7MGE Engine rebuild - Page 6

cre · 11-25-2009, 07:37 PM

With the vGauge don't plan on using the stock oil pressure sender... the sender itself is internally dampened not the stock gauge.

cvbikeguy · 11-25-2009, 11:42 PM

oh another question. your block too a week in the machine shop....

but what about the head?

cre · 11-26-2009, 12:21 AM

It all depends on how busy the shop is. It took two days for me to get my head back. I had it hot tanked, vacuum tested, dye inspected, resurfaced, valve stem seals replaced.

cvbikeguy · 11-26-2009, 01:28 AM

sorry one more questions. im about to take my head off and i cant get the head bolts off. also im strippiing out the hex bolts trying to do so. any advice?

cre · 11-26-2009, 02:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cvbikeguy

sorry one more questions. im about to take my head off and i cant get the head bolts off. also im strippiing out the hex bolts trying to do so. any advice?

I replied in your other thread.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cre

When you remove the head bolts you need to clean out any and all oil in the hole and any debris which may have collected there; Failure to do so may prevent the allen bit from entering the opening completely.

If you cannot get a bolt out all the way using constant steady pressure AND the socket is in all the way you can try: Pounding downward on the head of the bolt a few times with a rubber mallet; Use a breaker bar and while you hold it FIRMLY in place have someone tap the end of the handle several timed with a hammer; AND, spray the area thoroughly with a GOOD penetrating oil (WD-40 does not count as a good penetrant).

As for the bolts you've already stripped, go to the hardware store and try to find an allen bit or regular allen wrench that's just a *tiny* bit larger than yours, it'll most likely be an SAE size unless you've got a shop in the area which can order .5mm bits. Take it home and tap it in with a hammer... you know the drill from there. Some people have luck with easy outs; Grinding the head off the bolt usually results in some heavy gouges in the mating area directly under the bolt head and as such getting an accurate torque thereafter is unlikely without having the area machined.... not to mention all the debris you'll have to worry about flushing out of the block. Note: If all you can find that'll fit is a regular L shaped allen wrench you can just cut it off and slip it into a regular socket.

If I think of anything else I'll let you know.

EDIT: Oh, and don't be afraid to use a LOT of penetrant... it's cheap enough. Soak the bolts, wait an hour, soak again, wait another hour, soak again.... repeat a often as you wish, then let it sit for a few hours before going at it again. When you do go at it again make sure the allen is going in all the way before you try to remove the bolt.

oregonjoe · 11-26-2009, 03:54 PM

Block was $200 to shave and dip tank, check for cracks. The total Machine shop bill was $750 wich was head job, block and crank, and alot of cleaning (all intank manifolds and oil pan) I bit high but around here I am luck to get anyone who can work an import engine.

oregonjoe · 11-26-2009, 04:02 PM

The block did not take but 2 days to do - it was the head that took so long - 2 weeks. But the total time in the shop was over a month due to needing to find enough POP CANS to get it out.

BTW - The cylinders were only Honed but not boared so that saved some money. After 20 years they were still good but you really need to at least get them honed to get a good ring seal.

Been driving like new since the job.

oregonjoe · 11-26-2009, 04:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cre

With the vGauge don't plan on using the stock oil pressure sender... the sender itself is internally dampened not the stock gauge.

True - I used all new senderds for this off a tee to keep the orginal

jones123 · 11-27-2009, 10:07 AM

wow nice report, I vote for a sticky!! lots of good tips in here. Its almost like reading a step by step haha Thanks man!! hope it all works out for you!

cvbikeguy · 01-01-2010, 10:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oregonjoe

Once the Intake is in place you can place the main wire harness on top and run the connections for the Starter, VAC switches, Transmission Switch, Knock Sensor, and EGR temp down through the runners.

Attachment 2369 Attachment 2370

The connectors are color coded so it’s not too hard to match them up. You can reach under and attach the Knock sensor and VAC Can connection under the runners.

Attachment 2371 Attachment 2372 Attachment 2373

is this the same wire? and where does it go?

11-26-2009, 03:54 PM	#56
oregonjoe 3" Exhaust Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Southern Oregon Coast Posts: 83	block cost Block was $200 to shave and dip tank, check for cracks. The total Machine shop bill was $750 wich was head job, block and crank, and alot of cleaning (all intank manifolds and oil pan) I bit high but around here I am luck to get anyone who can work an import engine.

11-26-2009, 04:02 PM	#57
oregonjoe 3" Exhaust Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Southern Oregon Coast Posts: 83	Time in shop The block did not take but 2 days to do - it was the head that took so long - 2 weeks. But the total time in the shop was over a month due to needing to find enough POP CANS to get it out. BTW - The cylinders were only Honed but not boared so that saved some money. After 20 years they were still good but you really need to at least get them honed to get a good ring seal. Been driving like new since the job.

11-27-2009, 10:07 AM	#59
jones123 Stock Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: india Posts: 3	wow nice report, I vote for a sticky!! lots of good tips in here. Its almost like reading a step by step haha Thanks man!! hope it all works out for you! __________________ car radio

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11-25-2009, 07:37 PM	#51
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	With the vGauge don't plan on using the stock oil pressure sender... the sender itself is internally dampened not the stock gauge.

11-25-2009, 11:42 PM	#52
cvbikeguy 3" Exhaust Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Castro Valley, CA Posts: 248	oh another question. your block too a week in the machine shop.... but what about the head?

11-26-2009, 12:21 AM	#53
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	It all depends on how busy the shop is. It took two days for me to get my head back. I had it hot tanked, vacuum tested, dye inspected, resurfaced, valve stem seals replaced.

11-26-2009, 01:28 AM	#54
cvbikeguy 3" Exhaust Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Castro Valley, CA Posts: 248	sorry one more questions. im about to take my head off and i cant get the head bolts off. also im strippiing out the hex bolts trying to do so. any advice?