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Old 11-03-2009, 12:54 PM   #1
MA70-3.0GT
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Right I'm back at last & before i finish reading your reply can I just apologise for using more Brit-isms here, NOS meaning to me "New Old Stock" as in an unused boxed item that's sat on a dealers shelf from back when these cars were current (Airflow Meter was replaced with secondhand and then New Old Stock item) and not the block-splitting, head cracking, rod-spewing goodness that is !!!

Anyway, sorry for that indiscretion. I'm off to read the rest of your reply now... There's no "blush" smiley that I can see or I'd use that...

EDIT-: OK firstly I really should check the fault codes once I find the thread on how to do that again (saw it the other day but forgot what pins) and I will do once I've got the car home. I should also sort out my profile & fill you in a bit on my background.
I'm not another of the doubtless many clueless kids out there who see a big black Supra & think "there's MY penis extension sorted!", I've been into cars and bikes all of my 28 years on Gods earth & the Supra will be car number 30-odd that I've owned/worked on. I have a fair amount of experience working on more complicated motors, having owned a couple of BMW 7 series & Jaguar XJ6's previously too & I'm just a noob to Toyotas as opposed to a complete vehicular noob.

Also, the Supra I'm looking at is from a guy I know who runs an engine rebuilding business & has had a full engine rebuild done by him (head skimmed, valves ground & shimmed, rebore, new cams/pistons/rings/bearings/seals/water pump, exchanged re-con turbo, the whole nine-yards basically).
The story is that he did this work about 4 years ago & the owner promptly paid up & then vanished, since it's been stored so long on his site he's now taken ownership (storage charges being more than the car will ever be worth) & has the paperwork in his name. As there's still a running fault i.e. the idle problem I described, he just wanted rid & I wanted rid of my old Mitsubishi Pajero too so we did a swap.

Aside from the idle fault which from reading threads on here I believe could well be as simple as setting up the TPS & re-adjusting the timing, as well as removing the dump valve in favour of the recirc. & finding any missing vacuum pipes, there's nothing wrong that I can find mechanically/electrically or even corrosion. Plus it has a nice set of 18" alloys & new tyres worth more than the Pajero on their own!
Anyway I'm gonna stop rambling now, suffice to say you don't need to worry about me baing carried away with the emotion of the situation (which I certainly am!), because I've evaluated the deal & I'm definitely coming away with the better end of it no matter what happens...

Last edited by MA70-3.0GT; 11-03-2009 at 01:15 PM.
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Old 11-03-2009, 01:26 PM   #2
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Oh, and speaking of vacuum pipes, where the one for the dump valve/BOV/recirc. valve, whatever you care to call it, runs across the top of the head (where the rubber hose connects to the steel pipe) there's another steel vac. pipe underneath that which has nothing connected at either end. What is that one for & more importantly to me, where should the pipes run to. I can't see any vacant connectors on the manifold anywhere but surely there's got to be something missing there...

EDIT-: CRE you are a star, found the answer on this thread: http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...o-lead-to.html

Looks like someone's been messing before the motor was rebuilt as it was just put back as it arrived, which looks nothing like the diagram! At least I've got somewhere to start playing...

Just one more Q, what is the part on the fuel rail, numbered 23280 on the injection diagram? pressure regulator?

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Old 11-03-2009, 05:05 PM   #3
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ROFL!!! Ok, I'm sorry... seems the communications difficulty is mine. Hadn't heard tick over before and should have looked it up and generally when people are talking about cars around here NOS refers to nitrous oxide systems. I do know the acronym for new old stock though, standard ebay search phrase when I'm searching for bike parts. Anyway, don't worry about the "Brit-isms" my vocabulary could always use some expanding... as long as we end up on the same page it's all fine.

I'll get back to you on the rest of your posts later when I have a bit more time.
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Old 11-04-2009, 07:19 AM   #4
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Okay, let's fill in a couple gaps:

Diagnostics codes:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTi...ror_codes.aspx


Vacuum Routing (multiple references, Toyota really dropped the ball on documenting where some of them run):
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...spx?F=1708&P=3
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...spx?F=2211&P=2
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...spx?F=2501&P=1
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...spx?F=1201&P=2
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...spx?F=8717&P=1
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...spx?F=8408&P=1
This lists sizes: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTips/vacuum_hose.aspx


TPS Inspection and Calibration:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...ction=FI&P=100

Idle Speed Controller (It's not unheard of for these to get enough detritus built up inside that the ECU is no longer able to keep a regular idle speed... cleaning is cheap and easy and may be all the fix you need):
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...ction=FI&P=106

BPV (Bypass Valve/recirculating/stock setup) vs BOV (Blow Off Valve/Dump Valve/vents to atmosphere):
http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...rculation.html





Yes, 23280 is the fuel pressure regulator.
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Old 11-04-2009, 07:23 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MA70-3.0GT View Post
'm not another of the doubtless many clueless kids out there who see a big black Supra & think "there's MY penis extension sorted!"
Whew.... that's great! I'm so sick of dealing with them. One nice thing about these cars though is that owners like that don't tend to last long with these cars as they either find very quickly that they can't afford all the mistakes (these cars are not cheap); Or, they learn that if they want to see the car keep running they just need to shut up and pay someone who knows what they're doing to fix everything.
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Old 11-06-2009, 05:03 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cre View Post
Whew.... that's great! I'm so sick of dealing with them. One nice thing about these cars though is that owners like that don't tend to last long with these cars as they either find very quickly that they can't afford all the mistakes (these cars are not cheap); Or, they learn that if they want to see the car keep running they just need to shut up and pay someone who knows what they're doing to fix everything.

Orrrr, stick a huge dry nitrous shot through it (because nitrous is just another word for cheap power, innit...!) & blow the poor thing to bits when it leans out... Anyway, I've not been able to do much in the way of fiddling with the car since the other day as the weather's been purest British sh!te & I'm not much for standing in the pouring rain with bits of induction system & plugs removed from expensive motors. Hopefully the paperwork'll be sorted in the next couple of weeks & then I can get it home, covered and started on.

Thanks for the links, I've got plenty of printing out to do before I start rectifying the intake & vacuum systems anyhow so hopefully that & drooling over MA70 videos on youtube should keep me busy for a while.
I'll no doubt be back online once a bit of progress, or otherwise, is made so till then Cheers & see ya...
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Old 11-09-2009, 12:10 PM   #7
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Right I've just got back from a (very cold) session of vacuum pipe route/integrity-checking & I think everything's where it should be now. One thing I did notice was that the pipe to the fuel pressure regulator was split. Lucky it was long enough to cut the knackered portion off.

Now I'm assuming (correct me if I'm wrong) that as well as increasing pressure on boost it would also be affected by vacuum at idle or lack thereof, and could be one cause of a rich condition off boost before leaning out on boost... Anyhow, I'm just waiting on batteries to charge before I go back & spin it over again and find out.

I could do with finding a new accordian pipe too as the original's got some cracks which I've sealed with tape for the moment, the damn thing's like glass!!!
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Old 11-09-2009, 05:08 PM   #8
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Meant to say, the diag test showed code 51 (switch signal) & lists the TPS not having an IDL signal as a possible cause, or the "A/C switch. A/C circuit & A/C amplifier". What's A/C stand for in this case, not aircon obv.?...

Anyway, first chance I get I'm going to calibrate the TPS, although I can't do the timing till I can get the swine started again (Might just be out of petrol now though). Just need to find out about the A/C thing too.

EDIT-: OK so it was aircon, just never clicked that it'd be integrated into the idle circuit. Now I think of it, it has to be to bump the idleup when the compressor kicks in! Anyhow I guess the 51 is just telling me to do the TPS so I'll go do that tomorrow.
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'89 MA70 Supra GT aero 3.0turbo JDM, Rebuilt motor, K&N intake, 3" stainless turbo-back. New turbo and braided line kit...

'89 Honda NC27 400, NC23 cams, open pipe, PC36a shock & possibly Showa USD forks...

'83 Yamaha 29R XJ750E-II, number 69 off the line, only runner in the country? Original except Koni shocks

'95 Honda PC26 CB500R, Winter hack, hateful, trying to sell it
I'm not paranoid, they really ARE after me!!!

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Old 11-12-2009, 04:28 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MA70-3.0GT View Post
One thing I did notice was that the pipe to the fuel pressure regulator was split....

...the fpr would also be affected by vacuum at idle or lack thereof, and could be one cause of a rich condition off boost before obviously leaning out on boost...
Anyone?... does the line to the fpr result in a lower fuel rail pressure under vacuum (i.e. at idle) or does it just serve to increase it under boost?

Either way I can't do much till Saturday (payday, roll on....) now 'cause I need to put some petrol in it...
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'89 Honda NC27 400, NC23 cams, open pipe, PC36a shock & possibly Showa USD forks...

'83 Yamaha 29R XJ750E-II, number 69 off the line, only runner in the country? Original except Koni shocks

'95 Honda PC26 CB500R, Winter hack, hateful, trying to sell it
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Old 11-12-2009, 06:32 PM   #10
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The reference port is used across the board to control fuel pressure whether the manifold is under vacuum or pressurized. So, yes, it lower the pressure as the manifold pressure lowers. Without the reference line connected you would run rich at vacuum and lean at boost.
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