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Old 02-18-2010, 03:21 PM   #1
TripleC
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I think My rear end is starting to show signs of ware. It just started clunking a couple days ago. I have been driving it hard lately so i am under the impression i could have jacked the crush sleeve. I went under the car yesterday and the drive shaft had about a 1/5 turn rotation of play and i could feel it pop through the drive shaft and here the noise resinate through my Traction arms for the noticable poping sound. well i tightend my traction arm that was a little loose to see if this would help. It did not help at all!

Do i just need to replace fluids?
do you think i jacked the Crush Sleeve??(what i think)
Or have i done more damage then i thought?
(The problem is in the diff and not bushings or subframe)
It is still driveable and there is no sound until i shift then i here it. what do you guys think.
PS it is easy to here at slow speeds but the car is loud and i cant seem to here it as much from 30-50..
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Last edited by TripleC; 02-19-2010 at 02:19 PM.
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Old 02-19-2010, 02:06 PM   #2
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Last night i got under the car and realized that one of the main bolts to the Differential was missing. So i figured what the hell i might as well pull out the other one take it to a parts store and find something similar Right!!! Wrong half way through backing the bolt out it broke the nut end off from inside the Subframe. Now i have to cut it off with a sawsall and begin surgery
OOOOHHHH SS######T
Click image for larger version

Name:	Differential bolt 003.jpg
Views:	893
Size:	223.6 KB
ID:	2790
What now any Suggestions?
I thought about cutting an access hole in the subframe with a grinder or torch then weld in a new one but it is kind of an uneven surface and it would be hard to get a welder to fit under the car and in a blind hole to weld a bolt perfectly in place, unless i dropped the hole subframe? SOuds like alot of work
Take Diff out Drill out old hole with larger hole saw - weld bolt to piece of subframe then weld back in the piece i cut out ? I thought this would be the easyest

any other ideas, I didnt see any access holes on the frame so it looks like i am going to have to make my own.
Please help
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Last edited by TripleC; 02-19-2010 at 08:15 PM.
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Old 02-19-2010, 06:26 PM   #3
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I'd consider just cutting an opening large enough to fit the head of a spanner and not welding the nut in place.... I can't recall how well fortified that area is though; Some minor reinforcement may be needed if you want to keep the access port open.
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Old 02-19-2010, 06:33 PM   #4
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Cre on in my hunting for the answer i have seen a few Broken Subframes in these exact spots. Now i am sure those guys had tons of power i an looking to be between 375 what i have now and 500 so i am not sure if i should or shouldnt weld something in. Right now i am considering Welding a Nut to a Rectangular piece of metel and sliding that in to the opening i create. I think this would help hold it in position, Make it so i only have exterior welding to do and be effective in securing it for future removal when and if it is needed. I think i will do a write up on it so everyone can see what i did if they encounter this situation
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Old 02-19-2010, 06:41 PM   #5
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The stock nut isn't welded in; it sits inside a metal box which is welded in. I suppose there may have been some revision or early version where the nut wasn't free, but none of those I've worked on have been welded directly in. Putting the nut free in a piece of U channel and tacking that down, similar to the stock arrangement, might not be too difficult.

A break in the place you're talking about isn't a power thing... it's a torque and excess play thing. Your diff's been pounding on it like a slide hammer... this could have happened in a Honda. Time to start going over the car and torquing all the critical fasteners... start with the subframe fasteners next.
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Old 02-19-2010, 08:14 PM   #6
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What if i welded it to one of the far ends of the u channel. wouldnt it act like a lever and hold the bolt in place if i offset it to one side. this way it could move a little and not need to be welded in but would also secure the nut for install and removal. I could then drill a hole in the bottom and fill it between the Piece of Uchannel and the Bottom of the Subframe.
I am not sure how to break away the cap inside the frame i guess ill just have to use a large srew driver and some pliers to get it out. Punching it from the bottom is also an option since the hole will serve mainly to scoup out the pieces.
Here are some pictures of the subframe.
Should i drill into the side of it or should i go from the bottom next to where the original mount is and hope my custom angled nut piece (LMAO)will fit in and work
Attached Thumbnails
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ID:	2788   Click image for larger version

Name:	Differential bolt 006.jpg
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Size:	140.4 KB
ID:	2789  
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Old 02-20-2010, 04:28 AM   #7
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Welding the nut to a floating piece of U channel is not a good idea. If the clamping surface is uneven you increase the likeliness of the nut placing an uneven load on the fastener with the U channel acting as a lever; I'm certain this is the reason for the original method of construction.

I would go at it from the side myself. It depends on how large of an aperture you need and what you're using to cut with and weld with though.
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Old 02-22-2010, 02:48 PM   #8
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SO S### hit the fan on Friday when i went home. I looked at the project at hand and with more light realized that the worst that could have happened did. Subframe Broken in Half.Click image for larger version

Name:	Broken Subframe 002.jpg
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ID:	2803
So since this is going to be my Drift car and sometimes Daily vehicle i figured i will just weld the subframe back together and Fix the broken Cap for the Square nut thats in the subframe. i welded a nut to a piece of Steel and fit it into the Frame which worked perfectly and i put the circle that i cut witht he hole saw and filled in the gaps (plus i laid down a little extra metel for good looks. LOL). I had to do the same thiing to the other side as it was originally like this (past owner never fixed) and definetly added to the broken subframe i had. I used a Grade 8 Washer from Home depot to fill the hole this time which was easy'r then the orignal frame and thicker. (i finished this entire project in about 6 hrs)All in all I am going to drive it hard this week after the snow melts and see if i can get the frame to crack again if it does i will reweld it again and put in some extra metel in to get it to hold the subframe together.
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Old 04-25-2010, 08:56 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TripleC View Post
Last night i got under the car and realized that one of the main bolts to the Differential was missing. So i figured what the hell i might as well pull out the other one take it to a parts store and find something similar Right!!! Wrong half way through backing the bolt out it broke the nut end off from inside the Subframe. Now i have to cut it off with a sawsall and begin surgery
OOOOHHHH SS######T
Attachment 2790
What now any Suggestions?
I thought about cutting an access hole in the subframe with a grinder or torch then weld in a new one but it is kind of an uneven surface and it would be hard to get a welder to fit under the car and in a blind hole to weld a bolt perfectly in place, unless i dropped the hole subframe? SOuds like alot of work
Take Diff out Drill out old hole with larger hole saw - weld bolt to piece of subframe then weld back in the piece i cut out ? I thought this would be the easyest

any other ideas, I didnt see any access holes on the frame so it looks like i am going to have to make my own.
Please help
I think I'm having the same problem...eccept I'm just missing one of the two diff mounting bolts near the drive shaft. I hope mine doesnt break during replacing it, after reading this i'm goanna get me some bolt breaker.

what size bolts/washers are these?
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Old 04-26-2010, 02:12 PM   #10
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Im sorry you have to deal with this. I got a replacement bolt for it but i cant remember . you better check with toyota for the thread bith and size. these things are completey Rusted and i would just start getting ready to performe some surgery on it.
Good luck
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