit depending on how off the deck is.

Oh, also the larger the plate the closer to flat it will cut the deck.

One thing you need to remember to do is keep checking the deck with a flat edge!!!!

I think you can get a 12" x 12" for around $100... check McMaster Carr.

Should I add that to the FAQ?

[livelaughslide]

I'd say so. seeing as heads are coming off our 7m's more then you heard your bov in your life time. Definitly have the next two days off and here in florida the weather should be great (knock on wood. damn rain) and a "real" stright edge will be purched long with a lapping tool due to i just picked up another mklll shell with an r154 (wifes piiiiissssed). before i even jack the hood struts from it first things first and i will be talking to you tomarrow about how F@%KED i am because my block is a banana knowing my luck.

and when i take my turbo cams out my old head ill besure to use your wonderful link and make sure there even turbo cams for one thing. lol.


Thanks again sir and good luck with the never ending battle between your girl and her dad lol.

[cajuncharger]

And make sure you don't forget to chase the threads in the block with a tap!!!! And as mentioned before, the RTV at the lower timing plate/block union!!!


When you say "chase the treads" do you mean to run a tap where the bolt would normally go before installation? And why is this?

Also, is RTV a gasket making type substance?

I'm a self-taught shade tree kind of guy and I'm planning on tackling a head gasket (I think) issue with a Supra I inherited. I'm a pretty handy dude but I've never done a job that big before. Are there any more tips you might have for me?

Thanks a Bunch,
Bob

[cre]

Yes and Yes.... yes to the tap and yes RTV = Room temperature vulcanizing... generally the acronym is used in reference to silicone gasket compound, aka FIPG (Form In Place Gasket).

Originally Posted by cajuncharger

I'm a self-taught shade tree kind of guy and I'm planning on tackling a head gasket (I think) issue with a Supra I inherited. I'm a pretty handy dude but I've never done a job that big before. Are there any more tips you might have for me?

Follow the TSRM (link posted above) EXACTLY (except for the head bolt torque spec) and research the project here on the forum... a few people have been through this very recently and there's a lot of good and important material covered in their threads.

[cre]

Okay, that'll be enough for today. I'm going to prune this thread and close it.