need help w/Bee-R rev limiter

cre · 10-31-2013, 05:03 AM

Ok, and are the two cylinder config jumpers both intact? (Brown and grey, I believe) It may require a pull up resistor. I know the MAFT Pro's timing controls required one to be added. But let's check everything else first.

EDITED

7MGTReeds · 10-31-2013, 05:19 AM

Yes I didn't cut any of those

7MGTReeds · 10-31-2013, 10:48 PM

*UPDATE* i tried a few more configurations and still nothing. i even wired in the white wire for the E-Brake to see if that would help and..... NOTHING! the lights start flashing at the right time but it's not cutting spark at all. i contacted another seller from ebay about the issues that I'm having and he said to open up my unit and see if the knobs are attached to blue switches. if they are, it's a counterfeit unit. if they're attached to black switches, it's a genuine unit. here is what mine looks like:

http://s1131.photobucket.com/user/re...34059.jpg.html

mine are attached to blue switches, which explains the issues i'm having. FAKE UNIT! I purchased another unit from the guy that i have been emailing back and forth and am getting a full refund from the previous seller. the new seller is willing to work with me and give me a refund if this one doesn't work. he also verified that the knobs are attached to black switches prior to it shipping so this should be a genuine unit that works, i hope. so Bee-R purchasers, check your knob color before you purchase. don't want anyone to go through what i am going through. More updates to come as the new unit comes in!

cre · 10-31-2013, 11:04 PM

There is a LOT of argument over what, if any, indicators there are to identify a counterfeit. The manufacturer seems to have provided no info to date. Another thing people mention is that the known genuine hardware has very short brown and grey loops and they're shrink wrapped to the main loom where it exits the case. The loops only extend an inch or so from the case.

7MGTReeds · 10-31-2013, 11:13 PM

Cre, I hear what you're saying. I've done tons of research in the pastafew days and I've seen genuine ones with long and short looms. Or At least ones that work with long and short looms. I guess the biggest visible sign of a counterfeit is blue switches. Guess ill find out in a few days

cre · 11-01-2013, 01:58 AM

The color of the casing of the potentiometers just isn't convincing enough. I've had plenty of batches of electronic components (boxes of 100 or more) from the same manufacturer where they switched between batches and one an a while mid lot. It'd really be great if the manufacturer would provide a definite test. Please do let us know what turns up and if you do get a good unit feel free to post a link for the vendor. Not a lot of call for these in the MKIII community but it wouldn't hurt to have a known good source.

7MGTReeds · 11-01-2013, 02:11 AM

Will definitely post who the vendor is if its a good unit. I don't want anyone to go through this. I understand not too many mk3 owners have these but I'm gonna support the community in any way that I can

10-31-2013, 05:03 AM	#1
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	Ok, and are the two cylinder config jumpers both intact? (Brown and grey, I believe) It may require a pull up resistor. I know the MAFT Pro's timing controls required one to be added. But let's check everything else first. EDITED __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar --->

10-31-2013, 10:48 PM	#3
7MGTReeds Stock Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Glendale, Az Posts: 9	*update* UPDATE i tried a few more configurations and still nothing. i even wired in the white wire for the E-Brake to see if that would help and..... NOTHING! the lights start flashing at the right time but it's not cutting spark at all. i contacted another seller from ebay about the issues that I'm having and he said to open up my unit and see if the knobs are attached to blue switches. if they are, it's a counterfeit unit. if they're attached to black switches, it's a genuine unit. here is what mine looks like: http://s1131.photobucket.com/user/re...34059.jpg.html mine are attached to blue switches, which explains the issues i'm having. FAKE UNIT! I purchased another unit from the guy that i have been emailing back and forth and am getting a full refund from the previous seller. the new seller is willing to work with me and give me a refund if this one doesn't work. he also verified that the knobs are attached to black switches prior to it shipping so this should be a genuine unit that works, i hope. so Bee-R purchasers, check your knob color before you purchase. don't want anyone to go through what i am going through. More updates to come as the new unit comes in!

10-31-2013, 11:04 PM	#4
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	There is a LOT of argument over what, if any, indicators there are to identify a counterfeit. The manufacturer seems to have provided no info to date. Another thing people mention is that the known genuine hardware has very short brown and grey loops and they're shrink wrapped to the main loom where it exits the case. The loops only extend an inch or so from the case. __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar --->

11-01-2013, 01:58 AM	#6
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	The color of the casing of the potentiometers just isn't convincing enough. I've had plenty of batches of electronic components (boxes of 100 or more) from the same manufacturer where they switched between batches and one an a while mid lot. It'd really be great if the manufacturer would provide a definite test. Please do let us know what turns up and if you do get a good unit feel free to post a link for the vendor. Not a lot of call for these in the MKIII community but it wouldn't hurt to have a known good source. __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar --->

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10-31-2013, 05:19 AM	#2
7MGTReeds Stock Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Glendale, Az Posts: 9	Yes I didn't cut any of those

10-31-2013, 11:13 PM	#5
7MGTReeds Stock Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Glendale, Az Posts: 9	Cre, I hear what you're saying. I've done tons of research in the pastafew days and I've seen genuine ones with long and short looms. Or At least ones that work with long and short looms. I guess the biggest visible sign of a counterfeit is blue switches. Guess ill find out in a few days

11-01-2013, 02:11 AM	#7
7MGTReeds Stock Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Glendale, Az Posts: 9	Will definitely post who the vendor is if its a good unit. I don't want anyone to go through this. I understand not too many mk3 owners have these but I'm gonna support the community in any way that I can