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Old 10-26-2010, 01:46 AM   #41
rjSupra
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Default some good news an real progress

to quote the WeezL from here: "Oh, it's on".

I got that damn bolt drilled out good. I was able to tear out 1/2 mm thick chunks after I enlarged it almost to the edge and full depth on the bolt hole. It was a tad off true and perfect perpendicular, but it worked out pretty well in the end, and I was able to tap it with a 12-20 english tap (since I hadn't the M6 1.5mm tap equivalent). It's a bit larger but with the correct bolt it should hold ok. It's a little loosey on the outer half of the enlarged hole, but I think with locktite or something and a stack of spacer washers it should hold ok, certainly better than running with no bolt.

Pretty psyched that I can resume this repair tomorrow. I am just waiting to go pick up a replacement turbo small line by the lower pipe inlet to be safe in the future while everything's out.

I think anyone who has this problem, take out the water housing (yeah an the CPS too since it's almost impossible to pull the 3rd bolt of that water jacket housing without the CPS removed - could be done with some slick tools and little hands I reckon but that is not my set up). Drill the broken bolt on a bench wood vise if you can, start really small and keep enlarging. When it's large enough - or in my case a little too large and loose to hold the original bolt - tap it with a tap and die kit, use the 12-20 tap, oil it frequently and keep removing it to clean out the shavings, re-oil an go gently, sometimes in and out slowly never turning really harder than a jar lid or you could break the tap off or maybe re-strip the new soft threads (?) Then note somewhere that you have a non std bolt size in which spot for you or any future owner that has to re-do the thermo down the line.
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Old 10-26-2010, 05:53 PM   #42
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Yep, that's the one. Right again. I just got it at Robbins for $7.49.
I wish my engine looked that clean. Have most of the parts to re-assemble just wish I had to time today to complete it but I can tell i don't so i might not be able to post an update until Friday evening at earliest but things are looking up in the short term.
Thanks Toyota Supra Forum!
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Old 01-04-2011, 06:26 AM   #43
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Default test driving car tomorrow - nervous as heck.

My car has been down this whole time. It's all back together and ready to try. Tried to test it tonight but dead batt won't take a charge, and my charger can't start the motor at 50 amps engine start mode - not enough juice, the car goes nuts (headlights flopping up and down) and clicking super loud noises and engine won't crank. C'mon you know what I'm talking about here right with low voltage on battery? (annoying)

Summary:
replaced Water pump (did not fix leak)
replaced belts
replaced thermostat and drilled 4mm hole - clipped off toggle (did not fix leak)
---
final stage two repairs / untested yet:
replaced "90 degree" angle hose under thermostat housing to the steel line that goes under the manifold and to back of engine
replaced water outlet housing gasket
(replaced optional turbo small hose that was not leaking while in there).

The car can idle and drive very slowly 30-40mph gently - no problem, no leaks.
At highway speed I have 2 - 5 minutes maybe before coolant bursts out leaking everywhere - all around the behind and under area of water pump. Cannot see where it is leaking from, only hear it, and see it dripping / pouring below.

If this was the metal line under the manifold next to the block that the 90 hose connects to that had failed, would it leak all the time (at idle / low speeds) and be more obvious?? I am worried that after all this I can't fix this leak I am going to have to give up on this car. I've been avoiding testing it out for a few weeks because I am so worried.
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Old 01-04-2011, 08:50 AM   #44
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Fill coolant to proper level in reservoir to remove birdcage light, fill brake fluid to proper level in master cylinder reservoir and that should remove the ebrake light.

Glad to hear it's up and running again, I was wondering how that fix went
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Old 01-04-2011, 11:08 PM   #45
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Default Cautious celebration! She Runs!!!

Ok, tossed new battery in her, and she more or less started right up.
Nice mellow idle. It's 25 degrees F here now.
I drove her about 30 miles through small country roads and then stop and go lights city driving for 20 minutes.
Then I dared to prod her up to about 50 and 60mph. No leaks after pulling over and checking the whole way.
I hammered the throttle pretty good and got on the boost about 4 times and was up to 60 and 65mph on side highway.
It all seems pretty good right now.
After a cool down in my new garage, no drips at all, and I undid the rad pressure cap and the fluid level looked the same. Levels looked ok in the overflow reservoir - although I need to tweak the level anyway, and my birdcage light is on (so is the e brake light but the car rolls in neutral).
So... after months down I might be able to drive it again! Of course I've got this nasty power steering leak to tackle next...
I guess the 90 hose was probably evil all along on this one (although could have been the water outlet housing gasket - I guess I don't know).

Thanks all for the help and input, thanks Toyota Supra forum, never could have done this without all your help!!!
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Old 01-18-2011, 12:12 AM   #46
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Default this repair seems a success finally!

So, I've driven the car about a tank of gas now, on the highway up to 80 mph.
Hit the turbo boost full at least 5-6+ times.
No coolant leak! Filled the res up correctly and got the stupid birdcage light to go off. That's the first time since I've owned this car.

Also, thanks for the tip, added brake fluid to the master cyl and got that brake idiot light to go off as well.

Now... at some point gotta fix the Power Steering leak. Pretty good leak.
and it failed inspection on it's two lower front ball joints. yuck.

And it has some pretty major low end power problems. It is gutless under 2500 rpm and I mean like a garbage truck fully loaded fast sometimes. Sometimes it peppier, but not normally. It also runs like absolute shit in the 1 to 25 degree F range, and I have to start it and let it run at least 10 minutes and the temp gauge up to normal (about 35% up on this car) and then it will drive. Starting cold, I can pretty much hit the gas in gear (AT) and it will almost not even drive at all. Just sits and ignores the gas pedal (until warm).

Thanks to the Supra Forum it's at least running again!!!
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