best oil for 130.000+ mile supra

[Bill UK]

Tried most wrenches over the years, the one I would recommend is No 1 in the photo below, its called a cap wrench, it has a 1/2 inch or 3/8 inch square hole in the end suitable for the standard extension wrench bar,. I got mine in the UK for about ?3 GBP.

If it helps the Toyota Filter measures 74mm with fourteen flats.

No 2 photo is a K&N filter with built in hex nut shape on the bottom. I haven’t tried them since the cap wrench does the job.

[scruffboy]

Yes, No. 1 is the one I was talking about. Best 99 cents I ever spent. And like I said, it works with your ratchet.

Scruff

[SupraSaver87]

There is an easy way to get the oil filter out from the bottom!

1st) Jack the car up so you can confortably be under the oil pan area.

2nd) The oil filter NEVER has to be so snug that you can't take it off by hand. It should be snug, but you don't have to torque the thing down either. Soooo....remove the filter by hand, if not, then find a way to loosen it.

3rd) Now with the filter off the car. In the area the filter is sitting there will be an open area up and towards the back of the car, you will find a small tube like area (Feel around...you will find it) that is big enough for the filter to go through, then slide it through there, and it will drop down about 3\4 ft down towards the back end. Once you figure it out for yourself....it will save you time, I don't really know how someone could get the filter out from the top of the car, like it seems people here are suggesting.

[tone loc]

i just changed my oil for the first time today. i used car quest 10w-40 all season and a carquest premium oil filter the bill came to like 30.00 because ihad to buy a oil pan. then i went to sears and bought a 3-ton jack, 2 3-ton stands, a creeper, and oil filter wrench(unversal). the jacks and creeper came as a set so the total was like $145.00. i changed the filter from the top of the car(easy). The only problem that had was that i was wearing a belt and when i was changing the filter i made like a four inch scrach on the fender. that sucked! next time ill try the 20w-50 and i hear that carquest is kind of a hick auto parts store but whatever. im happy with myself.

[theWeezL]

Well, if you got the job done you did great for a first timer! Getting yourself a floor jack and some jackstands is a bonus and should searve you well for a long time to come. Since you got a sears nearby start picking yourself up some decent hand tools and try to keep them clean. A good tool box is a must have if you're gonna keep working on cars. The craftsman toolboxes are great if you dont buy the cheap "homeowner" version. Pay a little more and get the one with double roller slides...trust me, you'll probably own it for life (I've owned mine for 20 years and it was by far the best tool investment I ever bought) and it pays to get the better one.


Congrats on the new Supra, and welcome to the community!

[tone loc]

actually i inherited all of my dads tools and he use to work on cars, industrial fridgerators, heating, a/c, and just a lot of diffrent things so i have a good selction of tools. The only thing is my uncle took the air compressor and i have one of those sweet drills that they use in like races to swich off the wheels and when i was young i found a timing light in my garage and at the time i didnt know what it was so i broke it (on accident).Stupid mistake.

[Supra2NR]

i used those jar openers off my moms cabinet,
it has a rubber ring around it that supposed to grab jar lids so you can twist it open without losing grip,

it makes a good tool to take the oil filter off
and it ddnt cost me a cent
my mom was pissed as hell tho

[supra90turbo]

holy crap guys.
Thicker oil isn't necessarily better. Please understand tribology before you fire off.
Synthetic oil isn't bad for any engine. Unless you're breaking it in...
Greddy synthetic oil is 99% likely that it is just waaaaay overpriced regular synthetic.

Originally Posted by burton51m

tone loc, synthetic oil is the best way to go but is a little more expensive. as for your question about brands i use castrol syntec (full synthetic) 10w-30.

Funny thing is, Syntec isn't synthetic. It's just a highly refined Group III base oil.

In the late 1990s, Castrol started selling an oil made from Group III base oil and called it SynTec Full Synthetic. Mobil sued Castrol, asserting that this oil was not synthetic, but simply a highly refined petroleum oil, and therefore it was false advertising to call it synthetic. In 1999, Mobil lost their lawsuit. It was decided that the word "synthetic" was a marketing term and referred to properties, not to production methods or ingredients. Castrol continues to make SynTec out of Group III base oils, that is highly purified mineral oil with most all of the cockroach bits removed.

Originally Posted by scruffboy

I was using full syn. but I am now going with Mr.Nickleye's suggestion to use 20w 50. I buy Castrol High Mileage. I'm not sure of what I'll use in the winter. 20w 50 doesn't sound like it'll cut it.

I wouldn't go and do that...
I'm using Mobil Delvac1 5w40 in my Subaru. It's synthetic, and it's meant for diesels, so it's a stable oil that should last a long time. It should be fine in the winter, 5w40 means it's a 5w oil at 32*f and 40w at 212*f

Originally Posted by ton loc

i hear that carquest is kind of a hick auto parts store but whatever.

lol, carquest filters are Wix. Wix filters are the best off the shelf filters you can buy. The people that say carquest is a hick auto parts store are the people that buy Fram filters at AutoZone. CarQuest sells parts, not accessories, underglows, shift knobs, or anything else like autozone. That's probably why whoever said it's a hick store.



any other info about oils can be found in these links.
Read them all. You're doing yourself a favor by doing so.

http://tinyurl.com/azn5o

http://tinyurl.com/ouk7t

http://tinyurl.com/363cu

http://tinyurl.com/b7kr6

[tone loc]

thoose are some good links

[dcrusupra]

I wouldnt use 20w50 in my car. Its meant for cars with minor leaks. And 20w50 is probably the worst for a 7M. Its thicker, so it takes a longer time for the oil to get from the oil pan to the head. And thats the worst for this engine. The heaviest weight I would use is 10w30. Maybe 5w30 in the summer here because it's hot as hell. I'd use Mobil 1 because their guarantee is that if your engine has any problems related to an oil failure, ie. thrown bearing, they will buy you another engine. But I don't use Mobil 1 because I don't need to.