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Old 03-21-2012, 07:06 PM   #11
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Oil doesn't boil until well beyond 500?F.... some blends only hit boiling point for mere moments before flashing (exploding into flame). If the oil in your plug galley is reaching those temps regularly then save yourself the time and set the car on fire now before it does it for you and without your consent.

Oil will degrade plastics, rubbers and silicone if left in contact with those materials. It's not uncommon for them to reduce to a glob of goop resembling melted plastic. It is not going to soften the spring clips at the ends of the wires... If the wires are coming off they A) are some amazingly cheap crap; B) Are stretched out from improper installation/removal/handling; C) are too short (either in total length or the available length in the boot in which case more wire just needs to be pushed into the boot).

The #3 valve cover gasket is not designed to old in pressure. Actually the way it's designed it's almost like a check valve (only when new). Even if there were significant gas building up in there the most you'd see is the top seal of the spark plug boot popping out to let the gas vent. A cracked head, spark plug hole with the threads completely stripped or a spark plug which has somehow developed a hole all the way through are the only ways I can see a plug wire literally getting blown off on this engine.

ebang, it sounds like the vehicle may have very seriously overheated from a sudden loss of oil. Do a compression test already... details are in the TSRM, it's quite easy. Drain and inspect the oil. Use a clean drain pan so that you're sure that any grit or moisture is from the engine. Drain and inspect the coolant (you can't judge based on what's in the reservoir).
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Old 03-21-2012, 07:57 PM   #12
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Hey CRE, thanks for all of the input, I will drain the oil and coolant to see whats up with them, the compression test will be done sunday, a freinds is bringing the kit by to assist.
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Old 03-21-2012, 08:46 PM   #13
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Well I drained the oil, no coolant in it and it no other debries or anything same with the coolant...no oil.
The coolant came out more water than coolant...must have been when I was topping it off i was mixing it too weak. Not a whole lot of coolant came out!

I got the valve covers and the gasket of course is shot...there are four bolts holding it on what do I use to remove these.

There was still alot of oil that drained so it did not lose a whole lot...

If the car would have overheated really badly why would have I lost all oil pressure and nothing but white smoke coming from the exhaust?
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Old 03-21-2012, 10:05 PM   #14
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The coolant came out more water than coolant...must have been when I was topping it off i was mixing it too weak. Not a whole lot of coolant came out!
No worries there unless it's been a good bit below freezing temps there. Water by itself is a better heat exchanger than the components in coolant. The term "coolant" is a misnomer... it's a dielectric agent and a freeze temp modifier.

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I got the valve covers and the gasket of course is shot...there are four bolts holding it on what do I use to remove these.
I believe it's a 10mm allen socket that you want. PROTIP: a 10mm long nut and a 10mm socket wors very well if you can't find an allen socket or they're over priced.

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If the car would have overheated really badly why would have I lost all oil pressure and nothing but white smoke coming from the exhaust?
It could be two unrelated issues. White smoke is indicative of coolant entering the combustion chamber. A compression test may reveal it or pressurizing the coolant system may. This does not bode well for your HG though. Of course if your oil pump failed your pressure would fall to nothing and the extra friction could generate enough heat to warp things, blow the HG, causing the white smoke and crack the head allowing the gas from the combustion chamber to blow out the tensions wires.... Let's all take a moment to pray or wish or whatever it is you may do that this is not the case. This whole scenario is quite unlikely.... and a bit silly to even speculate on.
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Old 03-21-2012, 10:29 PM   #15
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Well lets hope it's nothing too serious...
I will know more on Sunday after the compression test.
I will keep you posted?
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Old 03-23-2012, 04:48 AM   #16
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If you're talking about the 4 bolts for the no. 3 cylinder head cover (between the valve covers), then they're 14mm hex keys. I think I paid around $10 for one of those hex keys from NAPA awhile back, they were the only people in town that had one in stock
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Old 03-23-2012, 11:17 AM   #17
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Okay, thanks I will have to go out and get one at the local parts store.
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Old 03-28-2012, 07:48 PM   #18
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Well, did a compression test this weekend past and was not good...didn't get any readings on #1 and 2 and about 50 on #3, and around 25 on the rest..so just going to look around for a new engine.
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Old 03-28-2012, 10:42 PM   #19
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Quote:
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Well, did a compression test this weekend past and was not good...didn't get any readings on #1 and 2 and about 50 on #3, and around 25 on the rest..so just going to look around for a new engine.
You should at least take this one apart. It would be interesting to see what blew the engine? For grins and giggles, did you check the timing belt?
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Old 03-28-2012, 11:21 PM   #20
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Zero on one or two cylinders.... sure... seriously blew the HG, melted holes in pistons, etc. Low reading on a couple cylinders... sure, same possible causes as the former... Low readings on ALL cylinders... bad gauge, operator error, head lifted, or entire bottom end fell out.

I'm thinking you should pull the head before you start throwing money at unknown problems.
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