Another Newbie!

mkIIruckusbass · 12-29-2005, 01:54 AM

Hey guys, yet another newbie. Wanted to say hi to everyone and bring you upto speed on my condition. First of all I wanted to say what a relief it is to find a bunch of guys that seem to be down to earth. Second of all I want to ask my brothers among the MKII Supra domain to forgive me. I have let my first true love to sit on the back burner for such atime that it will be a long time before I can get her to where I want her. Thirdly(is that even word?) I need to figure out a problem that mybe you all can help me with. When I first start my car she idles fairly smooth(for over 275,000 miles as an estimate). The coolant temp gauge doesnt work nor does the speedometer. They both stopped working together on the same night, long story. Once I reach speeds of around 35 mph and around 2000 rpm the check engine light comes on. The cars engine seems to run just as good as did before until I slow down to an idle. Then it idles like turd. A buddy of mine said that it is running in "open loop" after I first start it until it reaches operating temp or a cert speed or rpm. Is there a speed sensor that could be throwing it out of whack or could it be from the coolant sensor?Any help would be great.

KingDiamond · 12-30-2005, 01:34 PM

i would say the easiest thing to do would be to pull a code from the computer, they have hand held tools that will make the check engine light flash to display the code. it will flash so many times, count them and that will be the first digit of your code, then there will be a pause, and then what you have to do is count the second set of flashes, and that will the second digit.

example: 3 flashes pause then 2 flashes = a code 32

if you don't want to go out and spend the money there is a way to jump the diagnostic connecter to make the check engine light flash the same way, a chilton manual would most likely have it , or someone on here should be able to descibe to you on how to do this.

mkIIruckusbass · 12-30-2005, 05:13 PM

yeah I did that. It pulls up codes like the no output from dist, and no output from coolant temp sensor. My check engine light and everything else went to crap showing off on night. It happenedone night leaving a Christmas party after listening to my neph run his mouth about his S10. I have been through it changing timing belt and tensioner. Thought perhaps maybe that was throwing off dist output. Tried to start yesterday w/ no luck. Cranks no start. This happened after Katrina. I didnt see any flooding and she has managed to still complicate my life. I live65 miles north of New Orleans. Anyway, I guess I try and get into it again today to make heads or tails of it.

KingDiamond · 12-31-2005, 01:08 PM

then maybe the distributor was going, and since its not starting anymore, maybe its just completely shot, you might be able to find a cheap working distributor on ebay to throw in there and see if she works.

mkIIruckusbass · 12-31-2005, 06:13 PM

Well I pulled the no output code about 3-4 years ago. It ran fine I figured it may have been triggered by the fact it was in open loop mode. Plus it runs when I shoot a little gas in the throttle body. When I was putting a fresh batt. in the car I think I may have popped a fusible link or an inline fuse. That was about two and a half months ago. I dont think my fuel pump is firing up or at least I dont hear it. I have never heard it though. I really havnt been up to pilfering w/ it lately due to my back. I have the toyota service manual that my wife downloaded at work. When I can get back on my feet I am going to use it. I do appreciate all help though. Thanks.

12-29-2005, 01:54 AM	#1
mkIIruckusbass Stock Join Date: Dec 2005 Posts: 6	Another Newbie! Hey guys, yet another newbie. Wanted to say hi to everyone and bring you upto speed on my condition. First of all I wanted to say what a relief it is to find a bunch of guys that seem to be down to earth. Second of all I want to ask my brothers among the MKII Supra domain to forgive me. I have let my first true love to sit on the back burner for such atime that it will be a long time before I can get her to where I want her. Thirdly(is that even word?) I need to figure out a problem that mybe you all can help me with. When I first start my car she idles fairly smooth(for over 275,000 miles as an estimate). The coolant temp gauge doesnt work nor does the speedometer. They both stopped working together on the same night, long story. Once I reach speeds of around 35 mph and around 2000 rpm the check engine light comes on. The cars engine seems to run just as good as did before until I slow down to an idle. Then it idles like turd. A buddy of mine said that it is running in "open loop" after I first start it until it reaches operating temp or a cert speed or rpm. Is there a speed sensor that could be throwing it out of whack or could it be from the coolant sensor?Any help would be great.

12-30-2005, 01:34 PM	#2
KingDiamond 12psi boost Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: West Milford, NJ Posts: 357	running like turd i would say the easiest thing to do would be to pull a code from the computer, they have hand held tools that will make the check engine light flash to display the code. it will flash so many times, count them and that will be the first digit of your code, then there will be a pause, and then what you have to do is count the second set of flashes, and that will the second digit. example: 3 flashes pause then 2 flashes = a code 32 if you don't want to go out and spend the money there is a way to jump the diagnostic connecter to make the check engine light flash the same way, a chilton manual would most likely have it , or someone on here should be able to descibe to you on how to do this.

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12-30-2005, 05:13 PM	#3
mkIIruckusbass Stock Join Date: Dec 2005 Posts: 6	yeah I did that. It pulls up codes like the no output from dist, and no output from coolant temp sensor. My check engine light and everything else went to crap showing off on night. It happenedone night leaving a Christmas party after listening to my neph run his mouth about his S10. I have been through it changing timing belt and tensioner. Thought perhaps maybe that was throwing off dist output. Tried to start yesterday w/ no luck. Cranks no start. This happened after Katrina. I didnt see any flooding and she has managed to still complicate my life. I live65 miles north of New Orleans. Anyway, I guess I try and get into it again today to make heads or tails of it.

12-31-2005, 01:08 PM	#4
KingDiamond 12psi boost Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: West Milford, NJ Posts: 357	then maybe the distributor was going, and since its not starting anymore, maybe its just completely shot, you might be able to find a cheap working distributor on ebay to throw in there and see if she works.

12-31-2005, 06:13 PM	#5
mkIIruckusbass Stock Join Date: Dec 2005 Posts: 6	Well I pulled the no output code about 3-4 years ago. It ran fine I figured it may have been triggered by the fact it was in open loop mode. Plus it runs when I shoot a little gas in the throttle body. When I was putting a fresh batt. in the car I think I may have popped a fusible link or an inline fuse. That was about two and a half months ago. I dont think my fuel pump is firing up or at least I dont hear it. I have never heard it though. I really havnt been up to pilfering w/ it lately due to my back. I have the toyota service manual that my wife downloaded at work. When I can get back on my feet I am going to use it. I do appreciate all help though. Thanks.