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Old 05-23-2011, 08:50 PM   #11
chezpo0f
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Well, does anyone know how easy it is to get to the neutral start switch? I'd like to start checking for power there. In other words... Can I get to it from the top under the shifter console or am I gonna have to pull the transmission lol? If that's the case i'll definitely start at the ignition switch and work my way down =p

I'll check my chilton book when I get home... but who knows how helpful that will be, getting excited at work with a few new ideas to get this baby running again

Thanks
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Old 05-23-2011, 10:18 PM   #12
El Supracabras
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Should be on the trans wherever the shifter linkage is. Follow the cable. Never had a problem w/ one on a supra but pretty sure its easy enough to get at with the car jacked up off the ground. Wire colors are on the schematic provided by btwilson86 earlier. Your manual should have a decent enough explanation of how to test it.
I would suggest to check for voltage at the starter solenoid first while someone else turns the key to start. This will eliminate the starter as the problem w/o having to remove it. If there is adequate voltage there, the starter may be defective and would need further testing. If no voltage there, move back to the neutral switch check for voltage going into the switch,
if no voltage there, move back to the relay check for voltage at the relay, then the ignition switch etc. etc. follow the schematic backwards from the starter to the battery.
When you find a component (that is in the correct position to) receiving voltage but NOT letting it out and you are sure you have checked it properly, you have found a problem. Repair it and check again. If you find voltage going in AND coming out properly but not making it to the next component down the line you have found a bad wire. Locate,repair and check again.
The theft deterrent system opens the ground to the starter relay. If you still think it is the problem you can bypass it completely by cutting the ground wire from the relay and grounding the relay straight to the chassis. This removes the starter cut out from the system completely (watch where you park).

Boy, how many posts do I need to make to not be stock on my avitard anymore? Go into it armed with the right info and attitude and you will driving it again in no time. Happy headaches!
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Old 05-23-2011, 10:19 PM   #13
btwilson86
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You should be able to check the neutral start switch from it's electrical connectors. They're on the intake side of the engine, running down next to the firewall. The switch itself isn't very difficult to remove, the exhaust pipe may get in the way though (it's been a long time since I removed one)
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Old 05-24-2011, 03:55 PM   #14
interested!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chezpo0f View Post
Hey guys, I've been trolling around here for a few years now since I first got my Mkiii. I couldn't believe it when I found it, and loved it for about a year until it quit turning over... Been sitting up over a year now and it's killing me. So, I've been reading all these other posts with the same problem and I just can't find an answer that makes sense - neither have I paid anyone to come try their magic at it.

This is what I HAVE tried -

Replaced starter
Replaced alternator
Replaced battery
Swapped out Starter Relay
Tried starting in neutral
Tried resetting security by hooking up battery while key is on, locking and unlocking both doors and trunk with key.

Now, I don't believe its a starter or starter cable problem because.... the ECT box is what clicks, not the solenoid. I pulled the cover off of the ECT today and just found a pcb with plenty of resistors/transistors but no relays or anything that looked like it could be clicking... Does anyone know if there may be another relay or fuse Behind the ECT in that passenger kick panel? Anyway, before I keep going on for days i'm going to stop and ask for ANY SUGGESTIONS, THANKS!

1990 Mk3 Supra
completely stock
1985 Celica GT
stock minus .20 over-sized pistons
Hi!
clicking? - simple continuity check: remove the wire that goes to the starter soleniod and connect it to a 12 volt bulb and connect this bulb to earth , then try and " start " car by turning the key , this bulb should light-up, if it does , then the power is there to try the next step .
With everything switched off --fit a long heavy duty wire to the starter where the old wire was removed from ,-bit of a sod! and with the car in neutral (especially important for a manual drive ) , flick the other end over the live ( plus) battery post -the starter solenoid should activate and turn the starter , this will prove the starter is working ( no-need to remove for further checks -it's ok!) , now : using the original wire , and using the relay diagram ( the switch is the relay !!!!! )-fit a 40 amp relay between the starter and the battery using the heavy duty wire - this original wire will now only be required to activate the relay internal bridge to supply a higher amperage directly from the battery straight to the starter - I found this trick earlier in this forum somewhere --BRILLIANT CURE - Many Thanks !!!
If the starter does not work then you may need to replace the brushes, especially if the starter is very old .but do the relay mod anyway!

Last edited by interested!; 05-24-2011 at 04:02 PM. Reason: add further comment
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Old 07-02-2011, 08:55 PM   #15
MisterMk3
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Hey Im 17 and I'm kind of a newbie. I have an 88 N/a 5spd that has the same issue. The car wont crank! I tried recharging the battery but that didn't help. I think its my starter because there had been a couple times where I had to keep the key on "start", wait 5 seconds then it would start kicking and turn on just fine. Now it wont even kick. All my lights turn on and the car has power but the car simply wont crank. Any help?
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Old 07-03-2011, 12:38 PM   #16
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Checking Codes
http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...iagnostic.html
Checking TSRM
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...3/default.aspx

Personally i found a wiring nightmare when i relocated my battery.... Check out the wires leading to starter/alternator and fuse box

Basically there were several points of failure where someone decided it was a good idea to wire 8 guage into a 12 guage into a 14 guage and run it to the starter....
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