My MKIII - My Project - Need a few answers

Grandavi · 08-28-2008, 03:30 PM

I read the manual entirely, cover to cover and still cant find what that black swing thingy on the door post is...

I also was reading thru the "Drifting" area. lol! Why would anyone want to drift one of these, I mean... I believe it can be done easily (I did one "burn-out" to see how well it can do them... I would say... it does it very well) but the car is so damn heavy, if you get swung back its likely gonna go the other way..

I also have a previous post here:http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...questions.html
as well my Show & Tell post was here: (just was my first post) http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...ew-forums.html

mnewxv · 08-28-2008, 04:07 PM

not sure about the latch but we all have it.

Chambers · 08-28-2008, 04:25 PM

I think the latch is for the seat belts, so they wind back up when the door is opened, the one on my car never worked, it was broken. I even replaced it and it broke again, so I find my self guiding the seat belt back up every time I leave my car.

You have a nice car there, rust and dents in all. If you plan to pull the door louvers you will have to pull some of the interior panels off to get the bolts holding them on, as for the rust in the rear, check under your spare tire as well, for now just get some WD-40 and hose every metal surface down in the rear, and in the valleys on the outside of the hatch weather stripping on the car side.

Good luck.

Grandavi · 08-28-2008, 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chambers

I think the latch is for the seat belts, so they wind back up when the door is opened, the one on my car never worked, it was broken. I even replaced it and it broke again, so I find my self guiding the seat belt back up every time I leave my car.

You have a nice car there, rust and dents in all. If you plan to pull the door louvers you will have to pull some of the interior panels off to get the bolts holding them on, as for the rust in the rear, check under your spare tire as well, for now just get some WD-40 and hose every metal surface down in the rear, and in the valleys on the outside of the hatch weather stripping on the car side.

Good luck.

Yeah, I think you may be right about the latch being for the seat belts. It gets pushed sideways everytime the door closes. Probably just releases the seat belt lock.

Found no rust anywhere except that one wheelwell (other is perfectly fine) and the one small spot on the front of the driver's side fender. Hoping that the paint can get matched relatively close once that is repaired.

Really wound this baby out this afternoon... it sure can move... but afterwards I got that smell of burning oil. I got some repairs to do on this motor without a doubt, so I think its probably smart to start purchasing all the parts I will need before I start replacing them (do it all in one shot). I am definitely doing a turbo timer, and will probably mod that downpipe (still dont totally understand what's what under the hood, but I'll get it all down pat soon... ). Now I sit and ponder... did they just throw a 5th gear in this puppy just for those that want to attempt 200 MPH? lol. Im having trouble keeping it at 100kph (60 MPH) in 5th...

Scionguy · 08-28-2008, 08:50 PM

haha very nice. after i get my 89 n/a all restored im selling it and buying a turbo model instead lol. if you wd-40 those rust spots, make sure to tell the painter, or he'll hate you for it, i work at a piant shop, wd-40,wax,oil is not our friend lol. the more you spool that turbo, the warmer its guna be, so that lil bit of oil on things is just burning off, you prob stop smelling it soon or if their are leaks keep an eye on your oil level then, dont wana burn that turbo up lol. i hear that replacing that downpipe makes you spool quit a bit quicker and pull alot harder, if you do the downipe youll probably want a boost controller to prevent spike too, im sure someone will back this up or correct me lol.

Grandavi · 08-28-2008, 09:04 PM

The whole turbo issue is going to be a "Read/Get Advice/Plan/get plan approved/do" issue as this is my first ever turbo vehicle. This forum is an excellent resource, but actually having parts in your hand is the best teacher. Its just not the area I want to make a mistake in.

I think to do it properly, i need to change the downpipe, add(?) a wastegate and blowoff valve?, putting on a timer (regardless, that is my first thing to do), and I dont know anything regarding spikes. (think the timer solves that, but not sure)

Its a learning curve

Scionguy · 08-28-2008, 09:12 PM

a turbo timer keeps your ignition running even after you've turned off the key for a preset amount of time depending on driving time and style to allow the turbo to cool back to a normal level before ceasing oil flw to it. a blow off releases psi when the throttle plate is closed to reduce/prevent backspin compressor surge ( imagine throwing your trans from 4th to reverse.. lol) the wastegate regulates boost pressure and spike, boost spike is when the turbo boosts past a preset point becuase the Wastgate cant dump quickly enoug, i think his is one of the last terms im still fuzzy on. but a downpipe should be done with a diff exhuast, but that will reduce turbo lag, and increase your turbo's potential to a certain point. a boost controller helps works with a wastegate by telling it when to open, close, intsead of just the spring in the wastgate. that help? haha and ive never owned a turbo car, but ima own 3 sooner or later guna boost my xb, 2jz swap my ranchero, and get the turbo supra lmao.

suprakid91 · 08-31-2008, 06:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scionguy

haha very nice. after i get my 89 n/a all restored im selling it and buying a turbo model instead lol. if you wd-40 those rust spots, make sure to tell the painter, or he'll hate you for it, i work at a piant shop, wd-40,wax,oil is not our friend lol. the more you spool that turbo, the warmer its guna be, so that lil bit of oil on things is just burning off, you prob stop smelling it soon or if their are leaks keep an eye on your oil level then, dont wana burn that turbo up lol. i hear that replacing that downpipe makes you spool quit a bit quicker and pull alot harder, if you do the downipe youll probably want a boost controller to prevent spike too, im sure someone will back this up or correct me lol.

yes scionguy, i back you up. haha. get the controller to prevent spike cuz you will probably hit fuel cut if it spikes too high.

Grandavi · 09-01-2008, 12:34 AM

The appraisal was just a long question/answer period followed by a intense inspection and photo shoot, followed by researching replacing the vehicle. There are about 3 pages of itemizations with conditions listed and a car history/summarization at the end. Then, a cost that reflects replacement cost. I was thinking more like 4900 (its CDN dollars btw), but it came out at 6k. Hard to find a decent 88 in Canada right now unless its right hand drive. Even then... its tough. (those are usually "pimped" and cost over 10k... I only found one that I would even consider driving)

As for the downpipe and booster, I am sourcing all the parts now. Going to up the exhaust to a 3" catback system, boost control, boost timer, retrofitting the A/C (just to get rid of that little headache and I don't like playing with A/C systems). I am also going to upgrade the air intake system, but I am having difficulty sourcing the parts for that. I already have a K&N filter, but from what I have read, upgrading will allow the engine to have a "smoother" and more controlled air intake. As well, when the exhaust gets put on, Im going to slap hard-pipes on the intercooler. I looked at upgrading the intercooler, but for under 300hp (which the car will probably remain) I dont think its worth it.

After logging about 10 hours driving it, I am finding it fun to drive, scary to take above 110 mph with current rubber, and frustrating when people wont get out of the way! : )

Busted Knuckles · 09-01-2008, 12:37 AM

FWIW, that black lever inside the door frame actuates a restrictor on the seat belt reel, that makes the retractor seem softer when the door is closed, and will allow for the belt to retract quickly when the door opens.

08-28-2008, 03:30 PM	#1
Grandavi walbro fp Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada Posts: 411	I read the manual entirely, cover to cover and still cant find what that black swing thingy on the door post is... I also was reading thru the "Drifting" area. lol! Why would anyone want to drift one of these, I mean... I believe it can be done easily (I did one "burn-out" to see how well it can do them... I would say... it does it very well) but the car is so damn heavy, if you get swung back its likely gonna go the other way.. I also have a previous post here:http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...questions.html as well my Show & Tell post was here: (just was my first post) http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...ew-forums.html Last edited by Grandavi; 08-28-2008 at 03:43 PM. Reason: added stuff..

08-28-2008, 04:25 PM	#3
Chambers walbro fp Join Date: May 2007 Location: USA - Harford County, Maryland Posts: 481	I think the latch is for the seat belts, so they wind back up when the door is opened, the one on my car never worked, it was broken. I even replaced it and it broke again, so I find my self guiding the seat belt back up every time I leave my car. You have a nice car there, rust and dents in all. If you plan to pull the door louvers you will have to pull some of the interior panels off to get the bolts holding them on, as for the rust in the rear, check under your spare tire as well, for now just get some WD-40 and hose every metal surface down in the rear, and in the valleys on the outside of the hatch weather stripping on the car side. Good luck. __________________ Whats in the garage, well.... in the yard. 1986.5 Toyota Supra - NA - 5 spd 1986 Ford Ranger Lowrider - 5 spd 1984 Ford Ranger XLT - 7" Lift - 4X4 - Auto "Stuck in the 80's"

09-01-2008, 12:34 AM	#9
Grandavi walbro fp Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada Posts: 411	The appraisal was just a long question/answer period followed by a intense inspection and photo shoot, followed by researching replacing the vehicle. There are about 3 pages of itemizations with conditions listed and a car history/summarization at the end. Then, a cost that reflects replacement cost. I was thinking more like 4900 (its CDN dollars btw), but it came out at 6k. Hard to find a decent 88 in Canada right now unless its right hand drive. Even then... its tough. (those are usually "pimped" and cost over 10k... I only found one that I would even consider driving) As for the downpipe and booster, I am sourcing all the parts now. Going to up the exhaust to a 3" catback system, boost control, boost timer, retrofitting the A/C (just to get rid of that little headache and I don't like playing with A/C systems). I am also going to upgrade the air intake system, but I am having difficulty sourcing the parts for that. I already have a K&N filter, but from what I have read, upgrading will allow the engine to have a "smoother" and more controlled air intake. As well, when the exhaust gets put on, Im going to slap hard-pipes on the intercooler. I looked at upgrading the intercooler, but for under 300hp (which the car will probably remain) I dont think its worth it. After logging about 10 hours driving it, I am finding it fun to drive, scary to take above 110 mph with current rubber, and frustrating when people wont get out of the way! : ) Last edited by Grandavi; 09-01-2008 at 12:35 AM. Reason: spelling

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08-28-2008, 04:07 PM	#2
mnewxv 3" Exhaust Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: melrose, ma Posts: 108	not sure about the latch but we all have it.

08-28-2008, 08:50 PM	#5
Scionguy Stock Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Winchester Posts: 24	haha very nice. after i get my 89 n/a all restored im selling it and buying a turbo model instead lol. if you wd-40 those rust spots, make sure to tell the painter, or he'll hate you for it, i work at a piant shop, wd-40,wax,oil is not our friend lol. the more you spool that turbo, the warmer its guna be, so that lil bit of oil on things is just burning off, you prob stop smelling it soon or if their are leaks keep an eye on your oil level then, dont wana burn that turbo up lol. i hear that replacing that downpipe makes you spool quit a bit quicker and pull alot harder, if you do the downipe youll probably want a boost controller to prevent spike too, im sure someone will back this up or correct me lol.

08-28-2008, 09:04 PM	#6
Grandavi walbro fp Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada Posts: 411	The whole turbo issue is going to be a "Read/Get Advice/Plan/get plan approved/do" issue as this is my first ever turbo vehicle. This forum is an excellent resource, but actually having parts in your hand is the best teacher. Its just not the area I want to make a mistake in. I think to do it properly, i need to change the downpipe, add(?) a wastegate and blowoff valve?, putting on a timer (regardless, that is my first thing to do), and I dont know anything regarding spikes. (think the timer solves that, but not sure) Its a learning curve

08-28-2008, 09:12 PM	#7
Scionguy Stock Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Winchester Posts: 24	a turbo timer keeps your ignition running even after you've turned off the key for a preset amount of time depending on driving time and style to allow the turbo to cool back to a normal level before ceasing oil flw to it. a blow off releases psi when the throttle plate is closed to reduce/prevent backspin compressor surge ( imagine throwing your trans from 4th to reverse.. lol) the wastegate regulates boost pressure and spike, boost spike is when the turbo boosts past a preset point becuase the Wastgate cant dump quickly enoug, i think his is one of the last terms im still fuzzy on. but a downpipe should be done with a diff exhuast, but that will reduce turbo lag, and increase your turbo's potential to a certain point. a boost controller helps works with a wastegate by telling it when to open, close, intsead of just the spring in the wastgate. that help? haha and ive never owned a turbo car, but ima own 3 sooner or later guna boost my xb, 2jz swap my ranchero, and get the turbo supra lmao.

09-01-2008, 12:37 AM	#10
Busted Knuckles 12psi boost Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Atlanta Posts: 300	FWIW, that black lever inside the door frame actuates a restrictor on the seat belt reel, that makes the retractor seem softer when the door is closed, and will allow for the belt to retract quickly when the door opens.