HI! just want some suggestions!!

[oregonjoe]

I'm in the middle of a rebuild and I have to say taking the block out and having a shop shave the block and heads is the way to go. After years of slow leaking HG - it will eat away at the block surface making it very difficult to get it cleaned enough for another gasket to seal. The pitting and corrosion leaves defects that need to machined out.

Since the shop can do this with the block out, you can easily go to Metal HG and save the worry. Also, if it has been leaking awhile – you will want to do a bottom end rebuild just to get the new bearings and rings in. My crank and block checked out OK so it was $200 for the ring/bearing kit plus the $150 in shop costs to clean and shave the block and flywheel.

I too have debated on stock or metal HG but the cost difference is $50 out of $1200 so if the block is out anyway – might as well do it right. The $1200 I’m into it now is $500 in shop costs and $700 in parts but it is a complete engine rebuild with new clutch

[Blackdog]

Complete rebuild as in new cams pistons and a crank? Cuz if you can do that for 1200 than im tempted to do so myself.

[*D-Joker*]

yer i think im up 4 a hg to, but im not 100% sure...if my radiator build up pressure after about 10sec of the motor runnin...does that mean the hg is blow and is sendin gas through the water mains???

oh and i also hav a new repair to do amung the rest of the speedo cable etc. lol....i broke an axle, so there is a day lost this weekend hahaha
...lucky i got a spare diff with the car when i bought it =P

[Blackdog]

The way i found out was after i drove it, didnt matter if if was for 2 mins or longer, i opened the hood and a lil bit of smoke was coming out of the motor. Than about 5ish minutes after i turned the car off, coolant flooded into the resivor and spilled over. If coolant fills the resivor and over flows, you have a bhg. If your exhaust is white too. You can check your oil too by drain a lil out and if its water your in trouble. And you can pop the cap on your radiator too(dont do it after driving or while running the car) and if oil is floatin on the top, you have bhg.

[*D-Joker*]

ok... well i hav none of those symptoms...the oil isnt milky, there isnt any oil under the radiator cap, the water doesnt overflow from the resuvier (it happened once, but thats it)
as i said, it just builds up pressure in the radiator way to quick
also the smoke ive got comin out is black (still tryin 2 figure out why it is running rich...)
hmmmm...so the search continues hahaha

[Blackdog]

Running rich huh? Hows your air filter? Check your spark plugs to. And are you still getting decant boost?

[*D-Joker*]

Originally Posted by Blackdog

Running rich huh? Hows your air filter? Check your spark plugs to. And are you still getting decant boost?

yer i already checked the air filter, its like new... however i havent checked the plugs yet...the guy i got it off put them not long before he stopped driving it...however it was sittin out the front of his house for just over 6 months... so im not sure if she is running ruff cause there is still crap fuel in the system...but ill hav a look at the plugs, and also i hav a sneaky suspision that i hav a leaking injector...

ohhh...and my car is N/A ....im not sure how it works over there, but over here in my area of Australia we have provisional licenses for new drivers (new as in i dont have a full license yet lol) and because of previous years of dickhead young drivers who cant drive for shit (but they can crash really good, hahaha), they put restrictions on our licenses, so unless you have a full license now, you cant drive v8's,or any turbo'd or supercharged cars... FREAKIN sucks balls!!!

[oregonjoe]

Originally Posted by Blackdog

Complete rebuild as in new cams pistons and a crank? Cuz if you can do that for 1200 than im tempted to do so myself.

The rebuild is with orginal cam. pistons, and crank. I had the cams redone with the head. The shop also checked the crank and polished and balanced the crank so it was like new. I put new rings in the pistons which were cleand like new and disassembled the rods and wrist pins to clean and relube. All new bearings and seals of course.

The other key was checking all the tolerances with plasticgauge on the reassemble so I kew all the rod and crank surfaces were still perfect. Luckily the shop did not have take anything off to retrue the surfaces.

A engine rebuild kit with pistons was $500 and crank would have been another $150. My pistons and crank were like new so I saved the money

[Blackdog]

oh i see. that very nice. Cool stuff man, and what kit did you use? and im assuming that the extra bucks for the pistons and astuff is just the stock stuff

[oregonjoe]

Ya, everthing is stock except for the ARP Head Bolts and Metal HG. Since the shop got the block so clean - might as well go all the way. Got the rebuild kit from the shop but threw out the junck HG and upgraded to one that would not fail after a few miles.

I have thread on this project at http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...e-rebuild.html in case you missed it.

Just go the block back in yesterday and now working on the head reassembly.