so i line up the long arrow piece where no.1 spark wire would plug in on the cap?

Timing
 

When you put the cap on the Rotor point to termianl 1 with engine at TDC

car started. lot of smoke only at the exhaust area of the engine. idle a little funny bot not too bad for not having the timing adjusted yet. put it in drive to move it out of the garage. no go

barely started to creep

no oil pressure

What I was referring to when I mentioned removing the cap is that you set the distributor/CPS to 0? using the marks on the shaft that goes in the head. THEN you use the rotor as a visual indicator to be sure it doesn't slip when you insert the dizzy/CPS. That's all.

You're freaking/stressing and as such making things a bit more complicated than they need to be... it's okay, we've all been there, but if you aren't 100% sure on something, then just ask, it's part of the reason some of us are here. For a COMPLETE novice, you're doing GREAT! :bigthumb: (You do need to kick that DSM or whatever guy in the balls for me though.)

any advice on the oil pressure? does it take a sec to read?

The pump is mechanical, unless you somehow managed to put the timing belt on without wrapping it around the pump's drive pulley I'm willing to bet it's flowing oil. Probably just a loose wire at the sensor's sender unit.

The sender sits below and bit back from the distributor. See the yellow arrow:
http://www.fadingworld.com/CRE/Autom...sureSender.jpg

The harness has clip on wire that slides on sideways (you'll see) and the whole thing has a boot or rubber cap that covers the connector and sender.

pully? oops

Is smoke normal when you start up the car for the first time?

Heh, depends where.... generally, yes, it's normal. Oil and other detergents from working on and cleaning the block and head need to burn off. Should'nt last for too long, the smoke under the hood from oil spills and cleaners and such takes a lt longer to clear out but should be much thinner.

Where' the smoke and what's it smell like? How much is there?

Oil PSI
 

After my rebuild the OIL PSI did not read at all while cranking and took about a 30 seconds after startup to register. Should come right up after that.

If car starts, runs rough, and lacks power - it is ign timing or valve timing.

Car should warm up so ECM dosn't choke down the IAC before you do final timing adjustment. Just keep the car running via throttle till warmed up and then check timing with light on crank.

Smoke
 

Smoke out exhaust is ok at start. Lots of smoke in engine bay may need some attention as every thing should be sealed off. Any residue on exhaust pipe will really smoke a lot.


DOes car run by its self at idle?? Or do you need to keep on the throttle?

Have you tried to pay with he distrubutor by rotating to get faster idle? As you rotate slightly idle should smooth out - really need to a light on it thought to get it right.

yea it smokes at the exhaust pipe. its an odd smell. not cooland and not oil.

also we played with the dist. a bit to get it to idle by itself but my dad says he has a timing light. not surprised if its brand new. he has ever tool. perfectly new. never used :dunno:

man i cant believe this might be it. i might actually be able to drive this beast

the smoke is starting to get more excessive. the fuel gauge is still not responding even after i checked the sensor. still barely budges when i put it in gear. kinda smells like oil. oh yea i have leaks around the cam covers.

any other reason why there wouldnt be oil pressure. and i think my heater hose nut/union behind the engine is leaking too. f me

When you say "smoke around the exhaust pipe" are you referring to smoke coming out of the muffler or smoke like something's burning on the exhaust manifold in the engine bay?

Did you follow the TSRM's instructions while doing this whole project?

Stop worrying about driving it right now... you need to get all the little kinks worked out. Is it idling steadily? Have you checked the wire running to the oil pressure sender? If the wire running to the oil pressure sender is connected securely you need to stop running the engine and look for the source of the problem. If the pump isn't actually moving oil for some reason you're going to kill the engine pointlessly. Did you apply RTV where the cam cover goes up over the #1 cam cap? How's the ignition timing look? Any diagnostic codes? If so, post them here (but don't give them much creed at the moment) clear them then check after the next time you run the car for a few minutes.

Check your oil level!

Pressure
 

You really need oil pressure - or else....

My trick is to ground the lead from the sender to see if the gauge moves to full scale - then you know gauge is OK.

If you have Oil leaking from valve covers then you must have pressure as pump goes all the way to the cam lifter bay - so probably OK.

The valve covers need to be torqued down and RTV on each end at the joints.

BIG QUESTION STILL IS - does the engine run OK at idle with no throttle???


There can all sorts of reasons for smoke out tail pipe. White smoke is fuel - if you put your hand in the smoke is it wet or oily? Wet smoke is fuel. oily, well you know.. Oil leak in exhaust is dark and smelly. However its pretty hard to get oil in exhaust or burn oil unless rings were put in wrong or valuve seals are leaking bad.

You have been running engine for short while so not too likely for damage yet till you isolate the problem.

When I did my rebuild - there really wasn't much smoke at all after the first few minutes.

No oil pressure on gauge is suspect but oil leak around valve covers should mean oil is pumped all the way up there.

I guess you could pull the oil filter to see if its dry or not as a mind check. Easy enough to do.

I too - worried about the oil pressure gauge on start up - but it really should read some pressure after about 30 seconds.

DOES ENGINE IDLE OK ?????

Just started it up again. Idled at 2,000 then died to 1,000 the got to 700 the jumped to 1,500. Havnt gottent to try the timing yet. Dad can't find his timing light

Oil smoke
 

Another thought - What type of oil did you use??

Break-in oil should be heavy weight non detergent single grade. Like WE30.

Because rings and breaing surfaces need time to seal - light waight oils will get past them really easy and burn in cylinders toll things seat up.

If you used 10W40 oil - it may be too light and just burn up. Also not good for seating new rings.

However - all the issues on oil grages and smoke should not really effect the engine idle or power unless something else is wrong.

The real key is does engine run smooth at idle. Because in order to run smooth at idle it must have good fuel and spark in each cylinder and good timing.

If rough at idle then you check timing, spark, and fuel..

For timing, use light,

For spark, pull wire from distrib and notice any difference.

For fuel, pull plug and look at color of tips.

Plugs will tell you if you are burnung oil, no spark, or no fuel.

Timming?
 

How sure are you the valve timming is correct??

I'd pull the upper timing cover (the one that covers the the 2 sprockets) and recheck the marks on both sprockets are align with cover marks and with crank at TDC. (Just need to pull back engough to see marks)

Easy enough to do and lets you sleep at night.

Anyway - now its time to watch the 49er game!

EDIT: I am sorry... I re-read the thread and this was a rebuild.... I'm getting confused from one member to the next this past month. My apologies.


Here's some excellent information on breaking it all in: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48993


:rolleyes2 Sorry Joe, I'm an ass.

hahaha yup yup rebuild. anyways so i was so frustrated with the car. and its numerous amounts of leaks.....

so i took it all apart. hahaha in one night. i start worl in 5.3 hours. grrrr i better hurry

Where in the engine should I or should not use rtv suff. (Gasket goop)

im still alive.....

car isnt.

so i have everything fine and perfect.....

except a leak underneath the intake runner (that tiny nipple i was trying to find before. but it actually doesnt look like its coming from the hose. looks like coolant is leaking from where the intake runner and the engine head meet..... im so lost. this will be the 4 time taking everything apart. any ideas?

thanks

The coolant channel passes through the runner's flange and into the head. If the gasket is damaged or poorly sealing it will leak.

Water Through Intake Runner
 

Yup - true as rain. That magic nipple under the intake runner feeds right through to the head and if the gasket is not right - will leak. I RTV every place where coolant can leak. .

Attachment 2724

Also don't forget about the coolant bypass that goes up to the throttle body as well

Attachment 2725

RTV the Intake runner on both sides where the collant passes through, Rtv all coolant hoses

No leaks yet,

"You don't need to rtv that"

Last time I listen to a guy with an evo also...

Grr

Excellent! Thanks for the pics Joe!

One thing to note is that if the gasket has a viton coating for that passage you need to be very careful about any sealants you might want to use on them... most contain enough trace solvents to cause the viton to bubble or ripple and may actually cause a worse leak than allowing the viton to do its job. If there is no sealant present, then YES, a thin coat of RTV is the way to go. I've had both types of gaskets in the past and neither leaked... never tried one with no sealant.

ahouls i be worried about the coolant getting in places it shouldnt since it leaked?

and yes thanks so much for the pics and help. im not giving up yet....

after putting this together for the 4th time?

Well, as long as it isn't pooling up anywhere you should be alright. Make sure it's hanging out with the spark plugs in the galley.

Hanging out with the plugs in the gally? What does that mean?

Make sure the plug galley isn't full of coolant dufus. ;)

lol. i only got one of the studs through the egr valve on accident. didnt notice and proceded to put the nuts on. pinched the valve and the nut. cant get it off. F me

Coolant
 

Coolant on outside - OK

Coolant on inside - BAD

Check for collant in OIL and in vacumm hoses. Vacumm can suck coolant into engine. If car is running fine it will burn off eventuallly but will run rough till it does.

Pull plugs and crank engine to purge any in cylinders and check plug tips for coolant.


Not sure what you mean on the valve nut thing?

sweeet :) ok i fixed it. gonna start the car up in a few hours. just wanna wait for the rtv to dry

crossing fingers
 

ok just kidding. i got pretty sick last night. also i wanted the RTV to sit a little before i started. soooo im gonna start it up pretty soon today.

so i figure i turn it on.

turn it off

check for leaks

turn it on

check timing

then turn it on and off a few times reaching higher rpm each time?

change oil after 500 miles or so?

Start up
 

Good luck!

Everyone has their own opinion on this.

I started mine, ran for 30 sec to 1 minute then shut off to check for leaks

Then restart and run to check timing avout 5 minutes. Really can't get a good timing check till the engine is fully warmed up and the thermostat opens up at which time the ECM has backed off the idle control motor and engine pulling max vacuum. At this point you listen for vacuum leaks (hissing sound) which will also cause the engine to loop at idel (if ait can hold idle)

Only after the engine will idle smooth after full warm up do I rev anything or drive it.

When thermostat opens up the engine RPM will drop from 1500 to about 1000

Turn off and check OIl to be sure no water is getting in from head job.

NOW is the time to actually drive it. I use short burst to 3000 from dead stop and coast to let engine cool down between busts (30 sec each) Its a fun time because a rebuilt engine will have some pep. The graddluy increase time getting to 3000 in burst with cool down inbetween. I only ran for 5 minutes at atime for first few runs with cool down so cylinders did not get too hot before rings got a chance to seat (thrich is to keep oil from glazing to walls)

Then take it on short drives with lots of dead stop to 4000 as fast as it can. You are trying to load the crank, valves and rings so they get through full travel during bearkin.

Thats how I do it - worked for me several times. Others baby it for 5000 miles. - To each his own.

Me, I'm wasteful after big jobs like this. I run the car up to normal operating temps at idle while searching in a frantic and paranoid manner (frantic is key) for any leaks, sparks, weird green critters chewing on wires and so on.

Then I'll take the car for a short drive, about 5 miles, head home and inspect further.

No leaks? Then I'll go for a 20 mile drive. When I come home I'll look again for signs of trouble and let the car cool. After the car has cooled I replace the oil filter and change the oil.... hope you used cheap oil... ;) And top off the coolant.

For the next few hundred miles (500-600) I'll change the filter one or two more times (not the oil), top the oil off and keep a VERY close eye on coolant and oil levels and watch for signs of contamination.

After five or six hundred miles I'll change oil and filter again and return thereafter to my regular maintenance schedule. I may change the coolant at this point... depends on how clean I think I was and if the cooling system as a filter or not.



Thanks Joe, I keep forgetting he's also breaking everything in. I agree with your methodology for the break in side of things.

So attempt no. 4 has failed. Manifold still leaks in the same spot.

Did I not put enough rtv or something? Also a couple injectors are leaking. They are properly placed and everything.

This car, is cursed

leak
 

where exactly is it leaking - diagram?

Does the engine start? or is leaking bad while cranking?

Really don't need much RTV at all - just a thin film - so it must be a bad fit, crack, missing bolt, bad nipple fitting, bad or cracked hose?