Is this oil?

DarkSupra2.5 · 10-12-2009, 01:28 AM

You said you had your oil changed recently? Have you checked your oil filter to make sure it's tight? Cause from what you describe it's most likely oil and you should probably make sure your oil level is good before you drive it again.

Krem · 10-12-2009, 07:19 PM

well, it could be anything now I'm guessin... not really sure...

Shady auto mechanics that inspected my car (wouldn't let them work on it after trying to take me for a fool) told me I had oil pan gasket split, but the two weeks prior, I hadn't noticed any leaks... and even when I had my oil changed earlier that morning at my buddy's jiffy lube, my buddy looked over the car and said I got a good deal... no leaks... no crack in gasket...

We had a couple of cold days here in vegas, and it was after that I noticed the oil? on the ground.. I tried to collect more in a cup, but after I noticed it, the weather was warmer and nothing was leaking... so I thought it could very well be oil seaping thru the crack in the gasket... then thought maybe this could be why my timing got fucked... cam shaft/valves not getting lubed right and not rotating as they're supposed to? (eh, sounds likely anyways)

Another concern of mine is it might be coolant. Tho I saw an amber color moreso than green... I pulled my #6 plug wire and the wire itself had some condensation build up on the sides... something that would only be present if water were heated to a vapor inside the compartment... so I'm also worried it could be a BHG leaking coolant...

However, shop called after trying to run diags on my car... fuel pump and pressure checked good :\.. getting spark all the way thru to the plug... has compression as well.. Was told my battery was dead? (was good when I parked her 3 weeks ago) and my computer codes were all cleared out as a result... so I'm really hoping the problem isn't ECU related...

Atm, they're going to pull o2 sensor and test exhaust system... then timing if that doesn't fix it. I'm just afraid it's going to be ECU and I'll now be liable to pay for o2 sensor labor and work done on the timing since they couldn't find anything wrong under their diagnostic tests... and all said and done, after dropping several hundred between tows and labor costs, I've still got a broken car till I can buy a new ECU...

Anyone that can ease my whoa's by debunking my logic? or is this a very likely probability I might be facing really soon?

Krem · 10-19-2009, 01:05 AM

Ok, so it's not oil, it's not gas, it's not trans. oil or even brake fluid... it's my brake fluid. Noticed finally when after nearly a week and a half of leaking, my brake light finally came on in my instrument panel. I've had a car w/ cracked brake lines before and it leaked out nearly over night... so I'm guessin this is probably a seal or fitting somewhere down the line... for now, I add some when I lose some and hope to get it fixed in November.. just had the brakes done too.. suspecting a fail on part of the mechanic who did the job, since I'm also hearing squeeking and the new pads and rotors have no more than 300 miles on them... but how do I go about having him repair it w/o charging me (since it's been sitting for 3 weeks waiting after brake job, waiting for a distributor repair)?

jvginpdx · 10-20-2009, 10:16 PM

Brake fluid can be hard on paint. Chances are that any paint the brake fluid touchs will soften or peel off. Consider that "saving money" by fixing it later could result in a car wreck sooner rather than later.......

Krem · 10-20-2009, 11:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jvginpdx

Brake fluid can be hard on paint. Chances are that any paint the brake fluid touchs will soften or peel off. Consider that "saving money" by fixing it later could result in a car wreck sooner rather than later.......

it's not a matter of should I fix it now or wait... it's a matter of "I don't have enough cash to pay anyone to even lift my car, let alone look at it."

It's not touching the body paint, luckily, but I do see it flaking some stuff off of the frame... dunno if they paint the frame, but I'd imagine a solid chunk of metal wouldn't flake like that... but I could be wrong since rust can do just that to a car... it's been leaking about 2 weeks and I intend to fix it in another 2 1/2 to 3 weeks... not something I'm gunna be driving on for long time..

cre · 10-21-2009, 12:19 AM

You're just screaming for trouble... well, just in case, get used to downshifting and engine braking and make sure your E-brake is 100%.

CanadianBak'inSupra · 10-21-2009, 12:30 AM

the frame is probly coated in an "under coating" i do not know if brake fluid disolves that stuff..
you should really learn to do as much on a car yourself, rather than paying someone...

Krem · 10-21-2009, 01:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cre

You're just screaming for trouble... well, just in case, get used to downshifting and engine braking and make sure your E-brake is 100%.

I've had my brake light come on once, that's how I knew it was brake fluid... and I've added fluid to replace what I lost.. so hopefully she'll be ok till the 1st of the month.

Heh, I told you I had leaks and kinks to work out... I thought this car was in good condition when I bought it... just my luck, two weeks later it starts falling apart. My first car did the same... after two weeks, alternator went, then had to replace brakes, then alternator went twice more.. the last one actually made contact with my hood and made my car lunge and act like it was dying out... I popped the hood before it could set fire or melt the hood seriously... only made a small bubble in the hood. After this, the brake lines cracked on my way from Vegas to Salt Lake City... Stayed in St. George, Ut for the night... when I went out in the morning, brake fluid all over my wheel, tire and the ground. I was out of fluid completely. Had to drive that back to vegas at 40mph w/ hazards... outside the city limits, we hit traffic.. Had to use my gears and ebrake... it was scary and nerve wrecking, but managed to not hit anyone.. after that, I was done and got rid of it.

I used to do all the work on that car... and the alternator kept failing cause I had the amp for the speakers overloaded...

It's been 10 yrs since then and I haven't needed to do auto work since... so I've lost my year and a half of autoshop skill from HS due to lack of practice. I'm also more of a learn by seeing and doing kinda person, so I'm trying to observe the repairs when possible and I try not to ask too many questions so they can do their jobs, but it's all I can do since I'm sure their garage won't let me work on it myself.. If I could afford an automotive trade school, I'd seriously consider it... but I can't even afford to fix my car once and for all.

10-12-2009, 01:28 AM	#1
DarkSupra2.5 3" Exhaust Join Date: May 2008 Location: Sacramento Posts: 60	You said you had your oil changed recently? Have you checked your oil filter to make sure it's tight? Cause from what you describe it's most likely oil and you should probably make sure your oil level is good before you drive it again. __________________ 1jz-gte swap (Currently spun #3 rod bearings), Apexi high flow filter, Greddy thrust 3" downpipe, N1 3" catback with cat delete tube, 1 peice driveshaft, Bar and Plate intercooler, and 440 JDM 2jz injectors. Possible 2jz lower block swap in the works if I can't rebuild the 1j. So troublesome.

10-12-2009, 07:19 PM	#2
Krem 3" Exhaust Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Las Vegas Posts: 167	well, it could be anything now I'm guessin... not really sure... Shady auto mechanics that inspected my car (wouldn't let them work on it after trying to take me for a fool) told me I had oil pan gasket split, but the two weeks prior, I hadn't noticed any leaks... and even when I had my oil changed earlier that morning at my buddy's jiffy lube, my buddy looked over the car and said I got a good deal... no leaks... no crack in gasket... We had a couple of cold days here in vegas, and it was after that I noticed the oil? on the ground.. I tried to collect more in a cup, but after I noticed it, the weather was warmer and nothing was leaking... so I thought it could very well be oil seaping thru the crack in the gasket... then thought maybe this could be why my timing got fucked... cam shaft/valves not getting lubed right and not rotating as they're supposed to? (eh, sounds likely anyways) Another concern of mine is it might be coolant. Tho I saw an amber color moreso than green... I pulled my #6 plug wire and the wire itself had some condensation build up on the sides... something that would only be present if water were heated to a vapor inside the compartment... so I'm also worried it could be a BHG leaking coolant... However, shop called after trying to run diags on my car... fuel pump and pressure checked good :\.. getting spark all the way thru to the plug... has compression as well.. Was told my battery was dead? (was good when I parked her 3 weeks ago) and my computer codes were all cleared out as a result... so I'm really hoping the problem isn't ECU related... Atm, they're going to pull o2 sensor and test exhaust system... then timing if that doesn't fix it. I'm just afraid it's going to be ECU and I'll now be liable to pay for o2 sensor labor and work done on the timing since they couldn't find anything wrong under their diagnostic tests... and all said and done, after dropping several hundred between tows and labor costs, I've still got a broken car till I can buy a new ECU... Anyone that can ease my whoa's by debunking my logic? or is this a very likely probability I might be facing really soon?

10-19-2009, 01:05 AM	#3
Krem 3" Exhaust Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Las Vegas Posts: 167	Ok, so it's not oil, it's not gas, it's not trans. oil or even brake fluid... it's my brake fluid. Noticed finally when after nearly a week and a half of leaking, my brake light finally came on in my instrument panel. I've had a car w/ cracked brake lines before and it leaked out nearly over night... so I'm guessin this is probably a seal or fitting somewhere down the line... for now, I add some when I lose some and hope to get it fixed in November.. just had the brakes done too.. suspecting a fail on part of the mechanic who did the job, since I'm also hearing squeeking and the new pads and rotors have no more than 300 miles on them... but how do I go about having him repair it w/o charging me (since it's been sitting for 3 weeks waiting after brake job, waiting for a distributor repair)?

10-20-2009, 10:16 PM	#4
jvginpdx Stock Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Portland, Oregon Posts: 13	Brake fluid can be hard on paint. Chances are that any paint the brake fluid touchs will soften or peel off. Consider that "saving money" by fixing it later could result in a car wreck sooner rather than later.......

10-21-2009, 12:19 AM	#6
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	You're just screaming for trouble... well, just in case, get used to downshifting and engine braking and make sure your E-brake is 100%.

10-21-2009, 12:30 AM	#7
CanadianBak'inSupra Official hall monitor / search nazi - NO SOUP FOR YOU! Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Canada, BC Posts: 837	the frame is probly coated in an "under coating" i do not know if brake fluid disolves that stuff.. you should really learn to do as much on a car yourself, rather than paying someone...