7MGTE Build up suggestions 350hp - 400hp

[Supra Saiyan]

Car = Supra MKIII 7MGTE A/T (ALL STOCK RIGHT NOW)

I am looking for suggestions to my build. Here is a list of parts that I will be getting.. If you think the manufacture is crap or there is a better more reliable replacement out there. Please make the adjustment to my list.

I want to get 400WHP..
** M/T later this year for part of my weight reduction and speed increase plan (plus more fun) **
** Head gastket - DONE with metal gasket and APR bolts 75lb torqued **
** Head - Unknown head work was done in a shop by the previous owner, I do know gasket was done. 10k miles ago.. **

--Purchased--
Springs - Sustec gf210 (grip force)
Shocks - Koni yellows

--Need to buy-- (TOTAL $7835)
*Pre-Step* (Problem fixing) $285
Oil Drain plug gasket (4) - NAPA part #704-1076
Engine wire harness - 88 Turbo M/T or A/T (both the same)
Coil pack - 87-92 Coil pack (My'n has a melted clip holder)
*Step 1* (Looks, Tune-up) $160
Spark plug wires - NGK Laser Plat.
Spark plugs - NKG
Hose Kit - Black Silicone hose kit (water, heater, rad hoses, Vacuum hoses)
*Step 2* (Breathing) $680
Air filter system - Apexi Power Intake
Down pipe - Megan Racing 3in
Exhaust system - Custom 3in W/Dual 3in Muffler
*Step 3* (Handling, Safety, Looks) $1300
Breaks - Brembro OEM replacements
Rims + Tires - XXR-508 17x7 Front +25, 225/45/17 W All around / Toyo Proxes 4
*Step 4* (Power balancing) $2550
Air Flow Meter - Lexus AFM
Injectors - 550cc injectors
Fuel pressure regulator kit - Generic w/LIPP lines
Boost controller w/gauge - AEM Tru Boost Controller
Stand alone ecu - AEM
GET TUNED
*Step 5*(Power) $1000
Exhaust manifold - I6 Turbo Exhaust Manifold T4
Turbo upgrade - T04e 57 trim
Radiator - Fluidyne radiator
GET RE-TUNED
*Step 6* (Power, Final 400HP step) $1850
Oil squirters - Toyota OEM replacement
Oil pump - Toyota OEM replacement
Pistons - CP Pistons
Rods - Eagle Rods
FINAL RE-TUNE

All this should put me at 400WHP.. Though I am sure I tune to 550 safely. I don't want race gas though.. Flywheel and such are most likly needed.. Ugh.. I will research that and put it on my list.

[cre]

You could definitely hit 4 with those mods, but it still depends entirely on how well it's all tuned. On a stock bottom end I'd call it done at 350 though. Go with the NGK plugs, take your pick which flavoer, they all perform well... even the regular old copper ones.

[Supra Saiyan]

Originally Posted by cre

You could definitely hit 4 with those mods, but it still depends entirely on how well it's all tuned. On a stock bottom end I'd call it done at 350 though. Go with the NGK plugs, take your pick which flavoer, they all perform well... even the regular old copper ones.

Cre, thanks for the input. Ummm, well the shop around here gets a lot of biz, but how do I get a good tune? I mean.. I have 0 knowledge of the tuning aspect of things. What I mean is it sounds like a bunch of computer and math stuff. Where can I get some knowledge on tuning it. I mean, you guys here do an awesome job doing your cars on your own. I been doing more and more on my own and saving TONS of $$. How would I get the tune knowledge in my head..

(I was thinking tuning had to do with the ecu + all your mods that can equate into the HP/TQ Performance factor)

[Supra Saiyan]

What bottom end mods would you call good to keep my engine going at 350hp - 400hp for a long while? Also, what top end mods would you suggest if any?

I want power and reliability.. I don't want to keep having to crack her open due to other failures. I would like to get it done right so she runs the marathon hard and long!

[cre]

Originally Posted by Supra Saiyan

Cre, thanks for the input. Ummm, well the shop around here gets a lot of biz, but how do I get a good tune? I mean.. I have 0 knowledge of the tuning aspect of things. What I mean is it sounds like a bunch of computer and math stuff. Where can I get some knowledge on tuning it. I mean, you guys here do an awesome job doing your cars on your own. I been doing more and more on my own and saving TONS of $$. How would I get the tune knowledge in my head..

(I was thinking tuning had to do with the ecu + all your mods that can equate into the HP/TQ Performance factor)

Your car can only perform as well as the software tells it to... shitty tuning equals shitty performance no matter how good the hardware you've put in is.

How you tune varies a bit from one system to the next but the overall target values remail the same... when you get past the basic "get it running" level the tuning becomes very specific to that one engine... every little unique thing and all of the end desires require someone who car really feel it out more than just rust read the numbers and press buttons. I can't really recommend any one good source for reading up on tuning... haven't found any really. You just need to learn the theory and start doing it. I did read a bit and I started tuning my old N/A then I tuned a friend's car (retuned both of these MANY times) tuned a built Supra out here.. then another... and so on. Start with some "seat of the pants" tuning with an old Honda and then try tuning on a couple dyno runs... THEN work on the Supra.

This isn't one of those things I recommend that people do themselves... a couple digits off and next hard run you've melted a piston. It's a good thing to learn, but a lot of care must be taken.

Originally Posted by Supra Saiyan

What bottom end mods would you call good to keep my engine going at 350hp - 400hp for a long while? Also, what top end mods would you suggest if any?

I want power and reliability.. I don't want to keep having to crack her open due to other failures. I would like to get it done right so she runs the marathon hard and long!

You're really fine with a stock build (maybe some slightly more aggressive cams). I'd rebuild the bottom end (by the book), replace oil squirters, oil pump, pistons and rods would be excellent; and then I'd aim for the upper 300's.

[MA70-3.0GT]

Just one thing I'd add on the spark plug side of things, I don't know what anyone else's experiences have been over the last year or so but I felt that NGK plugs had lost that certain "something" (had endless fouling/misfire issues on other vehicles & not a few open-circuits in the resistor type plugs on my bike).

That said, the platinum jobbies in my supra when I got it have been just fine and are back in it now!...

[Supra Saiyan]

Originally Posted by MA70-3.0GT

Just one thing I'd add on the spark plug side of things, I don't know what anyone else's experiences have been over the last year or so but I felt that NGK plugs had lost that certain "something" (had endless fouling/misfire issues on other vehicles & not a few open-circuits in the resistor type plugs on my bike).

That said, the platinum jobbies in my supra when I got it have been just fine and are back in it now!...

I hear that all around, but I see a battle going on with believers and non believers. I am sticking to the NGK side and replacing them with the stock replacements of NGK Laser Platinum. Well at least all the computers at the shops keep coming up with it as recommended, some even say it was stock.

[cre]

NGK is what the car came with... regular NGK platinums. They're what you'll get when you buy "Toyota" boxed spark plugs.

Fouling is due to either running excessively rich or running the wrong temp. If you haven't changed anything on your car and are running the same temp plugs as always you've most likely got a fuel management problem somewhere (usually the AFM).

If you want to use a different brand make sure the insulator on the wire side is the same length as the NGKs. They're not made to the ISO spec which is shorter.... people have had a lot of trouble with fouling using ISO spec plugs if the boots don't seal very firmly (see: unless the wires are pretty much NEW).

[Supra Saiyan]

Originally Posted by cre

NGK is what the car came with... regular NGK platinums. They're what you'll get when you buy "Toyota" boxed spark plugs.

Fouling is due to either running excessively rich or running the wrong temp. If you haven't changed anything on your car and are running the same temp plugs as always you've most likely got a fuel management problem somewhere (usually the AFM).

If you want to use a different brand make sure the insulator on the wire side is the same length as the NGKs. They're not made to the ISO spec which is shorter.... people have had a lot of trouble with fouling using ISO spec plugs if the boots don't seal very firmly (see: unless the wires are pretty much NEW).

Ya, I will be going with NGK laser plats... <---Love this one

[mkiii-]

how much is it going to be o do those mods bc im interested in building up my mk3 to.