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#1 |
![]() Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,038
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Home Depot does (or at least used to) carry grade 8 bolts, but not in metric sizes. I have found that most of the smaller chains around here carry or can order them though.
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#2 |
1000whp postwhore
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Escape from the Prison Planet
Posts: 1,356
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Let's get back on topic here.
If you are still on stock head bolts. The least you can do is order toyota oem's. But you should go ARP and sleep alot easier. You are going to need a torqu wrench. pay attention to your head. Place the washers on the grooves before your studs or bolts. I went with studs. Hard to beat a studded engine if your'e going for a DD big boy toy. HKS Stopper MHG. You want one. How is your block? Did you have it machined? Give us details man. Help us help you. |
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#3 |
1000whp postwhore
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Escape from the Prison Planet
Posts: 1,356
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You can remove the exhaust mani from the block and leave it plugged up if you like. Just bungy cord it out of the way. You can leave the upper and lower plenum on. And remove the head..., you'll want help removing it. I would remove the fan shroud and the fan and probably drop the alternator just to be on the safe side. Hell. I would remove the radiator, you have to empty it first anyhow. It's nothing to pull out. Climb in and break the head loose. They tend to be a pita. A long a$$'d screwdriver / prybar. Don't fluck anything up.
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#4 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: May 2007
Location: greensboro
Posts: 242
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what is all the fuel parts you have to remove I have unhooked to injector plugs but not removed the injectors yet but do you have to remove the fuel rail and all the hoses because I did not see that in the haynes manual but I might have read it wrong and for the head can you tap it gently with a soft hammer instead of using a pry bar and maybe mest up something
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#5 |
1000whp postwhore
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Escape from the Prison Planet
Posts: 1,356
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You can leave the fuel rail attached if you choose.
Just dis-connect from the wiring harness. |
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#6 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: May 2007
Location: greensboro
Posts: 242
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cool thanks then every thing is about ready to come out
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#7 |
1000whp postwhore
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Escape from the Prison Planet
Posts: 1,356
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You know you are going to have to strip the head for machining, right.
What are you really trying to accomplish here, if I may. |
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#8 | |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Cleveland OH
Posts: 129
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__________________
1988 Supra - N/A 5 speed 1974 'Cuda - 318 2001 Cherokee |
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#9 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: May 2007
Location: greensboro
Posts: 242
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supramascis I know I have to replace the head gasket, in another forum I had a question about the engine. the motor would only turn so far with a breaker bar when trying to rotate it by hand because, the engine just locked up when I first tried to start it. and what alot of people said was it could be a rod thrown through the engine and told me to look places under the car, I did not see any places that looks like a rod or bearing was thrown out of the engine so I had to save some money and buy a head gasket and started to tear it down. and Im hoping to find a bent valve because It would make me fill better than see nothing and try to find another problem that would be more difficult to repair or replace the whole engine entirly. do you know how much it cost to do the machine work.
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#10 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: May 2007
Location: greensboro
Posts: 242
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okay I have worked all today on the supra the head is lose and can move but it will not come all the way out, what could it be stuck on. there are some sensor wires that look like they go under the intake manifold, but it does not say much in the haynes manual about removing wires. what are all the wires you have to unhook to get the head off, and what to do with the fuel rail hook ups they seem to be in the way also, {I have unhooked them but they are a weird shape to get out from under the intake maifold}
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