Turbo problems?

[TxSpeedBoy]

She is idleing ok, but until I put it in drive it idles about 1100-1200 rpms. When in drive she idles 800-900 rmps. She also doesn't start the first time after she's been off for a while. Sometimes it takes as much as 4 attempts. What's the deal with this? I'll check the piping too. I took it to Toyota today and they did a free visual inspection. Everything for the most part is ok, but I need new pads for sure all the way around, and most likely rotors too. Any idea of where the best deal for these are. They wanna charge $151.00 for the front and the same for the back totaling around $300.00 for just the pads...I think. I would like to do them myself, but don't know if I have the know how or the facilities to do so. I checked the oil cam for the chocolate milkshake stuff and none was around the immediate opening, but down in there just looks like oil. I couldn't find the bolts though. Know of any sites that have diagrams? What do I have to take off to get to the bolts? I think it is in the cylinders too on account that I have no cd player so there is a hole there and when I get on it, I can see burnt oil coming out. I am thinking it needs new gaskets and seals. Any advise? Cost predictions?

[duster117]

i though the boost was suposte to stay a negitev at idal

or is it suposte to stay at 0psi at idal

[TxSpeedBoy]

I went to look at a SRT4 a little bit back before I got my Supra and the guage in it stayed at 0 psi and when I hit the throttle in neutral it went up. On mine, it doesn't move no matter how hard or long you hit the gas.

[suprra_girl]

it is very rare for the 7mgte to boost in neutral... don't worry about it

[duster117]

well yes but is it suposte to stay at 0psi at idal or negitev?

caus the one im geitting stays at negitev then only goes to about 5psi.
however it seams to run as close to perfect as posable.
good stable idal.

[TxSpeedBoy]

That's good to know. How do I "burp" the cooling system, it sounds like there is air in it.

[suprra_girl]

it will be in "vacuum" at idle... usually about -20ish on a good engine

burping

Originally Posted by mrnickleye

Mine had it, too. Air trapped in the heater core, cause its higher than the radiator cap.

Make sure heater water valve is open. I would by-pass the vsv for this

***note... water WILL pass thru heater core when thermostat is closed, (on a cold engine)***

Not too hot engine. Heater controls in max hot, with fan on low setting.

Using ramps, or jackstands, Raise the front of car as high as possible (I went 3 feet on mine, till the exhaust pipe tip was almost touching the ground).

Remove cap and drain off (at drain plug into pan) coolant until you can see the radiator core inside cap area. Tighten drain plug. Start engine and let idle for about 20 min. until nice and warm.
You can raise the idle up to about 1000rpm to make the water flow better.
***Note...Don't rev the engine, as it will cause the coolant to shoot out like a whale spout***

The trapped air will be forced out because doing this proceedure makes the core lower than the radiator cap.

Shut off engine, pour drained coolant back into radiator, install cap (new prefered). Lower car. Fill overflow bottle 1/2 way. Test drive.

No more waterfall sound ? Good !

I had to do mine 2x to get it all out. Next day, Check and fill 1/2 way the bottle, as the removed air will be replaced by coolant, so bottle may be low.