Down to two possible problems

[suprra_girl]

I guess we'll start with some basics

When you have the start problem does it turn over at all or is there nothing?

Auto? Manual?

When you crank it does it sound normal? Does it sound like it wants to fire?

Put a paperclip between FP and B+ then turn your ignition to the ON position. Go and listen to your engine, do you hear the fuel running through the engine? Also listen to your tank, can you hear the pump (stockies are usually rather quiet) Does it sound ok or does it make strange whine noises?

Have you got spark? Pull out lead #1 and stick a plug in it and see if it fires.

How are the wires in your cps? These are common to cause a cranking no fire problem.

Let me know the answers to the above and we'll go from there

[Micahwc]

Sorry I took so long to reply, I just finished grad school finals week, this morning.

First off, its a 87 turbo, manual transmission with 120k miles on it. The owner before me replaced the head gasket and said they torqued to 75 pounds.

I checked my engine codes, and got a constantly flashing engine light. If I remember right this means that there were no faults.

I jumped the FP and the B+, and I could hear the fuel moving. I have not pulled the plugs as I have just recently replaced them, and the two times that its worked since it ran perfect, except for the battery being completely dead after I removed the key.

Currently, if I disconnect the battery ground and reconnect it I can hear a little electrical "hiss", and then I will have power to the car. The windows will come down, the air will come on, and the radio will turn on. If I try to turn the key on all the way, to crank the engine, the car just dies. There is nothing, no cranking, no power, no anything. If I disconnect the battery ground and reconnect it, this happens again.

When I get out of the car after this, I usually get shocked when I tough the car. I don't know if this is related or not.

I have not checked my CPS wires, I will search for this and try to look at them. I am pretty sure that I have a bad ground somewhere, i.e. a cable connected to the wrong spot, or a rusted connection. If anyone could help me make sense of the electrical diagrams I would appreciate it, as I can't read those things very well.

Thanks for the help.

-Micah

On a personal note, I love your car.

[supramacist]

I had similiar issues on my 91 na.

I wonder if you have everything set to the correct stroke between the cams and the crank.

[Bill UK]

Your last post indicates starter motor or the thin wire going to the starter being the problem. Try this first; connect a wire (about 15 – 20 amp) to the small spade connector on the starter motor, there are only two wires going to the starter, (both are positive) one large red wire which is bolted on to the starter and one thin one that is connected to a brown shielded spade connector. The other end of the wire temporally insulate, you may find it easer to leave the existing small wire connected and just crimp or solder the extra wire as close as possible to where it connects to the starter. Turn on the ignition (make sure its not in gear) remove the temporary insulation from the new wire and touch the positive terminal on the battery. If it does start and you continue to have success, let us know.
I think the shock may be just static electricity some people are more sensitive than other to static. Try wearing cotton undies instead of nylon.

[Micahwc]

I have a really dumb, newby question. Where is the starter motor located? The TSRM shows what it looks like, as does the Haynes manual, but neither shows where it actually is located.

Thanks in advance

[supramacist]

Underneath the air intake on the intake side of the engine all the way back onto the tip of the bellhousing.

2 big a$$ bolts and a small group of wires are attached to its' belly.

[Bill UK]

Your need to crawl underneath to see the connections.