7MGE Engine rebuild

[oregonjoe]

Once the Intake is in place you can place the main wire harness on top and run the connections for the Starter, VAC switches, Transmission Switch, Knock Sensor, and EGR temp down through the runners.



The connectors are color coded so it’s not too hard to match them up. You can reach under and attach the Knock sensor and VAC Can connection under the runners.

[oregonjoe]

A few more connectors



The knock sensor is under the intake manifold. The IAC hose connects to a nipple on the underside of the intake

[oregonjoe]

Next I installed the fuel rail and injectors. Soaked the injectors for several days in CARB Cleaner and cleaned off all of the connectors with Brake Cleaner.



Used all new O rings and grommets from the rebuild kit. The 90 Supra does not have a pulse damper on the fuel supply line. I spent an hour looking for one in the parts bag.

[oregonjoe]

Took a while to figure out where the two VAC line brackets went till I discovered they attached to the outside of the AIR Chamber bolts. One on the left and one on the right. The Blue VAC switch also attached to the AIR chamber. There were some grounding straps with 16 gauge striped wires that I was not sure where they went so I finally attached to the AIR Chamber as well. Not sure this is right since aluminum is not the best electrical conductor.



Mounted the AIR Chamber after installing the Vacuum controlled AIR VALVE. Before I installed the AIR Chamber, I installed the EGR Valve to the back of the head to get it lined up with the port on the AIR Chamber so they could be all bolted together at one time. Would have been very difficult to install the EGR after the AIR Chamber and get the gaskets on.



With the Air Chamber on, I could get the Cold Start Injector and IAC valve on next.



The IAC connects to the pre-installed hose from the underside of the Intake runner. One thing I found is that if you use RTV on the hose fittings, they slide on real easy with the spring clamps already in place so you don’t have get in there with pliers to finish connections. The RTV seems to set up pretty secure the next day. Hope it holds.

[oregonjoe]

I then secured the Valve Covers and put 4 OIL PLUG washers on the No 3 valve covers with lots of RTV as they were leaking before the project. Installed the new plugs with Anti-Seize as the old plugs were real difficult to remove. I then took all the old plug wires apart and rebuilt them with new wire and ends. Was able to custom fit each wire so the length were perfect. It takes 16 feet exactly of bulk wire to make up all the plugs. At $30 for wire and ends – saved $50 from buying a pre made set and got YELLOW as well

[oregonjoe]

Went to install the Alternator and discovered another problem – the lower alternator bracket must go on the block first – before the Air Compressor bracket and fan belt adjuster bracket.



This required taking apart the brackets on the timing cover. The Air compressor bracket wraps around the block and is very difficult to get too with every thing else installed. WORD OF ADVISE _ INSTALL LOWER ALTERNATOR BRACKET FIRST.

[oregonjoe]

I've been researching what type of oil to use for engine break in. Found this web site with some great explanation of what is going on and how to do it correctly

http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm

The bottom line is 30W NON DETERGENT

“The primary deterrent of break in is this heat. Allowing to much heat to build up at the ring to cylinder wall interface will cause the lubricating oil that is present to break down and glaze the cylinder wall surface. This glaze will prevent any further seating of the piston rings.”

"If the wrong type of oil is used initially, or the break-in is too easy, rings and cylinders could (read will) glaze and never seal properly. A fresh cylinder wall needs some medium to high engine loading to get the piston rings to seat properly for good compression but make sure you don't lug or overheat the engine. Use high quality, low viscosity oil (Valvoline 30 weight), no synthetics, too slippery. If synthetics are used during initial break in the rings are sure to glaze over.”

[cvbikeguy]

Originally Posted by oregonjoe

Once the Intake is in place you can place the main wire harness on top and run the connections for the Starter, VAC switches, Transmission Switch, Knock Sensor, and EGR temp down through the runners.

Attachment 2369 Attachment 2370

The connectors are color coded so it’s not too hard to match them up. You can reach under and attach the Knock sensor and VAC Can connection under the runners.

Attachment 2371 Attachment 2372 Attachment 2373

is this the same wire? and where does it go?

[oregonjoe]

What you appear to be holding is a ghost connection which I had on my 90 model. It did not go anywhere and I never connected it. It may be for turbo models or just a diag connector. I never found out what it was for but everything runs fine with out connected. Maybe for a Auto Tran since mine was manual?? Anyway wasn't VAC can as it had 3 terminals and was RED.

[cvbikeguy]

ok thank you