Rear end knocking under Acceleration and upon Deceleration

StonecoreTx · 04-25-2010, 08:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TripleC

Last night i got under the car and realized that one of the main bolts to the Differential was missing. So i figured what the hell i might as well pull out the other one take it to a parts store and find something similar Right!!! Wrong half way through backing the bolt out it broke the nut end off from inside the Subframe. Now i have to cut it off with a sawsall and begin surgery
OOOOHHHH SS######T
Attachment 2790
What now any Suggestions?
I thought about cutting an access hole in the subframe with a grinder or torch then weld in a new one but it is kind of an uneven surface and it would be hard to get a welder to fit under the car and in a blind hole to weld a bolt perfectly in place, unless i dropped the hole subframe? SOuds like alot of work
Take Diff out Drill out old hole with larger hole saw - weld bolt to piece of subframe then weld back in the piece i cut out ? I thought this would be the easyest

any other ideas, I didnt see any access holes on the frame so it looks like i am going to have to make my own.
Please help

I think I'm having the same problem...eccept I'm just missing one of the two diff mounting bolts near the drive shaft. I hope mine doesnt break during replacing it, after reading this i'm goanna get me some bolt breaker.

what size bolts/washers are these?

TripleC · 04-26-2010, 02:12 PM

Im sorry you have to deal with this. I got a replacement bolt for it but i cant remember . you better check with toyota for the thread bith and size. these things are completey Rusted and i would just start getting ready to performe some surgery on it.
Good luck

StonecoreTx · 04-26-2010, 05:31 PM

will do, my car has loads of rust, originally a northern car. the mounting bolt that is there is so bad you cant see the "10" on it. I hope it doesn't break during replacement.

http://www.boltdepot.com/Fastener-In...Bolt-Sizes.pdf

I'm thinking the bolt is 10mm x 1.5, 1.25, or 1.0..?

I would take out the rusted bolt and see what size but i'm scared the same thing might happen to me and have to drill it out, still not knowing what size it was lol.

TripleC · 04-26-2010, 05:34 PM

Dont Take it out unless you have to. Do your homework on finding out what size of bolt it is and save yoursefl the stress. The reason the bolt is missing in the first place is that is probably broke off inside when someone tried to remove it and that is why it isnt even there to begin with.
If you get the right sized bolt, Make sure you use an impact wrench to tr and tighten it. I think the slowness of me having to turn a wrench made my bolt seize faster.

StonecoreTx · 04-28-2010, 11:38 AM

Well a freind of mine had the bolt I needed from his Cressida build, which is the good news ( I belive it's a m14 x 35mm @ 1.25tp)

we both jacked up my car to put the bolt in yesterday and ran into quite a problem. the bolt holes where the diff mounts to the suframe are not aligned. spent an hour trying to get some play to somehow get it in but there was no luck. i'm guessing the subframe is tweaked seince there was only one mounting bolt..? =( the bolt goes in about halfway then taps the subframe, if you put your finger in the hole it feels like the hole is shifted like 1/4 inch to the side, if i use my pinky i can almost feel the cage nut inside the xmember but theres no way to get the holes to line up for the bolt to go in.

does this mean I've gotta get another subframe?!?! any ideas/options?

TripleC · 04-28-2010, 01:52 PM

Check the top of the Subframe cage that goes over the Rear end for cracks. It should not be missaligned and i have never herd about any differential swaps causeing the issue of not ligning up.
To fix your Problem you can take a hole saw and drill into the subframe where the bolt and cage are located.(this is what i did on both sides).
It wont take you too long to do but you will need to weld the hole you cut out back in (I used a washer i bought at ace hardware) after you put in your new nut . I removed the cage inside and made my own design.
basically a piece of flat 1 inch steel with a Bolt welded on to one end so it had a lever or pivit point to press agains if i tightened or loosened them.
it sounds like something else is wrong. Check the Subframe next to the tank there are 4 mounting bolts you could have broken one of them and it twisted the Subframe.

StonecoreTx · 05-03-2010, 06:59 PM

Well this weekend I had some spare time and jacked up the car again for round 3.

the car won with a huge crack in the subframe!
I dont have a pic yet but It's about the same size if not a bigger gap and place as yours pictured above where the shaft meets the diff. =(

Is it possible to repair? I belive this is why my diff mounting bolt holes dont allign, and creates the clunking noise when not under load.

I'm planning on dropping the subframe and welding the crack hopfully everything will align if it's solid again? or should I hold out for another subframe?

Tripple C, what are you going to do about yours?

04-26-2010, 02:12 PM	#2
TripleC 3" Exhaust Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Fort Collins, CO Posts: 103	Im sorry you have to deal with this. I got a replacement bolt for it but i cant remember . you better check with toyota for the thread bith and size. these things are completey Rusted and i would just start getting ready to performe some surgery on it. Good luck __________________ 1JZGTE ,R154, Hallman Boost Controller, HKS bov, HKS Mushroom top Air Filter, HKS Front Mount Intercooler, Greedy Turbo Timer, PLX300 AFC, Custom Divorced Y-pipe, Custom Intercooler Pipeing, RS-R Concept Exhaust, Optima Red Top Battery, Strut bar Brembo Rotors, A1 Traction arms, Megan Coilovers, Stern ST 2 wheels rear 265x30 r19 - front 245x35 r19, New Front Lip, 18 x 8 and 18 x 9 MRR HR2 with whatever for Drift treads 2 additional C12A turbo's(Extra)

04-26-2010, 05:31 PM	#3
StonecoreTx Intake Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Austin,Tx Posts: 41	will do, my car has loads of rust, originally a northern car. the mounting bolt that is there is so bad you cant see the "10" on it. I hope it doesn't break during replacement. http://www.boltdepot.com/Fastener-In...Bolt-Sizes.pdf I'm thinking the bolt is 10mm x 1.5, 1.25, or 1.0..? I would take out the rusted bolt and see what size but i'm scared the same thing might happen to me and have to drill it out, still not knowing what size it was lol. __________________ 86.5 mk3 supra 7mgte r154

04-26-2010, 05:34 PM	#4
TripleC 3" Exhaust Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Fort Collins, CO Posts: 103	Dont Take it out unless you have to. Do your homework on finding out what size of bolt it is and save yoursefl the stress. The reason the bolt is missing in the first place is that is probably broke off inside when someone tried to remove it and that is why it isnt even there to begin with. If you get the right sized bolt, Make sure you use an impact wrench to tr and tighten it. I think the slowness of me having to turn a wrench made my bolt seize faster. __________________ 1JZGTE ,R154, Hallman Boost Controller, HKS bov, HKS Mushroom top Air Filter, HKS Front Mount Intercooler, Greedy Turbo Timer, PLX300 AFC, Custom Divorced Y-pipe, Custom Intercooler Pipeing, RS-R Concept Exhaust, Optima Red Top Battery, Strut bar Brembo Rotors, A1 Traction arms, Megan Coilovers, Stern ST 2 wheels rear 265x30 r19 - front 245x35 r19, New Front Lip, 18 x 8 and 18 x 9 MRR HR2 with whatever for Drift treads 2 additional C12A turbo's(Extra)

04-28-2010, 11:38 AM	#5
StonecoreTx Intake Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Austin,Tx Posts: 41	Well a freind of mine had the bolt I needed from his Cressida build, which is the good news ( I belive it's a m14 x 35mm @ 1.25tp) we both jacked up my car to put the bolt in yesterday and ran into quite a problem. the bolt holes where the diff mounts to the suframe are not aligned. spent an hour trying to get some play to somehow get it in but there was no luck. i'm guessing the subframe is tweaked seince there was only one mounting bolt..? =( the bolt goes in about halfway then taps the subframe, if you put your finger in the hole it feels like the hole is shifted like 1/4 inch to the side, if i use my pinky i can almost feel the cage nut inside the xmember but theres no way to get the holes to line up for the bolt to go in. does this mean I've gotta get another subframe?!?! any ideas/options? __________________ 86.5 mk3 supra 7mgte r154

04-28-2010, 01:52 PM	#6
TripleC 3" Exhaust Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Fort Collins, CO Posts: 103	Check the top of the Subframe cage that goes over the Rear end for cracks. It should not be missaligned and i have never herd about any differential swaps causeing the issue of not ligning up. To fix your Problem you can take a hole saw and drill into the subframe where the bolt and cage are located.(this is what i did on both sides). It wont take you too long to do but you will need to weld the hole you cut out back in (I used a washer i bought at ace hardware) after you put in your new nut . I removed the cage inside and made my own design. basically a piece of flat 1 inch steel with a Bolt welded on to one end so it had a lever or pivit point to press agains if i tightened or loosened them. it sounds like something else is wrong. Check the Subframe next to the tank there are 4 mounting bolts you could have broken one of them and it twisted the Subframe. __________________ 1JZGTE ,R154, Hallman Boost Controller, HKS bov, HKS Mushroom top Air Filter, HKS Front Mount Intercooler, Greedy Turbo Timer, PLX300 AFC, Custom Divorced Y-pipe, Custom Intercooler Pipeing, RS-R Concept Exhaust, Optima Red Top Battery, Strut bar Brembo Rotors, A1 Traction arms, Megan Coilovers, Stern ST 2 wheels rear 265x30 r19 - front 245x35 r19, New Front Lip, 18 x 8 and 18 x 9 MRR HR2 with whatever for Drift treads 2 additional C12A turbo's(Extra)

05-03-2010, 06:59 PM	#7
StonecoreTx Intake Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Austin,Tx Posts: 41	Well this weekend I had some spare time and jacked up the car again for round 3. the car won with a huge crack in the subframe! I dont have a pic yet but It's about the same size if not a bigger gap and place as yours pictured above where the shaft meets the diff. =( Is it possible to repair? I belive this is why my diff mounting bolt holes dont allign, and creates the clunking noise when not under load. I'm planning on dropping the subframe and welding the crack hopfully everything will align if it's solid again? or should I hold out for another subframe? Tripple C, what are you going to do about yours? __________________ 86.5 mk3 supra 7mgte r154

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