Looking to buy supra

[chuan01]

just one more question...sorry i seem to keep thinking of questions after i've made a post

roughly how much more does it cost to do the modifications to a non-turbo? because i find that the cost of a non-turbo 2JZ is a lot cheaper than the turboed 2JZ. what's required to put turbos on a non-turbo? new pipes? and IF i have made the modifications, will the 5-speed gearbox make much difference compared to the RZ's 6-speed?

and another thing, i want to put a decent sound system in the car, but having looked at the boot space, i'm not exactly sure how i can fit a sub and amp in. any ideas?

thanks heaps for your replies

[pwpanas]

Originally Posted by chuan01

...also, i'm lookin at spending maybe $20k on mods after i've bought the car. any tips on what mods would optimize my car's performance and handling? (i dont want the car to be any more powerful than 500HP)...

Performance:

1. Do you mean 500hp or 500rwhp?
2. If you're talking about 500hp at the crank, then you won't need $20k in mods...you'll just need a full set of 'bpu' modifications, a front mount intercooler, a fuel controller, cam gears, and some race fuel.
3. If you're talking about 500rwhp reliably, then you'll need a single turbo system. If you want to run it on pump gas, I'd recommend a meth+water injection system as well. For 500rwhp you'll also need a new clutch (or transmission upgrades if it's an auto).

Handling:
Actually, the oem coilovers are excellent. The oem suspension actually roadraces just fine, and has done VERY well in circuits such as OLOA. 'Keepin' it real' here, most guys put coilovers or springs on their Supras because they think it looks 'cool' to have the car lowered. If you want to look cool, then that's fine. If you want the car to perform, the un-lowered mkiv tt oem suspension can outperform a lowered mkiv tt in many roadrace driving conditions. Of course, the oem suspension will handle most street driving situations (eg potholes & speed bumps) much better too.

If, after aggressively roadracing your Mkiv Supra TT on a real roadrace track, you find the suspension a bit mushy, all you need to do is replace the shocks (not the springs) with a set of KYB/AGXs. Again, I'd recommend you drive the oem suspension first, before you decide to make that change, because (again) the oem jza80 tt suspension is actually a great setup.

If you are extremely serious about competing at roadracing, then of course a full set of integrated, adjustable coilovers and sway bars can be beneficial. Also note that this type of extreme suspension upgrade can make your Supra MUCH less friendly for street driving. In short, if you want your girlfriend's fillings to fall out of her teeth on the way to the movie theater, then go ahead and install a full set of race coilovers the same day you purchase your Supra.

General Tip:
Lastly, be sure to set aside a good chunk of that $20K you mentioned for upgrades...in order to do full, proper maintenance on the car. Who knows what might be wrong with it if you purchase it used, especially if it has higher mileage. It might need a full 60K maintenance, including a new timing belt. It might need new coilpacks or a new harmonic dampener. Hell, a full set of good z-rated tires can run over $1K usd. This car is much more like a Porsche/Z06/Ferrari/Viper to maintain properly (i.e. don't budget your maintenance $ for the car like it's a Camry/Corolla/Celica/etc.)

Originally Posted by chuan01

...one question though, the stock turbos can handle the 500hp right?

500hp yes, but not 500rwhp.

Originally Posted by chuan01

...roughly how much more does it cost to do the modifications to a non-turbo? because i find that the cost of a non-turbo 2JZ is a lot cheaper than the turboed 2JZ...

There are many, many, many differences between the turbo and non-turbo Mkiv Supra. Not only is the engine completely different (head is completely different, and so is the ignition system, the intake & throttle body, injectors, ecu, compression ratio, pistons, oil squirters in the block, etc., etc.)...so is the entire braking system/abs, ecu, transmission, suspension (shocks, springs, sway bars), differential, etc. etc. Most people I know that have done a detailed cost comparison have concluded that it's MUCH cheaper to purchase a TT Mkiv to begin with, rather than start with a normally-aspirated (non-turbo, a.k.a. "N/A") and then do the conversion. In other words, if all you do is add a turbo, you'll end up a lot of horsepower but an overall vehicle with no driveline components or brakes to handle that increased horsepower level.

Originally Posted by chuan01

...what's required to put turbos on a non-turbo? new pipes?...

Rofl. You'd need a >>>complete<<< N/A-T conversion kit, like this one:
http://www.boostlogic.com/parts/supr...oKitStage2.htm

Originally Posted by chuan01

...and IF i have made the modifications, will the 5-speed gearbox make much difference compared to the RZ's 6-speed?...

Generally yes. The 6spd is a much stronger gearbox...at least 50% tougher than the 5spd. The unmodified oem 6spd has held over 1400rwhp on the dyno, and has been drag raced into the 8s in the 1/4!!! ...compare this with an estimated 575rwhp or so as the generally accepted estimated reliable hp max for the 5spd.

Originally Posted by chuan01

...and another thing, i want to put a decent sound system in the car, but having looked at the boot space, i'm not exactly sure how i can fit a sub and amp in. any ideas?...

If you permanently remove the spare tire, fitting a nice sub & amp is no problem at all. Alternatively, one company I know of sells a drop-in sub box replacement:
http://www.wickedcas.com/gallery/mai...gicboxes/mkiv/

[chuan01]

hey guys, thanks heaps for the posts. heaps of help

originally lookin at 500hp at the wheels. but i guess i'll see how well i can handle the car first before i increase power =P but i definitely do not want anything more, otherwise i mite kill myself lol and thanks for the info on differences between the RZ and SZ. i tried looking online for specs, but didn't find anything of any use. looks like the decisions been made then. RZ it is!! w00t

[pwpanas]

Originally Posted by chuan01

...originally lookin at 500hp at the wheels...

Again, that means you'll need a single turbo system. If you want to run it on pump gas, I'd recommend a meth+water injection system as well. For 500rwhp you'll also need a new clutch (or transmission upgrades if it's an auto).

Originally Posted by chuan01

...but i guess i'll see how well i can handle the car first before i increase power...

Great plan!

Originally Posted by chuan01

...but i definitely do not want anything more, otherwise i mite kill myself...

Actually, you could easily hurt yourself with 400rwhp. If you're at all doubtful about your driving abilities, I'd strongly recommend you consider driver training at your local roadrace track. This could be the most cost-effective and important automotive investment you ever make.

Originally Posted by chuan01

...and thanks for the info on differences between the RZ and SZ. i tried looking online for specs, but didn't find anything of any use. looks like the decisions been made then. RZ it is!! w00t

Actually, the info was in this forum all along. Please take a look at this 'stickied' thread:
http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...ead.php?t=6947

Either way, I'm glad the info was helpful.

[chuan01]

Originally Posted by pwpanas

Again, that means you'll need a single turbo system. If you want to run it on pump gas, I'd recommend a meth+water injection system as well. For 500rwhp you'll also need a new clutch (or transmission upgrades if it's an auto).
Great plan!Actually, you could easily hurt yourself with 400rwhp. If you're at all doubtful about your driving abilities, I'd strongly recommend you consider driver training at your local roadrace track. This could be the most cost-effective and important automotive investment you ever make.
Actually, the info was in this forum all along. Please take a look at this 'stickied' thread:
http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...ead.php?t=6947

Either way, I'm glad the info was helpful.

yeh, like i said, i'll gradually do mods to the car, and see how well i can handle the power. definitely will take the driver training. i'd like to better my driving skills so that i can get the most out of my car.

i noticed on a lot of online videos, that supra's tend to be slower than skylines off a standing start (because of the skyline's AWD) despite having more power. is there any way that's relatively low-cost to better the supra's grip and initial acceleration? i noticed you have a '94 supra. how much power does yours run? some of my friends have been egging me to get a skyline instead, but i prefer the look of the supra. any info on advantages supra has over skylines? (sorry if these posts are troublesome...i'm still pretty new to cars and modifications)

[pwpanas]

Originally Posted by chuan01

...is there any way that's relatively low-cost to better the supra's grip and initial acceleration?...

Yep - absolutely no problem at all. I've got just one word for you, Chuan: slicks. There are lots of MKIVs in the 9s in the 1/4 mile, quite a few in the 8s, and even a few in the 7s...and most of these Supras are running slicks. The best 60' times are barely over 1 second...I honestly doubt that very many (if any at all) Skylines could top that. In other words, with a single turbo, a set of slicks, and maybe a small shot of nos or a two-step rev limiter, you'll be well prepared to embarrass/destroy anything from a dead stop.

Originally Posted by chuan01

...i noticed you have a '94 supra. how much power does yours run?...

About 800rwhp now, but my mods should support well over 1000rwhp. I've got to get off my butt and get it tuned for high boost. Please feel free to email me if you'd like more info or pics.

Originally Posted by chuan01

...some of my friends have been egging me to get a skyline instead, but i prefer the look of the supra. any info on advantages supra has over skylines?

Sure. AWD is generally slower around a roadrace course, with a good driver. Also, AWD can be more expensive to maintain than a rwd car. Of course, I agree with you 100% about the looks - imho the skyline looks like a sedan.

[chuan01]

by the way, what does 500hp at the crank translate to at the wheels? how much power would be lost?

[j3pz]

rule of thumb is 15% is lost through the drivetrain, but i really wouldnt trust that lol... so .15*500... carry the 7... um whats that? 425? id say prolly more than that though

[pwpanas]

Originally Posted by chuan01

by the way, what does 500hp at the crank translate to at the wheels? how much power would be lost?

It depends if you have a manual tranny or an auto. As j3pz posted, 15% is the correct figure for a manual tranny, but an auto tranny with oem torque converter is closer to 20%. With a very high stall torque converter, a 'built' auto tranny's driveline losses can be more than 30%. For example, a high-stall torque converter & auto tranny could take your 500hp at the crank down to as little as 350rwhp.