checking out an 86 mk3 tomorrow

[oregonjoe]

Again - this is fhere spark plug removal is helpful. With plugs removed yo can get a timming light on the #1 wire and crank engine to set distrub to get close enough to fire up.

With mine - I just set distrib half way and was close enoungh to get going.

It is very important to get distrub back in right so timming in not off - assuming timming belt was all lined up correct.

If you don't want to remove plugs - you can try cranking while rotating distrib slightly plus or minus. One way cranking will go easier - other way harder.

With plugs removed you can check compression to see is valve timming is OK and also check for wet cylinders for fuel injectors.

Any vacuum ports not connected will also hard start or not idle.

Even though its EFI, open the throttle a bit while starting to bypass the idle control if it not connected correctly.

If it backfires its getting fuel and spark - so timming is going to be important.

I always put a light on my crank before trying to start as a miss timed enginge can lead to bad things that undo all the hard work.

[oregonjoe]

When putting the distrib back in - be sure the center of the rotor blade is lined up on the #1 spark wire terminal when crank is TDC on fire stroke (remember its TDC twice, once on fire and once on exhaust so be sure you got the right one.)

You can put the distrub cap to locate the #1 terminal and then mark the mark the housing with a perm marker so you can remove the cap to see the rotor . Be sure to rotate crank severl rev by hand to be sur the rotor always goes back to #1 terminal when at TDC on crank.

This will get close enough to start.

[cvbikeguy]

Originally Posted by oregonjoe

When putting the distrib back in - be sure the center of the rotor blade is lined up on the #1 spark wire terminal when crank is TDC on fire stroke (remember its TDC twice, once on fire and once on exhaust so be sure you got the right one.)

You can put the distrub cap to locate the #1 terminal and then mark the mark the housing with a perm marker so you can remove the cap to see the rotor . Be sure to rotate crank severl rev by hand to be sur the rotor always goes back to #1 terminal when at TDC on crank.

This will get close enough to start.

holy sh*t. ok im sure this is the prolem. i didnt read any of this when putting the car back together.

[cvbikeguy]

last time i listen to a guy with a tsi

[cre]

Originally Posted by cvbikeguy

last time i listen to a guy with a tsi

Dumbass.

[cre]

As long as it's all zero'd out you should land pretty close to 0* of advance with the distributor bolted in the center of it's range. Unless you're off a tooth or more on a gear there's no room in the adjustment slide to be off more than 15*... I really don't see the point in this.

[cvbikeguy]

Originally Posted by cre

As long as it's all zero'd out you should land pretty close to 0* of advance with the distributor bolted in the center of it's range. Unless you're off a tooth or more on a gear there's no room in the adjustment slide to be off more than 15*... I really don't see the point in this.

so all i need to do is set everything to 0.

the cams are already lined up with the crank. but for the dist. this hash mark has to be pointing up also?

[oregonjoe]

Put crank at TDC of Compression Stroke (if valve covers are off this easy to see when intake valve has rotated and closed)

If everthing is back together you will remove #1 spark plug and put wodden dowel or long straw into cylinder and rotate engine till it tops out and TDC mark on crank.


Then with #1 spark terminal marked on Distrib housing. Put distrib back in and note center of rotor blade aligned with mark. If not aligned, lift out distrib half way till you can rotate the rotor one nothch on the gear teeth and slide all the way back down and recheck. Keep doing this one tooth at a time till you get he rotor blade centered on the #1 spark terminal.

Then set distrib half way on it adjustment travel and tighten down. Recheck by rotationg crank and note if rotor alwys aligns with #1 termianl on cap.

[cvbikeguy]

thanks everyone. well sadly i got to go to a funeral now. ill finish up later

[cvbikeguy]

Originally Posted by oregonjoe

Again - this is fhere spark plug removal is helpful. With plugs removed yo can get a timming light on the #1 wire and crank engine to set distrub to get close enough to fire up.

With mine - I just set distrib half way and was close enoungh to get going.

It is very important to get distrub back in right so timming in not off - assuming timming belt was all lined up correct.

If you don't want to remove plugs - you can try cranking while rotating distrib slightly plus or minus. One way cranking will go easier - other way harder.

With plugs removed you can check compression to see is valve timming is OK and also check for wet cylinders for fuel injectors.

Any vacuum ports not connected will also hard start or not idle.

Even though its EFI, open the throttle a bit while starting to bypass the idle control if it not connected correctly.

If it backfires its getting fuel and spark - so timming is going to be important.

I always put a light on my crank before trying to start as a miss timed enginge can lead to bad things that undo all the hard work.

put a light on your crank? also i was going through the TSRM and noticed i didnt align the grooves in the distributer with the cam or what not? i was told i could just shove in the distributer because it didnt need a specific placement