Valve Head Noise LOUD TAPPING

[nailhead432]

I have the EXACT same noise comming from my 87 N/A Surpa, in the exact same place and everything. I have been able to localize the noise as happening exactly when the cams line up w/ the timing marks, and further more, the noise is a lot louder on the intake cam rather than the exhaust cam.

I'll agree with the broken valve spring theory, unfortantly, I haven't had the time to confirm this yet. CRE is correct on a way to replace the valve springs with the head on the car, however if you have access to compressed air, I have always put the piston of that cylinder on TDC of the compression stroke and put about 120 psi of pressure in that cylinder and thats enough to keep the valves closed while you replace the spring. You will need the "special tool" required to compress the spring while pulling the locks on the retainers, unless your extremely strong and fast at being able to push that valve spring down and pulling them. Good luck putting them back on w/ the latter method. In short, buy the tool.

In the next few weeks, I might pull my cams out and see which one is bad for the sake of doing it, but b/c I also have a hell of a rod knock, I'm probably just going to replace my engine w/ a 7M-GTE motor instead. Good luck though and I'll stay tuned to see what you come up with. If I happen to find the time to pull my cams out, I'll try to post pics for you.

[batmmannn]

Got the plenum off, must say it was easy except for those bottom manifold bolts the one closest to the windshield was a BEAR I nearly stripped it trying to get it off. My 6 sided 12 MM went into another dimension when I dropped it working on the bolt. Has not show up yet, not under the car and not seen in the engine bay. Don't you love it when you have to drop what you are doing and drive 40 minute round trip to go get another $4.00 12 mm socket? Damn I hate that but now that the Y assembly is free I am relieved. I can clean up in there now and pull the valve covers and see what is wrong in there. Here are a couple of nasty pics for ya just to keep it real. Thanks You guys, its like having a master mechanic with a flash light by your side when your groping in the dark. What do you do with all this crap and hoses in the way just tie it back? Yes Nailhead I will post what I find in there. It's been a long time a coming... I just feel soooo bad taking away the squirrels little clubhouse like this. Lots of half eaten nuts under the Plenum in there....Scott

Is this the valve tool I need? Its called the valvemaster its $85 on ebay right now.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZFTaeu4GIPo

[robertsws]

What did you find wrong? I have this same problem and just can't figure it out. I didn't have this problem until after I removed the engine for the flywheel and clutch and did a head gasket job while I was at it. Put everything back together and now I have the exact same noice in the exact same place. I already checked and adjusted my valve clearances and helicoiled my exhaust manifold, replaced injectors with Rc engineering while I was at it. I could really use some insight.

[batmmannn]

I don't know I fixed my 5 speed Supra first and haven't gotten to the Black one yet. People have suggested it is in need of valve shimm adjustment, suggested that putting an extra washer between the distributer bolt and the head fixed it. Or there is a broken valve spring.

[MJG]

I am not a betting man. However, I will put my money on rod knock.

[Green7mgte]

christ I thought it was a pain in the arse to remove the valve covers on my turbo.. now im not really gonna complain seeing what you have to do. ill just shut up and take my 10 minutes worth of unbolting and be happy with it.

[robertsws]

Others have said that it is definitely not rod knock. I'm leaning towards valve lash, bad valve spring, or something clogging one of the oil passages causing oil not to lubricate something due to the fact that I had no problems before doing a head job and I had the head off for three months sitting under a tarp before puttin it back on.

[robertsws]

I'm just remembered that just before doing my head job I managed to suck up some water through my air intake and the engine died. I made sure to get the water out of my intercooler and started it back up and it ran ok, but now I am thinking that maybe this did some damage to the internals. I'm going to inspect for spun bearing and wear on the crank and connecting rods.

I've also started pricing JDM engines, specifically the 1jzgte. If I have to do an engine swap I might as well do a 1jz swap, right? If I do, I will have thousands of dollars of brand new parts on my 7mgte that have zero miles on them that will be available for sale.

I'm also considering selling it as is as I really need an imediate driver. There are many new parts installed and some not yet installed. If anyone is interested in something, let me know. That is going to help me make my decision about the engine swap.

Some of the new parts are listed below in my signiture, but I have more, just ask.