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Old 04-19-2007, 04:47 AM   #1
3" Exhaust
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Default One more time, my air removal method.

I'm going to tell all of you who have problems with purging the air out of your coolant system after replacing the radiator or hoses or heater core one more time. Please pay attention. Go and get yourself a radiator fiill funnel kit. It attatches to the radiator fill port and when you fill it up with your 50/50 mix, it forces the air out of the system. Why, you say? Because water is heavier than air, therefore, it forces the air out of the system. For those of you with the gurgling sound inside coming from your heater core. This will fix that. I do this stuff on a daily basis. I'm not just talking out of my arse. You don't need to do a bunch of crazy home remedies or put the car up onto ramps to get the air out. Once most of the air has escaped from the system by way of the water pressuring it out, you can then crank your car up and turn the defroster on high so you know when the thermostat has opened up and allowed the warm coolant to circulate through the heater core. It's really simple to do. Doesn't take any rocket science to understand. I'm sorry if i seem condescending about this, but apparantley noone has taken my advice, and i haven't been on this forum in a while, and noticed like three threads about air in the system, or gurgling sound coming from the dash. I replace heater cores and radiators on an almost daily basis because people don't do proper preventative maintenance on their vehicles. That's why i will always have a job. Gotta love job security. In fact, i just took apart a 2001 Ford Expedition dash for a heater core, in about two hours. You have to remove the center console, and i've never done an Expedition before. The job calls for 8 hours, and i pulled the console and dash in two. Guess what? That means that it'll go back together in about two, give or take. I just knocked the job out in half the time it's required. Damn, i love air tools and experience.
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Old 04-19-2007, 05:25 AM   #2
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Mojave Desert, Calif.
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Default heater core

Where in the TSRM is the heater core???

What position does it sit in the case???

Tube inlet/outlet positions ???

I found this blowup in the TSRM parts catalog.

Which seems to show that air actually should NOT easily get trapped in the core.

Here is one from CSK (Checkers-Schucks-Kragen) parts stores.
Ready-Aire #398296 List is $96

Same part # here on Amazon for $53.

Same # here for $46.

Most online stores want $216. Crazy!
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Had a Red 1989 N/A. Automatic. Sports Pkg. w/wing.
TEMS, and some nice MODS. Sold to a friend 10/08/08.

Last edited by mrnickleye; 04-19-2007 at 06:55 AM.
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Old 04-20-2007, 03:09 AM   #3
3" Exhaust
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The whole reason why i posted this thread is because it seems like a LOT of people are having problems with "gurgling" coming from their dash, which others have indicated as air trapped in the heater core. If this is true, my method would remedy that, because it works for ANY coolant system, EXCEPT the ones with a screw on type radiator fill bottle, like the newer Fords and Chevy's. My kit attatches to the top of the radiator on the fill neck. You fill it full of coolant until it's about a third of the way full in the funnel, and let it sit and gravity force air out of the block and coolant circulating system. Then , when it seems that there isn't any more bubbling air coming out, you crank up the car and turn on the defroster. When the air coming out of the dash vent is warm/hot, you know that the thermostat has opened and allowed all of the air to escape and coolant to fill the heater core. It's also a good indication when the level of the coolant drops in the fill funnel, as well. I just hate to see people get frustrated at doing such a simple task as bleeding the air out of the coolant system.
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