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Old 10-07-2010, 05:11 AM   #21
btwilson86
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Well, at least you got it back home. Hey, if you get a chance run over to your local auto parts store and give them this number: 20338. That's the Gates part number for that 90į hose. It comes a little long on one end, so you would have to trim to fit.

Oh yeah, and if they don't carry Gates products they should have a way of interchanging part numbers to find you one that they do have
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Old 10-07-2010, 03:45 PM   #22
rjSupra
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Default broke old thermo mount bolt, only 1 of 2 holding thermo & plan to solve leak I hope

I also neglected to mention I broke off the lower thermo mount bolt when I replaced the thermostat. Despite 12 miles and high over heat temp condition up the final killer hill, the thermo gasket area held dry.
But I guess I am going to remove the water jacket housing to:
A) have more clearance to track down mystery leak
B) naturally have clearance to drill out the broken bolt portion in the water jacket so I can re-attach the thermo with new bolt
C) replace the water housing gasket mount while I am in there in case that's the leak
D) have more clearance access to the just underneath 90 angle pre formed hose (toy part 16283, Gates part 20338, Dayco part D71178). The Dayco part does not look that close to it, although the parts store say it is a replacement. But I am skeptical and called around a lot until I located the Gates one at Robbins Auto parts (here in NE US) for $4.39 - last one in stock. Thanks again btwilson for the Gates part number info!
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Old 10-08-2010, 09:22 PM   #23
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5 minutes my *ss. I'd like to kick this car off a tall cliff right now.
5 hours and haven't even tried to take off the 90 angle hose under the thermostat housing. there's so much other crap in the way, almost zero clearance and my favorite 1+hr delay trying to fish out a rachet and mini extension (which I had to ghetto rig in the first place to be able to back the nuts off the water housing since there's no clearance.) PS fluid everywhere, and I just learned that in addition to a $60 - $110 PS pressure line, my complete rack is f*cked up and pouring fluid out either end. This is really been a great car the first 2 weeks. I knew the seller was lying when he said stupid shit like "It just needs some PS fluid and it's fine", and "it just needs some coolant - here I'll add a gallon and everything's fine". Don't worry i didn't believe that then and challenged him. I badgered down the price to 1400$ cash and now I am thinking that it may not have been a good idea.I think I hit the turbo 2x and enjoyed a few sunny days with top out and now nothing is going right with this.
I also enjoy having to call at least 5 to 10 parts stores to find basic parts for this car. And when they keep insisting I'm really asking for the thermostat gasket when I want a water outlet housing gasket. "Is it round, right?" Yeah, thanks, and thanks car too. I am going to go take another bitter pill now excuse me.
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Old 10-09-2010, 02:26 AM   #24
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Default 1 of those days, can't get / access 3rd bolt out to remove water housing

It's been 1 of those... maybe about 3 of them with this particular Supra.
I got the 90 angled coolant hose off the one at the front of the motor, underneath the thermostat and the water outlet housing.

I have 2 of 3 retaining nuts and bolts off the water housing, I need to get it out so I can drill out the snapped Thermostat bolt, and also to as a precaution replace the water housing gasket that mounts it to the block under the CPS (Cam Position Sensor). Speaking of the CPS, the 3rd nut is underneath and behind the CPS and there's (you guessed it) almost zero clearance to get a wrench, socket, rachet etc... in there. Anyone have a suggestion on how I can get this last nut out? I've already moved out of the way the PS reservoir and completely removed it's large long metal mount to have more access in this area.

ALSO, to be honest, I don't see catastrophic failure of the 90 angle short cooling hose I pulled out. One end is a bit softer and more swollen than the other end (the motor / block side), and the opposite side seems more normal and dry. I can only hope the slightly damp /wet swollen other end by the block was where under high temp and pressure over 2000 rpm there was a leak there forcing out of the joint. The leak I best pinpointed to that area. But it's all pretty blind science over here, can't see shit in that area. I can post some pics of the hose if that helps. I don't spy any cut or pinhole in the actual hose. And the Gates replacement hose, well it seems a bit short or barely long enough on one end, and the hose itself is not as a perfect pre formed 90 degree as the other one. Also looks smaller diameter gauge a bit, but maybe the old hose swelled and expanded a lot? It was kind of a bitch to get it out, and really resistant and I think mounting the other one back later won't be 'fun'. If the hose isn't the problem, and I can actually remove the water outlet housing and replace that gasket, if those two aren't the cause, then from what I understand there's only 1 more possibility, and that's the metal coolant line inside the heat shield / header area and I hear that's a complete headache to replace.
QUESTION: Any tips for removing that water housing (the third bolt at the highest spot on it towards the back of the car), without having to pull the CPS unit? I don't even have a clue how to re-align the CPS etc if I have to pull it, and frankly I don't even really know what the CPS does as it happens.
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Old 10-10-2010, 12:18 AM   #25
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Default figured out the game plan

Ok, figured out how to pull the CPS and set everything to TDC etc... with the TSRM posted here. So, just going to pull out the CPS, then the water housing to really get a good eye on that whole area and try to figure out better where the coolant leak is / was. Will put on new gasket to CPS and water outlet to help stave off future problems. Might do the lower rad hose pipe too, although it doesn't look that bad visually. Will try to post how it went in over the next few days (can't work on it tomorrow).
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Old 10-19-2010, 07:27 PM   #26
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Default can't believe how much time this car is sitting

Can't get the CPS off, cause I can't set the engine to TDC and then back it up since I don't have a rachet past 19mm size. What size is the crank pulley? Been searching all over, can't find the stat.
Is the crank pulley bolt a 22mm socket size?

Also, noticed that stupid car does not have a lug nut wrench for the spare, although it has a jack and wheel. Little good that does on the road without a tool to get off lug nuts. Unless I am utterly clueless where to find it. My car has a full size spare that lifts the rear floor up a lot and looks ridiculous, and had a jack squirreled away in the rear driver fender. Is that where a lug wrench would be as well? Is that normal to have the jack and / or parts moving around in a wheel fender - that seems pretty dumb. (was going to see if the wrench was same size - but figure now it's not). I put a gauge on the crank bolt and it measured different than 22mm. I checked a known 12mm bolt and that measured 9mm on the gauge from horizontal sides of the hex pattern. what the hell? is my gauge a p.o.s. or is there something incredibly and stupidly non-intuitive about 'nominal' and actual width sizing on bolts / nuts etc...? (I've actually done a bunch of work on cars / bike though you might assume not with all the problems I am having).

Stock car, so what size lug nuts are they? M12s x 1.5? Can't locate the size easily either.

I am in Chicago for conference and hope to get back on this repair this weekend. If I cannot get this car running without blowing coolant everywhere by end of first week of November, I am probably driving an Acura Integra (old but reliable) cross country and home to drive since this car is nothing but headaches so far. Might sell off the car, since it might be a little redundant to have two older coupe cars, one reliable and one not.
If anyone wants a car with no rust, in nice shape and likes to live in a garage, this might be your ticket. It's a auto Turbo but has every part to swap it to a 5 speed. I hate to be impatient with this car and like it a lot and want to love an trust it but (like many people) I have a very busy life and can't have a car that won't run and demands head gasket re-torquing maybe, and blows all it's fluid lines at random. I guess I am getting older and crabbier.
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Old 10-19-2010, 08:50 PM   #27
Bill UK
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Socket size for the crank pulley bolt is 19mm, lug nuts for wheels are 12mm x 1.5 pitch and just by chance my wheel lug nuts (which are not stock) are also 19mm A/F (Socket size) Donít give up just yet rj.
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Old 10-19-2010, 09:34 PM   #28
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Also I am pretty sure the socket size for the lug nuts on the sawblade wheels is a 21mm
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Old 10-19-2010, 10:29 PM   #29
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Default thanks again Bill

Thanks Bill

and for the encouragement too, I guess I need a little.
Is it possible though, that if the stock is 19mm that I have a much larger bolt? Some weird non OEM crazy large bolt? I know I have a 19mm socket and it's not even close to fitting, I also seem to remember my Integra's crank pulley bolt being 19mm for some reason when I changed the timing belt on it 6 years back.

Man, now that was a bitch of a job. I read the people's problems on here getting off the bolt and I sympathize with it - but only so much. Because the Integra is put on factory like 600 - 800 ft/lbs they say - way overkill and over done by mistake (by Godzilla robots those 'Teg forums rant). And it goes the WRONG way, so you can't bump the starter on it, and as the motor spins (like say in mine for 120,000 miles and 9 years), it tightens even more gradually. If anyone reads this, though, jack the car waay up, and use a 3-4 foot breaker bar, put it in 5th gear (manual trans), full brake (friend), and have another super strong friend (I couldn't do it and am very fit), use gym rat legs to push on the breaker bar with full force. That did it. Heating it to cherry red with a torch, , penetrating oil, using 2 different impact guns (1 pro auto techs personal gun), smacking it good with hammers to jostle it, did jack and sh*t. It's all about the crazy breaker bar my friends, and pure brute force.
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Old 10-20-2010, 08:33 PM   #30
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Default Stock sawblade wheel dimensions measurement data to share

Hi

Dug this up in response to my own question on another site:

Gen 3 sawblade stock wheels:

16 x 7
5 x 114.3mm
12mm x 1.5 lug nuts
60.1 offset

Apparently a Probe GT wheel is all the same, except that the offset is different and you need to have a stepup ring or whatever it's called to fill in the space and gap correctly.
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