chase the bolts in the block with a tap? huh? what?

and yea i like the wing. pretty is always fun hahahahahaha............

ok so im about to go to kragen to get that last hose. feels like Christmas.

anyone have any start-up tips that they have personally used after a rebuild. or if you just know for sure whats good to do. thank you

tried to start the car. turns over but no fire. found gas gushing out of the fuel rail in the rear. turns out i have the wrong washer on it. now were searching to find something to fit the circular union. obvious car will not start without pressure for the fuel rail right?

Startup tips
 

When I started mine after the rebuild - I pulled the fuel pump fuse and cranked the engine to get oil pumped into all the berings. The OIL gauge will not move while cranking. It is a really a good idea to remove the plugs but I know that is hard to do.

Then put fuse back in and key on to be sure check engine light goes off while crank.

I used straight 30 weight OIL non detergent for break-in

Once engine fired - quickly turn off to check for coolant and fuel leaks. I know after all the work you want to fire it up and hard rev but don't do that. It takes a while for that 30 weight oil to get heated up so it can get back into the dry berings.

The real trick is to very gradually heat it up. So start and idle for a minute. Then Turn off. Wait for 5 minutes and repeat several times till you start to smell the new paint on the engine. Then idel long enough for the T-Stat to open to check for more leaks.

Most important - DO NOT IDLE FOR LONG IN THE GARAGE. You reallay want to load up rings by driving in shory hard burst so the OIL doen not glaze onto the cylinder walls. Long idles do not push the rings against the cylinders to scrape the oil off before it glazes the walls.

Let us know if you still have questions - good luck

I know I should know this but. Where's the fuel pump fuse? And what do you mean pull the plugs. Thanks for your help. You were my main thread in this build I was trying to follow

found a stray wire

http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...dd9fff94f8.jpg

thoughts? i have no idea what it is. its next to the fuse box

Fuel Pump Fuse
 

Its the EFI Fuse ITs marked on the lib of the fuse box.

As to the connector - I can't tell from the photo its not focused enough for me to see. How many terminals does it have? 3? Are they in a T pattern?

I can go look under the hood on mine to see.

Its black with two slots. Also what fuse is ESC. 60 A?

Plugs -
 

Remove the spark plugs so you can crank without compression - allows oil to pump through out the engine without draining your battery. Better way to get it up to the CAMs. Most people don't do this because its too hard to get all the plugs out.

Cruise Control
 

Electronic Speed Control?

Looked under the hood on mine and fount a 2-wire like your photo. It's T pattern and goes to the Spark Coil. The other end goes to the wire harness.

no doesnt look like a T. just has two slots.

so i tried the engine again. turns over fine. car keeps revving but no fire. my dad says it might be my timing?

do you think i need to adjust the timing now? the car just keeps backfiring with no start

Timing is critical
 

Again - this is fhere spark plug removal is helpful. With plugs removed yo can get a timming light on the #1 wire and crank engine to set distrub to get close enough to fire up.

With mine - I just set distrib half way and was close enoungh to get going.

It is very important to get distrub back in right so timming in not off - assuming timming belt was all lined up correct.

If you don't want to remove plugs - you can try cranking while rotating distrib slightly plus or minus. One way cranking will go easier - other way harder.

With plugs removed you can check compression to see is valve timming is OK and also check for wet cylinders for fuel injectors.

Any vacuum ports not connected will also hard start or not idle.

Even though its EFI, open the throttle a bit while starting to bypass the idle control if it not connected correctly.

If it backfires its getting fuel and spark - so timming is going to be important.

I always put a light on my crank before trying to start as a miss timed enginge can lead to bad things that undo all the hard work.

Chasing head bolt threads.... Google it and I'll let you decide how worried you want to be. If you installed head studs and not bolts then you don't need to worry about it really. If you did use headbolts, I hope you lubricated them VERY well and you should plan on doing multiple retorques over the next several thousand miles.

I agree with the cranking with the EFI fuse pulled, I don't agree with running straight 30 weight oil.... this is NOT a rebuild Joe.

I don't see any point to the thing about running the car, then stopping it, then running it, then stopping it.... I don't see any harm from doing it, but I see no benefit... Mind elaborating on this Joe?

When I'm getting ready to finish a HG job I pour some of the thinnest (and cheapest) oil I can find over the cams so it will flow through the head and block and help flush out any garbage. Don't leave the drain plug in. Then, I'll plug the drain, and pour in my motor oil (don't use expensive stuff here either) without the covers on yet, making sure to saturate the cams and valve buckets. I'll pull the EFI fuse (shouldn't be in yet anyway) install the valve covers and crank the engine for about 30 seconds. Now jumper FP and B+ in the diagnostic box to power the fuel pump with the car off.... look for fuel leaks. NOW, install spark plugs, intake, EFI fuse, remove jumper and start her up. Let the car run at idle until it reaches operating temp. Check again for leaks, check oil level and top off as needed.

Now, drive it around the block a couple times... not too far, just want to make sure everything is flowing well. Head home and change the oil and filter. Dont' run the best stuff here either as you're going to be changing it again in 3 or 4 days... use the good stuff then (I recommend Pennzoil Platinum 0W-30 or Castrol Syntec European Blend 0W-30). When you do the final oil change changing the coolant is a good idea as well.

Use a GOOD oil filter, Purolator PureOne, Wix/NAPA Gold, Mobile One or K&N.... I really recommend using a PureOne here, I think it has the finest filtration of small particles.

It's not that I like wasting oil... but it's cheap compared to doing damage due to particulate in the engine that you didn't realize was there.

Timming
 

When putting the distrib back in - be sure the center of the rotor blade is lined up on the #1 spark wire terminal when crank is TDC on fire stroke (remember its TDC twice, once on fire and once on exhaust so be sure you got the right one.)

You can put the distrub cap to locate the #1 terminal and then mark the mark the housing with a perm marker so you can remove the cap to see the rotor . Be sure to rotate crank severl rev by hand to be sur the rotor always goes back to #1 terminal when at TDC on crank.

This will get close enough to start.

The extra plug, not very clear. What are the colors of the wires running to it? Is the Auxiliary fan on the radiator plugged in (looks too small for that connector though)?

put a light on your crank? also i was going through the TSRM and noticed i didnt align the grooves in the distributer with the cam or what not? i was told i could just shove in the distributer because it didnt need a specific placement

Ummm... NO. Has to be at 0* along with the cams and the crank.

holy sh*t. ok im sure this is the prolem. i didnt read any of this when putting the car back together.:dunno:

last time i listen to a guy with a tsi

As long as it's all zero'd out you should land pretty close to 0* of advance with the distributor bolted in the center of it's range. Unless you're off a tooth or more on a gear there's no room in the adjustment slide to be off more than 15*... I really don't see the point in this.

Dumbass. :D

so all i need to do is set everything to 0.

the cams are already lined up with the crank. but for the dist. this hash mark has to be pointing up also?

http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...079e67d042.jpg

Timming
 

Put crank at TDC of Compression Stroke (if valve covers are off this easy to see when intake valve has rotated and closed)

If everthing is back together you will remove #1 spark plug and put wodden dowel or long straw into cylinder and rotate engine till it tops out and TDC mark on crank.


Then with #1 spark terminal marked on Distrib housing. Put distrib back in and note center of rotor blade aligned with mark. If not aligned, lift out distrib half way till you can rotate the rotor one nothch on the gear teeth and slide all the way back down and recheck. Keep doing this one tooth at a time till you get he rotor blade centered on the #1 spark terminal.

Then set distrib half way on it adjustment travel and tighten down. Recheck by rotationg crank and note if rotor alwys aligns with #1 termianl on cap.

thanks everyone. well sadly i got to go to a funeral now. ill finish up later

I redo it until the bolt goes through the center WITH the rotor still at 0.

Did you read my extended post a few posts back? I'm curious, did you install studs or bolts?

Got head arp bolts.

So I know you guys told me pretty blak and white how to put the alternator in but I'm still a little unsure and my dad is just as slow as me.

When you torqued down the bolt did they move smoothly all the wayuntil you stopped or did they stutter or skip? It's important.


The CPS is easy. Here's how I do it broken down into tiny steps: ;)
Remove cap so rotor is visible.
Line up circle indicator with notch on the other end.
(I don't do this, but you might as well) Use a magic marker to place a mark on the rotor and on the CPS/Dizzy housing so you can relocate/verify 0? easily if you need to.
Now, insert the shaft in the hole...
Giggle like a girl. (optional)
Before seating the CPS/Dizzy, rotate the whole assembly so the CPS/Dizzy retainer bolt's hole is in the CENTER of the eccentric opening.
Now, as long as the rotor is still at 0?, insert!

NOTE: Due to the cam and rotor's helical gears the rotor will rotate a little bit as it turns. If it doesn't line up very close to 0? when inserted try backing it out and rotating the rotor just a hair clockwise or counterclockwise to correct for the rotation. Mine's not dead on, but it's only off by 1/16" or so... With the dizzy lined up to the center of the eccentric bolt hole my timing is pretty much at 0?. You don't have to do it this way, but it makes things easier sometimes and you can then confidently mark the CPS/Dizzy housing to reflect where 10? is. ;)

Bah.... the alternator... not paying attention here eh? Sorry... that's even easier, but I think the TSRM covers it fine. I'll look it up.


EDIT: Well, it's a simple job, but the TSRM may not explain it well enough, I dunno: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...aspx?S=CH&P=17

The only trick is that there's a metal bushing in the upper mount which presses inward as you tighten the top bolt. If you have trouble getting the top pivot in us some pliers or a small C clamp to press the bushing back out of the gap... it'll close back in when you tighten the bolt down.

no sorry thats a typo i meant the dist. my bad. ok ill be back. time to try this out

bolts moved smoothly all the way. used the goooooooooy stuff they gave me. did it in 3 passes also to make sure everything was tight.

*turn key*

rev rev rev rev..... POP

smoke........

sorry folks but this maybe be it. maybe its shop time

Okay... I'm just the paranoid sort; It's served me well over the years.

Well, don't blame ya if you do, but I'd go over it all one more time... you're missing something. If it's back firing through the intake either the mechanical timing is off or the plug wires are installed in the wrong order.... same thing's likely if it's doing it out the back too actually.

I'd go back through the TRSM's reinstallation segment and double check everything. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar....aspx?S=EM&P=1

Make sure you do not over tighten the timing belt tensioner pulley, it will distort the #1 cylinder rather easily if tightened past specs.

i dunno cre. im kinda scared to see whats dead now. there was smoke in the engine and no power after last night. grrrrrrrrrrrrr

ok so my friend says that the smoke is nothing. grrr

"keep trying"

:rolleyes2

ok so. lets think this through again. the cam gears should be pointing up as the crank is at 0. right?

i take the cap off the dist.... sh*t as i was reading i was going over cre's other post.

"Line up circle indicator with notch on the other end."

circle indicator? that little hole inside the dist?

i lined up that little notch with the other little notch on the side...

God im hopeless

does it matter how the cap is installed?

ok so i start work tomorrow. i know its sad that i still cat understand this process but any help is appreciated. what is the notch and indicator? people keep saying to point the arrow to cylinder 1. and does it matter what way i have the dist. cap?

Dist alignment
 

The cap only goes on one way - its keyed.

Besure you got the plug wires correct on the cap and locate the #1 Spark terminal on the cap. Then mark the distrib housing where the post is.

When the distrib is installed correctly, the rotor will boin to the mark when the engine is at TDC on the crank mark.

But the engine is TDC twice during cycle so be sure ist on the compression stroke. Put a screw drive in the #1 spark hole and be sure it tops out at tdc or else its on the exhaust stroke.

Any errors in putting timong belt on will also cause the symptons. Need to look at cams and be sure valves are opening and closing at the right time.

Be sur ethe two marks on the cam sprockets ling up on crank TDC. You need to check that after several rev as the belt will tension and stretch after install

you love my pics
http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...62bdd5e436.jpg
http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...6259c11ba9.jpg