No rtv...

What problems am I looking at? And I did buy new bolts for the cam covers so I might have warped them?

Cre?

Anyone?

Well, did you over torque the covers? If you did you can check for warpage by holding them against a piece of glass... no biggie. After you reinstall (and put RTV in the right place here too) if you have issues with leakage then you've most likely crushed the rubber seal... and before anyone tried to argue that you can't crush rubber, go look up the shore durometer scale... I'm sick of arguing about stupid shit (not at all directed at you CV).

As for the RTV on the timing plate... you're going to leak oil by the water pump and below the alternator... if it gets bad enough it will soak and ruin the timing belt.

The location where RTV is REQUIRED is shown on these two pages:
(1st picture)
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...aspx?S=EM&P=55

(1st picture)
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...aspx?S=EM&P=56

Additionally, there is an order you SHOULD use when installing the valve covers. Tighten the two middle bolts 1/2 the torque value, then tighten the inner bolt toward the front, then the outer bolt toward the rear, then the outer toward the front, then the inner toward the rear... then in the same order torque the rest of the 22 INCH lbs.



I am sorry... I thought you were following the manual with all of this.There are two ways to seal the leak at the timing plate: pull the head or pull the lower timing plate... both entail approximately the same amount of labor, but the head is the one you're familiar with... and the head is the safer bet... downside there is you'll need a new HG. By pulling the timing plate you can slide it off, load in a lot of RTV on ALL of the connecting surfaces and then try to slide it in without pinching the HG thus preventing the timing plate from mounting without a gap... I've done it successfully, but I don't recommend it.




I'll add that I think it's unlikely that ou warped the valve covers... still, you should check them just in case.

I've been through the timing plate thing on two of these cars, including my own not both my fault although mine was). It's not the worst thing that could happen and pulling the head back off isn't so bad... not since everything's been off recently and the process is fresh in your mind.

The leaks at the lower timing plate are generally very steady, but slow. You can get by for a good amount of time before tackling it. Sometimes it won't start leaking right away either, but that doesn't seem very common. Unfortunately, this is a common oversight another common source of leaks here is machine shops not cutting the block deck with the timing plate installed thus making the timing plate taller than the block which holds the head up at the front.

I feel bad man. Nothing worse than forgetting one little thing only to find out it just may bite you in the ass in a big way... but seriously, don't freak... it shouldn't be leaking so much as to prevent you from driving the car for a month or two until you're ready to swap the HG... and the HG WILL be easier to swap the second time around... hell, maybe you'll the one lucky SOB for whom it doesn't leak.

sooo i have been following the tsrm. i did notice the part about sealing the timing cover but i thought it was nothing. and honestly didnt quite understand. the rtv goes behind the rear timing plate (between the block and the timing plate? or since i can take the head off i can rtv on top of the timing plate? i did have the machine shop shave the plate along with the block so they are flush.

and for the timing covers i can just rtv in the corners as shown in the picture? also are you using stock bolts with the philips heads or did you get replacement bolts? i have new bolts but i couldnt find grommets like the original.

thanks so much for the help cre. i think this is exactly whatmy problem is. besides changing the distributer o-ring and figuring the electrical for my oil pressure sensor.

The RTV does go on top of where the plate and block meet. Put down about a 1/4" bead.... I'm pretty sure mine leaked because I put it on way too thin.

Get new grommets from Toyota or another parts shop if they have them... definitely use them. I'm using hex bolts with a flange head along with rubber/copper grommets I found at a specialty hardware shop. If you really want to make sure they stay in place you may add a drop of temporary thread locker to each of the bolts.

Still no oil pressure readings?

heyyy sorry for not having an update. i have classes just for a few weeks and i wont be able to resume for a little. the car is currently sitting in shame.

ok sooooooo. just to triple, double, quadruple check. all i need to do is take off the head. not the rear timing plate.

then put a thin bead on top in those two spots where the timing plate and the block meet.

hmmmmmmmmmm

since im going to be unable to work on it im also going to see if i can order new copper washers, no 3 valve cover, and a few other things.

Yes, pull the head to seal that area... it's just as much work the other way, harder to reassemble and you're likely to scrape the RTV out from where it needs to be when you put the plate back on.

Did you go with a metal HG or an OEM style composite HG? If you used a composite HG it needs to be replaced.

Don't forget the RTV at the #1 cam caps when you reinstall the valve covers.

I'd install new cam seals and new valve cover seals if you haven't already done so.

heyyy sorry im back from school. i had training for 2 weeks for my plumbing. i already have new seals and i have the no. 3 cam cover, copper washers, misc bolts and head gasket on the way. what area on the cam covers should i rtv? man im so surprised that its such a big deal to rtv that tiny space on the timing cover.

I linked to the TSRM pages where it shows where to RTV both timing cover and the valve covers a few posts up: http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/78100-post243.html

Yeah, we don't use a lot of RTV on these engines but this engine's a bitch when you forget it.

man that sucks. i should have paid more attention. well i havnt driven it since my first run so hopefully everything is good. parts still havnt come in but it should take me long at all to do this after i get the parts. still cant believe a couple drops of that rtv can make such a big difference. cam covers definitely need it though. i heard of some people just putting rtv all around the covers, is that bad?

just remembered i forgot to get a new o-ring for the distrib.......

what the....?
 

sooo the parts just came in. got every thing i neeed. but...............


as i was taking off the rubber cover for the oil sensor i realized it was totally gashed....

huh?

anyways i was talking to my dad and he things we should just rig our own sensor like the was his GS is. i dont care really i just want to know things are fine. well i cant wait to finally get this done. started raining again so i cant work. but hell this will only take a snap.


thanks again for everyones help. this build has been taking so long ive already had time to start saving for the r154 swap

If you mean he's suggesting adding an aftermarket gauge and sender, well, that's an option... BUT, you'll still need to fix the stock unit... the ECU read it too. ;)

Sorry.

Hmmm what do you mean? I can't put a normal gauge straight on the adapter without any electronics? This would just be temporary till I can figure out why my sensor isn't working (or whatever is causing my gauge to not work). The guy at the auto shop says it should be reading around 15 psi?

The ECU requires an oil pressure reading within the same range as the stock oil pressure sender provides at any given RPM. Oil pressure senders provide signals which can vary greatly from one make and model to the next. you can run without the stock sender in there for a while but you may notice a loss in power and mileage. So, even if you do add an aftermarket gauge you do need to replace the stock sender (even if you don't use the stock gauge).

15psi is vague as hell... at idle? High or low? At low idle and at normal operating temps the oil pressure may be anywhere from 4.3psi to 40psi and still be within spec.... 4.3psi is the minimum pressure at normal operating temp and warm idle. The oil pressure you're really after is 3KRPM and above; You want 36psi+.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...Section=LU&P=4

yea i was trying to find a gauge like the last picture on that link

Any mechanical oil pressure gauge will work. For the hose you may need to get a hose made or get adapters to connect to the 1/8" BSP port. I wouldn't even pull the stock sender, there's another port about 8" forward of that one with a plug in it that you may also use.

when I start my car, cold, she goes up to ~44 PSI.. after five to ten minutes of driving, she'll be at high end of norm. operating temperatures and the oil pressure will be ~8-10 PSI regardless of my RPM... do I need to stay over 3k rpm for a certain period of time before I see the pressure begin to rise again? cause I cruise at about 2.5k rpm and only get over 3k when I'm accelerating or on the freeway at 65+ mph... but I still don't see a rise in pressure until I turn her off and let her sit and cool for a bit.. :nuts::confused::x:

oh sweet so yea ill just leave that sender on and use that other port.

the head is off and im about to sqeeze a little bit of that rtv on those two spots.

im shocked i still love this car, good thing im obsessed with supra's

Krem, your issue sounds like either a fault in the wiring or the sender... I'd try cleaning the contacts first though. I really don't like the way they fasten.

haha so as im thinking that the head would be off soon. my 1/2 to 3/8 broke on my torque wrench. wtf. shouldnt those be rated at over 150 lbs?

hey cre, im just getting near the end and im putting everything back together, but. im turning thr crank just to make sure it rotates smoothly and whatnot but as im turning it the crank feels like its binding on something. i can hear a lot of gas type noises, i figure its from the car being previously run but should it be binding like its doing now? or is it just from the pressure inside the engine?

or maybe its the transmission?

Pull the spark plugs. ;)

Haha...hahaha....hahahaha.....

Damn this needs to be over

You've telling me... I'm having nightmares about you now... we're married and you keep making me..... well.... whatever. :rofl2:

hahaha my girl says we need to send you a gift or something for all of this. we both know i couldnt have done this without you.... in a non gay way :ghey:

and yea shes serious

soooooooooooooooooo in case everyone thought i was dead.

im still alive

and as of a few days ago....

im finished :)

Grats CV... now you and your women can meet up w/ cre in vegas to help me fix mine :rofl: nah, kidding... I can wrestle my way through it.. just the advice, info and tips I get here help enough... grats again CV.. spin yer tires for me.. since I still need to do work to have the power to do so.

lol cre is going to vegas?

Shoot, I'm down for Vegas...

Congrats on completing the job CV

It seems to have been an... interesting... experience. Fun to read though ;)

haha thanks so much. now i cant wait to do other things. little face lift here. jenny craig there....

Thanks
 

hey just wanted to say thanks again for everyones help and support. CRE, Joe, Krem gosh sooo many people. thanks again and now im a proud supra owner