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Meh, if you don't trust something that's all good.... I'm just touchy from time to time; My wife and my father in law both have this crap habit of asking advice and then immediately replying with reasons why they can't do it or it won't work or they already got the answer from someone else and it was the opposite... Bugs the shit out of me... if you're sure you know what's up, don't ask.

Anyway, if the block is within specs a good lapping will bring it closer and get the finish where you need for a Cometic... If you're going to try this I recommend using studs over bolts, you get more accurate torque and more clamping force... actually, for the extra $20 studs are generally the better choice, but you'll need to remove the car's hood to drop the head down over them.

And make sure you don't forget to chase the threads in the block with a tap!!!! And as mentioned before, the RTV at the lower timing plate/block union!!!

A precision lapping plate is a thick, HEAVY plate of steel that's been machined within very tight standards. Many have two serviceable sides; one is smooth while the other has a cross hatch pattern cut into it. The smooth side is used for fine finishing and the cut side for quickly taking down material. When lapping you simply rub some of the lapping compound into the plate, then set the plate down on the deck. You move the plate in small figure 8's as you move from the front of the block to the back, make sure to move at a consistent pace and not to over work any one area. Let the block move a couple inches past the edge of the block when you reach the ends to avoid creating a concave surface. DO NOT PUSH DOWN ON THE PLATE!!! You'll get warn out enough from sliding the pate around as it is and pressing on the plate just increases the likeliness of making things uneven... let the plate own weight do the work.

Do prevent the abrasive compound from entering the engine move the crankshaft so none of the pistons are at the top; now fill them up with Crisco (no, I'm not joking). Then take a LOT of foam ear plugs and use a sewing needle to add a pull string to each. Insert the ear plugs into the oil and water passages so there's about 1/8" to 1/4" of space above them and add a little Crisco to fill the top there too. Now, you may lap away and the Crisco will collect the detritus and spent compound... It'll help lubricate the plate a little too, but you'll still want to add a little lightweight oil here and there while lapping. I've heard from people I really trust that it's best to bed the compound into the plate by rubbing it in with some stiff cardboard first.

I'll have to look up the grits that are recommended for what you're doing, but it's going to vary a bit depending on how off the deck is.

Oh, also the larger the plate the closer to flat it will cut the deck.

One thing you need to remember to do is keep checking the deck with a flat edge!!!!

I think you can get a 12" x 12" for around $100... check McMaster Carr.

Should I add that to the FAQ?