I would get the wiper switch too.

You must have a lot of miles on your car. My head only needed $348.00 in machine work. After all, you can get a reman for $500.00.

Ok, once the head is clean you can search for cracks, they usually show right up. They can magnafux them to look for cracks, but not on aluminum. Your head is Aluminum so it cant be hot tanked, but they can put it in their parts cleaner.

The main thing you need is, the head cleaned($35), shaved($65), reground($200) with new valve seals in it.

You can put over sized valves in it, that is where heads can get expensive, then polishing the compustion champers (Better head distribution in the cylinder) Smooth out the exhaust ports (very important) then port match the intake by using the intake gaskets that are going on the car. (don't go beyond 90grit when porting the intake) you want the turbulent air for better fuel mixture. the exhaust should be a smooth as possible for quick evacuation.

Are you building this head so you can add a turbo later? Then you really want the chamber to be polished. (don't run more than 8.5 to 1 compression though, or else it will ping and predetonate.

does a re manufactured head come with all new components? as it sits right now I may end up just buying a valve spring compressor and pulling the valves myself. Then going to polish the valves and domes, port the intake and exhaust runners, so hopefully when I get the pacesetter header it'll be about the same diameter so I get a good flow.

As for miles well my supra has 263k kilometers which is like 165k miles, I've heard of these 5m's getting well into the 300k miles with proper maintenance before calling it quits.

Yes, that is exactly right. If you end up pulling the valves out yourself make sure you know where each valve goes. As they are worn to fit in each hole that they are in. Same with the lifters and rocker arms.

Sometimes when you rebuild a head the engine may smoke because the extra pressure on the rings, but I doubt this will happen, as long as you have changed your oil semi-often (every 7,000 miles or so)

What you have planned may only get small horse power increases. You should look for a junk head and practice polishing. Get the car running for the least amount possible for now and plan for a rebuild in in 65,000 miles. You can get the necessary machine work for the $348 or so I said earlier.

It's acturally really hard to properly port and polish a head. You need a flow bench. Your best bet is to plan a 1jz transplant if you want more power. I am going to throw some money away when I do my 5mge overbore. I will have the heads professionally done ($2000 by a racing outfit) and then bore and hone for the over size. The cost is about as much as to do the transplant, but I will only get 240hp (about the same as a Ferrari 308 of the same period.) The Jz1 will get much more. (not sure on specifics, but it's hundreds more)

You should really keep your car stock and running. Buying new shocks and struts is the best investment on my car. As the 85 supra is an awesome drift car. (I was impressed with my car after the new shocks and struts.) Your car is a fun car just driving it. Take care of it and keep the interior and exterior in the best shape possible to keep it's value. Value is the most important thing with this vintage.

I seriously doubt you need springs and guides. (make sure you replace the timing belt and tensioner pulley though)

http://rabidchimp.com/oversized-stai...ves-5m-6m.html

Rapid chimp has some oversized valves, but they are $432.00 for 12, that is $36 a piece. :crazy:

Rabit chimp is super expensive and I wouldn't really order from them until I had a lot of $ in the bank. I really would like to turbo the 5m in the future because virtually everyone does the 2jz or 1uz swap and I'm not one for following the beaten path.
But your right our supra's are awesome drift cars, I've slid it a bit and loved it, little harder to control then my friends 328i in a slide but once you get the hang of it your set. People seem to think you need to pump a shit ton of power to have a fun car but honestly our cars that put out 160hp is almost enough and 240 i think would be right around the sweet spot for drifting. Not to much power but just enough to keep the tires from grabbing when you don't want them to.
What kind of shock and springs you running? I wanna go kyb AGX's because I've heard there amazing but my friend said go with kyb gas-adjust's (I wont have to retro fit those unlike the AGX's) My friend also found a decent set of lowering springs at groundcotrol.com.

Ya, turbo is the best bang for you buck. You want to polish the chamber then, but make sure the valves stay in when you do this, You don't want to damage the seat. The key to turbo's is focusing on exhaust flow. don't worry about the intake side. (you're gonna need new rings for a turbo and a balanced and polished crank.) A turbo 5mge can cost money too. If you get that exhaust though you at least working your way up there.

Ya, I have a bar welded from the rear wheel wells, to stiffen the back of the car, but their are better ways to do this. Mine what done by someone else. It was used as a rally car.

I had Gabriel ultra's, I got a good deal on them and they are not as bad as people make them out to be. (they hold more pressure than Monroe's) KYB is better though. My upper support struts are kyb's. (I just have the stock springs, they work fine. as long as you stay stock you maintenance requirements are not that much; as it's built for reliability stock; it can take more abuse that way too)

edit* I just realized you you meant springs, not valve springs. I use stock ones either way. Springs don't go bad hardly at all. The only valve springs I seen that were bad were for the 60's. The springs from a McPherson strut system, I am sure it's the same. I have never seen a broken one, just a rusty and dirty one. I try to balance performance with cost, so...... Adjustable shocks are for people that are serious. They balance the car to the weight of the driver. You are talking about only marginal gains and that is really only for people in competition.

Well I'm just looking to stiff'n mine up a bit, makes a world of difference when you drift man. once again my buddies bimer was a prime example.
And As for springs I'm just looking for a short and stiffer spring rate, wanna drop the ride height by an 1.5" or 2" if possible for stability reasons.

not a fan of the bimers.
4500 rpm is not enough.
did you sort out the wipers yet or do i have to send you steering collum switches now, lol