sorry i couldnt find a diagram but its underneath the intake runner exactly behind where the IAC hose is connected. i used a good bit of rtv and let it sit over night. so i dont know what the problem could be besides it being cracked. all the bolts are in and tightened too.

also my dad has informed me that he accidently stepped on my injectors as he was walking around the garage. :(

not quiting yet....

on the bright side im learning a whole lot about cars.....

still dont know much

so it turns out one a couple of the grommets on the injectors were leaking. the thing is i cant get the factory ones off. they spin but dont like off. im afraid to put too much pressure and break something else. also theres no crack on the intake runner and the hose nipple looks fine. so im buying another gasket and will try again tomorrow hopefully. and tool to get these grommets off? thanks

http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...d312bfa042.jpg

http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...7a50b6fba6.jpg

just as an update to what i replaced.

spark plugs
pretty much all the hoses
water pump
fan clutch
radiator
new head
machined block
rebuild kit

Just crack the old grommets with some wire cutter, what doesn't cut usually crakcs anyway and they'll come right off. I HIGHLY recommend replacing all of the gormmets and O-rings.

Good luck with the new gasket... I have no idea why that's causing you so much trouble. :(

the car hates me. so simple :)

hehe it worked. cool cool. we will see how this goes tomorrow. round no. 5!!!!

................
:crazy:

oops! thanks cre. saved my butt again.

so i got the gaskets in. trying to finish up before it gets late. just broke a connector that my brother soldered. oops. oh well

so we should be firing up the car soon. just throwing together the intake.

Leak?
 

So - are you saying replacing the intake gasket solved the leak?

Yup - the only way to really lean about cars is taking one apart and putting back together.

Good luck.

well the nipple is fine and there isnt a crack so thats the only thing i can think of. and the gaskets look like some good composite and in case i have to take this apart again im not going to rtv it. otherwise ill have to buy another gasket. grrr

oh hey i like this
http://www.performancepolishing.net/...pra2%20013.jpg

makes me appreciate my stock body. just want it slightly lover and stiffer. heard alot of people use HR springs. i dunno though. cause im planning on lightening this car up a bit so id prolly need springs t fit the different weight load no? also need new tires asap. the look bad....

lol some guy from up the street came to me asking about his car. :P if only people knew im a plumber... not a mechanic

liquids in.......

no leak for now hehe. doing good so far

battery is charging. be starting it up tomorrow

this is getting redicilous
 

so the car started up nicely, better than all the other times realy. but....

http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...9f21884b59.jpg

this valve on the front side of the fuel rail was leaking. so we took it off and put a new ring on it. when we put it back down the hole wont face the right direction. we keep playing around with it and cant get it to work. whats the trick with this?

so i notice the nut on the bottom can be rotated independently. the leak is coming from between the nut and the regulator body. my dad suggests that this one is broken and i should get a new one. a new one being $150. i dont think so. any help would be greatly appreciated.

Well, first off, copper washers need to be replaced whenever they're disturbed. Second, pull the regulator back out another full turn and then tighten and see if it still leaks. It is possible you damaged it when you tried to install it before, but it'd be hard to do from what I recall of the assembly, I'll have to dig out my spare and check.

yea the copper washers are all holding. the leak is right here...

http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...bc2654e57f.jpg

I know where you meant... is the rubber O-ring still intact? Did you back the regulator out further and then try retightening the nut? If you're getting fuel out of the top of the nut then the seal below is failing... only place i can see where that could happen (I'm looking at one right now).

so your saying the leak has to be from the o-ring or washer? if its not that then it has to be damaged or something?

thank you

CVbikeguy, been watching your thread and didn't expect you to finish this rebuild without giving up and just letting a shop finish it. Your pretty good for a newb.

I was actually thinking of doing the same with my 87 N/A Supra but after seeing all the troubles you went to changed my mind. I whimped out...:D

Your car looks sweeeet and I wish my Supra is the same...

wow thanks man. yea im pretty sure i got the rest of this down. just a few more tweaks. this car was in bad shape when i got it. after doing this rebuild i realized how little i know and still how little i know about cars. but man after all this knowledge i now know that my car was in bad shape. had a small temptation to part it out......

jk

Heh, for a while there I was thinking about parting it out for ya! :rofl2:

hahaha nice.

so tomorrow im going to try that out. im so shocked that the o-ring itself and the washer is enough to hold the gas. oh well. should be fine.

on a brighter side. ive been reading the "evosupra" new paint job thread........

some good entertainment.

Think about it, an even smaller O-Ring hold the fuel in the rail where the injectors connect... besides, I suspect the threads (when properly torqued) hold back most of the pressure. The FPR doesn't use a tapered thread (at least not from what I recall) so there's no worry about you having spread the opening too far... if it is tapered and the o-ring doesn't provide the seal, you may indeed be looking for a new fuel rail... But, I don't think that's the case at all.


Oh god... don't remind me... :hand::rolleyes2:frown::squint::eek3::rofl2: <----- All applicable.

rebuild 7mge
 

so have you got it up and running yet? read the story!
it made me laugh and it made me cry!!!! i know exactly what you've gone through. i think i need to replace my 7mgte mk2 possible cracked block??? i dont want to look at it ,it might confirm my worst fears!!!!!!!!!:help:

garr a leak so smallll. so the pressure regulator is still leaking. were gonna go with replacing it and also getting some new copper washers too. try again tomorrow after work.

did i mention the car sounds sooooo nice?

lol thanks so much. oh man cracked block. almsot thought i was going to have that. good luck!

ok so we tried again tonight. we bought a new o-ring but the gauge was thicker than the original so we tried the old o-ring again and of course it still leaked. and the the copper washers on the attaching union decided to leak. but thats an easy fix. could i possibly also be installing this wrong? do i take the o-ring off of the regulator and fit it in the space on the fuel rail before hand? and then once the ring is in i thread the regulator on? cause the fuel rail has a circular grove on the fuel rail around the threads where the regulator goes in. sorry i hope this is making sense. im kind of in a bind and im getting rides to work from family and im getting pressure to get a new FPR. :help: i have a strong feeling im just missing something. can the nut on the FPR be in any position?




[/QUOTE]Oh god... don't remind me... :hand::rolleyes2:frown::squint::eek3::rofl2: <----- All applicable.[/QUOTE]

that was so ridiculous. people saying his car was actually cool and that nate shouldnt be hating.....

i almost had an asthma attack. my mom could tell that the car was crap and she started to laugh:rofl2:. i love this forum

wheres my inhaler...

trying to research

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar.../FI/FI_082.gif

so ill try the new o-ring. but what does it mean loosen up the nut and turn the regulator counter clockwise.

this is embarrassing that im having so much trouble with this

I think it means to loosen it so that you can rotate the pressure regulator independent of the lock nut position, allowing you to set it right and then torque the fpr down on the fuel rail.

Wow.... umm.... yeah. I'm sorry you're having so much trouble too. I'll dig out my spare fuel rail and FPR and make a video this weekend if need be... you are making this too hard or something is F@$%ED up.

No, you can't install the O-ring before the FPR. A thicker O-ring could cause problems if it is too thick. Get the right size... it'll be metric. 10mmID x 2mm is what I come up with measuring mine and accounting for changes in shape from prior service.


Step one: With FPR off of fuel rail unthread lock nut all the way with just your fingers (this means the lock nut will move UP toward the FPR's body).

Step two: screw FPR onto the fuel rail by hand until it stops... DO NOT TIGHTEN ANYTHING!

Step three: Unscrew the FPR just enough to get it pointing the right direction.

Step four: tighten lock nut.

NOTE: To help ensure that the o-ring isn't getting pinched you may wet it with a little soapy water before threading the FPR onto the rail.

You know, it may be embarrassing and frustrating, but you've done a shitload more than most newbies here would ever try... and you've done quite well. ;)

New News?
 

Been a few days with any word?

When I took my my FPR off for the rebuild - I just put it back on with a new copper washer and no problem. Wonder if your model year is that much different then mine (90') Don't reacall an extra O' ring.

There's no copper washer for the lower junction... there's a steel washer which isn't removable and an o-ring under it. There wasn't any change to this over any of the years. If yours was different then it's not Denso or had been modified.

new fpr
 

so i got the new fpr. and after getting the exact washers as the originals that i had it still leaked.....


turns out they were the wrong size from the beginning. i hate whoever rebuilt this in the past.

ill kill em.

one of the many things that were wrong when i was putting this back together.

car is running
 

yes so i changed out the washers on the union thats connected to the fpr and.

bam! no leaks. car is running and sounds good. sooooo in order for me to fully wrap this up i will let you all know in great detail what happened next.

1. car was started we checked for leaks and let it run for a little bit. had small leaks around the cam covers. i bought new bolts for them, so i dont know why they were still leaking. car smoked for a little bit of course. i couldnt tell if it was burning oil or if it was the paint coming off of my manifold. :p either way the smell and smoke left.
2. turned it off and got it set up for timing.
3. turned it on and timed the car fairly easily.
4. drove up the street and back then checked for leaks again.
5. left it running as we got the hood.
6. came back and the car was still idling nicely.
7. still oil leaking but really not much. *afterthought* i should replace the o-ring for the distributer. i didnt think about it at the time and also didnt know how great of importance they are.
8. drove to starbucks to show the lady at work. took it easy.
9. drove a mile or so up the hill doing short bursts, nothing crazy of course.
10. drove back to starbucks and checked for leaks. could see some small drips on the ground. underneath the distributer part of the engine and under the front driver side of the engine. still nothing crazy. causght a small whiff of what i think was burning oil (figured from the covers leaking slowly to the block)
11. drove to my brothers house a couple miles away. started to have a hard time idling, lights started dimming. needed a second set of eyes and it was late and he had a flashlight. checked for fluids on a steep grade (not too smart) no oil of course.
12. put a quart in, still no oil.
13. took his truck to kragen a couple miles away and got oil.
14. cam back and parked the car on flat ground.
15. filled up the car with about 2 1/2 more quarts
16. drove to starbucks and waited for lady to get off work. check for drips, couldnt tell in the dark. car idled better.
17. lady got off work and followed me back.
18. parked and car had burning oil smell still.

ok so my thoughts on whats going on

my oil pump wasnt replaced. still freaks me out. though i do have oil coming out of the cams sooo there has to be some pressure? i just hate that my gauge doesnt work. i think im always going to be paranoid about this

also oil leaking around the cam covers i guess would explain the oil smell.

also when i started up the car the verry first time a few weeks back the oile sensor tot he right of the oil filter was leaking. maybe its leaking again? ill have to check later. oh and when i went to fill up the car with oil, when i tool the cap off it was steaming inside. doubt this means anything since it was pretty cold and the engine is pretty hot but still. so it looks like im almost there. i just want this to be over

video
 

Glad it's running, just a couple thoughts though... You said that you kept adding oil? Is it because it was getting low on oil, or you thought it was low because your gauge shows no pressure? And I would try and clean off the contact on the oil pressure switch and reinstall the connector and see if that fixes it, otherwise you may want to put another oil pressure gauge in so that you can monitor it.

Also now that you've got it running, shut it off and check for codes! Wanna make sure everything is set up right and you don't have any gremlins hiding in the car...

One last thing, as much as I bet you would love to take your intake off again, you need to fix your leaky valve cover gaskets. That can only cause more problems down the road.

it was getting low on oil. i checked the dipstick. yea im going to check that oil pressure connector and see what i find. maybe that round sensor thing is bad? could it be a fuse? i really want that gauge working. and yes i definitely need to check the codes tonight. ill go over supragirls thread on how to read them.

to you have any recommendations for replacement bolts for the covers?

You may replace the screws with M6 hex bolts, but whatever you use remember not to over tighten them! 22 INCH lbs, is spec... too much and you may warp the covers, split the seal, or prematurely compress the seal; all of which will result in continued leaks.

The ECU requires a signal from the stock oil pressure sender. From what I understand, without it the ECU reacts as if there is a critical fault: pulls timing, adds fuel. Even if you want to swap in an aftermarket oil pressure gauge you really should get the sender working and connected. As btwilson said, it's most likely the connection.

When you installed the head did you place RTV at the corners of the rear timing plate as indicated in the TSRM? If not you're not going to be happy.

No rtv...

What have I done?