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Old 02-21-2010, 08:30 PM   #1
Cameroonski
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Default I've got no power! :(

Here's my situation. I was driving one day in my 1986.5 non-turbo, and i did a 180 turn. Smart me, i didn't put the clutch in all the way. So clutch was already going and i killed it. So i replaced the clutch, and put in an oil pump while i was in there (fyi I lifted the engine several inches to get the pan out). I also cleared out the Cat. So I get it all back together and im excited but then i had hardly any power (less then my 4 cylinder cherokee)! Here's what ive tested.

I replaced the distributor cap and rotor. I checked the timing, it was right. Ran diagnosis but it said everything is ok. Checked vacuum lines, everything seems fine. It has new wires and hoses.

So it seems like it has to be fuel pressure, bad spark plug, compression, or something else im not thinking about. But none of these really make since to me because it had all the power before i killed the clutch. So im wondering what happened in between killing the clutch and putting in oil pump and new clutch.

Please Help!
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Old 02-22-2010, 04:34 AM   #2
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See if you have any codes first. When you pulled the motor up did you disconnect any sensors like the knock sensor. It could be something pretty simple. Also with a new clutch make sure you do a break in, it might possibly be the clutch with the loss of power feeling.
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Old 02-22-2010, 01:41 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by suprabahamut View Post
See if you have any codes first. When you pulled the motor up did you disconnect any sensors like the knock sensor. It could be something pretty simple. Also with a new clutch make sure you do a break in, it might possibly be the clutch with the loss of power feeling.
yes i checked it for codes and it said everything was normal. And yes I havent gone over 3500 rpm, mostly shifting at 2500. But that is not the problem unless something really weird is happening with the clutch. Because really, i have hardly any power. And where is the knock sensor? Ive checked everything several times to see if it was something simple like that, and am still kinda hoping it will be so it can be easily fixed, but ive looked over all the lines and wired multiple times.
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Old 02-22-2010, 04:45 PM   #4
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You said you checked your timing... Are you talking about your valve timing or ignition timing or both?
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Old 02-22-2010, 04:59 PM   #5
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I had something similar... when I could get the car to start, she'd idle at 400~500 rpm before jolting soo hard I shut her off, or she died out fairly quickly on her own.. didn't matter how much gas I gave either, the rpm's stayed pretty constant. Mine is an auto, so I doubt I'd even have gotten her to turn over if I were driving clutch. At any rate it was the distributor shaft itself... mechanics didn't find it till they took the cam covers and timing case off to do the timing.. I thought it was fuel pump issue, but pressure was good, they thought it could have been exhaust system clog as well... so since you seem to be looking down that road, I'd suggest getting in there and doing the full timing job and ensure all the shafts and gears are all on the up and up.
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Old 02-22-2010, 11:17 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by btwilson86 View Post
You said you checked your timing... Are you talking about your valve timing or ignition timing or both?
I thought that goes hand in hand? I used a timing gun to adjust the timing on the belt to about 10 or 11.

And thanks krem, i guess it could be the distributor itself, i sure hope not though. It isnt an exhaust clog cuz i have no Cat, so mabe mechanically the distributor is failing. Ill replace the fuel filter with one i have in the next day or two and see if that helps.
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Old 02-23-2010, 04:53 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cameroonski View Post
I thought that goes hand in hand? I used a timing gun to adjust the timing on the belt to about 10 or 11.
Not really. The Distributor is directly connected to the exhaust cam, but you still need to verify that the 2 camshafts are timed properly to the crankshaft, and then check your ignition timing again (with the timing light). On the compression stroke, the 2 camshafts have a yellow mark that points straight up (there's a raised line on the cover behind them that you can line them up to) and the crankshaft notch should be right at 0?. Then start the car, idle it to operating temp and shut it off. Put your jumper wire in the diagnostic box and hook up your timing light. Fire the car up and set your base ignition timing to 10? BTDC. Pull the jumper out with the car running and verify that it advances further a couple of degrees, then shut the car off, tighten your dizzy, and disconnect the timing light.

Check here for more info, found this in the MKIII FAQ.
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Old 02-26-2010, 01:13 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by btwilson86 View Post
Not really. The Distributor is directly connected to the exhaust cam, but you still need to verify that the 2 camshafts are timed properly to the crankshaft, and then check your ignition timing again (with the timing light). On the compression stroke, the 2 camshafts have a yellow mark that points straight up (there's a raised line on the cover behind them that you can line them up to) and the crankshaft notch should be right at 0?. Then start the car, idle it to operating temp and shut it off. Put your jumper wire in the diagnostic box and hook up your timing light. Fire the car up and set your base ignition timing to 10? BTDC. Pull the jumper out with the car running and verify that it advances further a couple of degrees, then shut the car off, tighten your dizzy, and disconnect the timing light.

Check here for more info, found this in the MKIII FAQ.
Thanks, i read that and then had my auto teacher look it up in his big CD collection of car information. Ive done the first couple steps, so the cams are lined up right with the crankshaft and the belt is tight. I adjusted the timing by RPMs because i didnt have a light, and its better. Once I get the timing gun ill fine tune it and get back to yall. Power isnt all the way there, but its better.
Thanks!
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Old 02-26-2010, 01:41 AM   #9
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Never adjust timing by RPM or sound... this isn't 1920.
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Old 02-27-2010, 05:54 PM   #10
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Never adjust timing by RPM or sound... this isn't 1920.
I didn't have a timing gun and I had to get the car home... so i adjusted the timing by sound, drove it home, and am going to borrow the timing gun to get it right. I know not to do that and then leave it, its just for the time being, pun intended.
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