need help making power94tt
 

got a 20l fuel cell for the car and gone use center return line with the stock intake any advise on the return.Is it better to run a fuel line on each pump to the fuel rail.

It's better to stick with the oem fuel tank if you're only running a 700rwhp turbo. It's better to purchase an entire complete fuel kit than trying to piece-meal one together yourself. And all other things being equal, one line to the rail is better than two...but this isn't the least expensive way to achieve a near-equivalent result in the Mkiv TT.

Why whould you say the fuel cell isnt a good idee i would like a 1000rwhp supra but dont have the money to spend on one time. im also making my own flywheel.What do you mean with(but this isn't the least expensive way to achieve a near-equivalent result in the supra)thanks for the advise so far

Gosh, please re-read my post. I did not say that. Here's what I said:
Again, IF you are only running a 700rwhp turbo, you'll most definitely be in the 10s at the drag strip. Most drag strip regulations are totally fine with running the oem fuel tank at those speeds. Also, most Mkiv Supra Turbo modders like to keep their cars as streetable as possible. Having a 10 second completely streetable street car is a 'badge of honor' for many Supra owners. Consider this: getting (for example) a 'rustang' into the 10s may be cheap, but it's pretty much useless for getting your son/daughter to daycare if you mod it that heavily. In other words, why get rid of the oem 17 gallon fuel tank if you don't have to?

On the other hand, I'd never argue against safety. Although at 10 seconds I believe your oem fuel tank is sufficiently safe, go ahead and put that fuel cell into it, since you really never can be 'safe enough':
http://www.fuelsafe.com/white_papers/fuel-cell-facts.html
...and weld a 12-point roll cage in there, a Hans device, and dual parachutes too, while you're at it. :)
I wish you had told me this sooner. It's tough for me to provide accurate advice when the goal is unclear.
Awesome - do you have any pictures that you can post? I'm also very interested in why you're doing this...not the least of which reason is that there are so many good, relatively affordable choices out there for one-piece solid steel flywheels and two-piece billet+steel flywheels.

I'm curious: Will your flywheel be able to support multiple clutch disks? You'll never be able to reliably&repeatedly hold 1000rwhp with a single disk clutch, no matter what it's made of.
The least expensive way to build a 1000rwhp fuel system (6spd) is to take maximal advantage of the oem fuel line and the oem fuel return line. If you independently analyze the question: "what is better, single or dual fuel lines", you miss the whole point of doing as much as possible with what is already there, and building a system that will meet your needs while being cost-effective. ALL of the off-the-shelf 100%-complete fuel systems have already considered this in their designs. Here's an example:
http://www.spracingonline.com/store/...93-98_Supra/17
Anytime...happy to help.

need help making power94tt
 

Was just asking about the 2fuel lines you never now maybe you guys do things different becuase your 1/4 mile times is much faster then our times in SA.
What i did with the clutch kit is use the old clutch centre piece and made it a 5 puck button and the pressure plate i took in and made the pressure more on it when it brakes i would like to go to multiple disk.On the flywheel im using the same design as the stock flywheel to get more weigth out of the aluminium flywheel,and wil be able to modify the flywheel later for the multiple clutch kit if it doesn't work i wil just buy a clutch kit with flywheel.Wil sent you pics as soon as its finish.
The reason why i want to use the fuel cell is it can take 2 big external pumps with out any hassle with a new feed and return lines, i can also use the stock fuel tank with pump to supply a surge tank and use 2 pumps from the surge to supply.
I like trying to build things my self if it doesnt work i wil safe up and buy a brand name would like it if my supra can do 10s but it wil take time.

Wow, you're really overbuilding that fuel system. The oem fuel system with one oem in-tank denso pump and -5 AN lines (and ~-4AN banjo fittings) can push 550rwhp. All you need for 1000rwhp is one more oem denso pump and a new -6AN line. With two external pumps you can push about 5,000hp worth of fuel (!!!) - why go so big? It'll be REALLY noisy, the pumps will overheat and burn out if you try to drive them in stop-and-go traffic, and all that extra fuel won't do anything at all to help your hp or your 1/4 mile times.

Thank you for describing your clutch & flywheel project. It does sound interesting. Please post pictures, and keep us updated!

The US 1/4 mile times are fast for a number of reasons (6spd)...in no particular order:
1) Street/strip cars use wide and tall BFG drag radials on 16" rear rims and n/a rear brakes. The fender lip is cut and the body panel by the frame is pounded in to make more room for the tire. Low tire pressure is used (eg. 12psi). Be careful though - it's VERY tough/tricky (i.e. potentially dangerous) to drive around at that low tire pressure - gradually reduce it and get used to doing 1/4 mile runs at each pressure level.
2) Drag shocks are used in the rear
3) Front sway bar disconnected
4) Stripped down for weight savings (spare tire, rear seats, sub box, etc)
5) Smaller battery, moved to the right rear
6) Nitrous and 2-step are used to spool turbo
7) Lots of clutch 'feathering' to keep the rear tire slip optimal as the turbo builds power and speed increases
8) More nitrous as speed increases
9) Conversion to full drag slicks and skinnies up front will get you another 1/2 second or more
10) Conversion to a built TH400 will usually get you another 1/2 second (depending somewhat on your 6spd driving skill)

10 seconds is a 'walk in the park' (i.e. quite easy). You don't need to go to anywhere near this extreme to get into the 10s. Mkiv TT BPU autos (with very low mileage on the oem turbos and the oem block) have gotten into the 11s!!! With some NOS, proper tuning, and drag radials you could get into the 10s with the oem twin turbos, the oem fuel injectors, and the oem flywheel. Really!!!

Please, please, please, please - tell us EXACTLY what you're ultimately trying to achieve. Right now I have no idea if *in the end* you want "1000rwhp" -OR- a 10 second car -OR- an 9 second car -OR- ???? The goals you communicated are confusing because you don't need 1000rwhp to get into the 10s!!!??? Before you do anything else (eg. fuel system designs, flywheel machining, turbo buying, etc., etc., etc., etc.) please decide *exactly* what you want to achive and let us know so we can pin-point the minimal, most cost effective ways to modify your Supra and achieve that result!

I'm going to repeat the advice I gave you in my very first post on this thread:
"Please slow down! One step at a time!"
You've been spending time and other resources over-engineering some things you don't need, and you're totally ignoring other areas that are important. My guess is that you're also listening to advice (rather bad advice, imho) from one or more other people. Am I right? I do admire your enthusiasm, drive, and work ethic...but I hate to see you waste your efforts. Let's chat about the things you're thinking of doing before you actually start doing them! :)

need help making power94TT
 

I would like to do low 10s but like you said step by step must get her in the 12s then 11s and hopefully in the 10s,the top ten place in sport compack in the 6cyl class is SA is 10s and first 7.8s and there is not one supra want to be the first.
First thing is the fuel system lets say 1000whp then there is no change running lean rather to big dont want melted pistons.
Wil send some pics soon.

NO - the "first thing" is that we need to put together a plan, and educate you so that you can stop listening to whomever keeps feeding you this bad advice. Running lean is not the primary cause for melted pistons in an Mkiv Turbo. Again, if your goal is 10s, you do NOT need a 1000rwhp fuel system.

need help making power94tt
 

Okay,what is the plan wat do you suggest

Step 1 - Define your Goal(s):
What do you ultimately want to achieve? A 10 second pass? OR 1000rwhp? Either one of these is an acceptable goal, but there's no need to try to do both at the same time, unless you're sure you want to expend time and money to get both of these.

Please note that 1000rwhp is a more specific (and expensive) goal. Since it's so specific (horsepower only), we could achieve this and your Supra wouldn't necessarily be any faster. For example, without wider rear rims and much better rubber, all 1000rwhp buys you is a slow car that does a great smokeshow. Keep in mind this is just an example to illustrate why the modifications that end up on the plan have to be considered all together at once, as a complete system, in order to keep your Supra safe, reliable, and achieve the goal of the redesign.

In one of your posts, you said your goal is "drag racing and roadrace". Is this still accurate? ...or in another of your posts, you said "I decided to build the supra for the dragstrip". If you're still interested in roadracing, what are your goals for this? Is there a particular track you plan to roadrace on? Keep in mind large turbos and high boost is terrible for roadracing. Drag racing tires are also terrible for roadracing. For roadracing, you don't need more than about 550rwhp VERY reliable, good brake pads, brake ducts, roadrace tires, and good suspension. Many of these modifications are exactly opposite of what you want for drag racing. Building one car that can do both will be quite expensive. ..or are you sure you want to modify your Supra for drag racing at the possible loss of its ability to be roadraced and handle well in cornering? - is that your final decision? I'm just trying to clarify and be completely sure.

I also need to know if you want to be daily-driving this car...or at the very least if you want to take it out on weekends and drive on the street (around town). If not, are you willing to keep your Supra on a trailer in between track events? I don't mind helping you build a track-only trailered Mkiv Supra Turbo, but I have to know that's what we're doing ahead of time. Eg. with a trailered car we can run biased-ply drag slicks with skinnies up front, remove the rear brakes, put in a parachute, and weld the rear axle solid. On car driven on the street, these modifications are impractical.

Are there any other goals? Do you also want to maintain any the Toyota design of having a car that's good for taking corners (roadracing/autocross/etc.)? What about top speed? Do you care if we limit that? All of these are considerations. I need to know as much as possible about everything that you want to do with this car, *before* we start buying parts and turning wrenches.

Whatever the goal(s) is/are please be prepared to commit to them absolutely...and do your best to eliminate all preconceived notions about how to achieve that/those goals with any one techology (eg. single turbo, fuel system, etc.) After we get your goal(s) set in stone, then we can find the least expensive and most reliable way to achieve it/them.
__________________________________________________ _________


Step 2 - Clearly define our starting point for the modifications:

The Mkiv Supra Turbo is a symphony of systems working together - we have to consider the impact of each change on the entire operation of the car - from suspension and weight balance, to traction and cornering, to engine longevity, to braking performance, convenience, maintenance, etc., etc. That's the only way to modify it and have the result be safe and reliable.

Please let me know the complete list of *everything* that has already been done to your Mkiv Supra Turbo. Is it currently driveable? Specifically, what problems are/were you having with the oem twins? To me, we should troubleshoot this problem first so we know we're starting with a good base. Also, 150psi is actually not a "good" compression test result. A new 2jz-gte actually compression tests over 170psi. I'd suggest we do a leakdown test on your engine to verify our starting point.

Has it already been modified to accept the fuel cell? Have you removed the oem fuel system yet? Have you removed the oem clutch yet? Have you installed that 'godspeed t4" 67mm turbo kit yet? ...or have you not purchased a turbo yet? (two of your posts have conflicting information). Have you already installed the "gotech pro x"? etc. What other parts have you purchased that have not been installed yet? I need to know exactly what we have as a starting point. If you have any pictures you can post, that would be good too.

__________________________________________________ ______

Please answer each and every one of these questions, in both sections above, as thoroughly and completely as possible so that I can provide you with accurate advice. Again, my goal is to keep your Supra safe and reliable, and to only recommend modifications that are absolutely necessary for you to achieve your goal(s). This approach will save you time and money, and will allow you to achieve your performance goals as quickly as possible so you can start enjoying your Supra sooner!

need help making power 94tt
 

]Step 1 - Define your Goal(s):
I would like to do a 10s pass.Was thinking of maybe doing a 1km run just for fun. Want to use her for dragracing.
At the moment i dont really want to strip to much and modify its to much of a nice car, only if its really neccesary, If i do deside to take it out on the road 2/3 times a month it wil be a short distance to show of my supra so can just put back road tires and drive it slow.
__________________________________________________ _________

Step 2 - Clearly define our starting point for the modifications:

So far the gearbox is out the intake is off and the turbos is off and the exhaust system. flywheel is also out. the previous owner modified the vacuum pipes on the oem twins but dit a bad job and i think the ox sensor was stuffed was very heavy on fuel. oem fuel system is still in would like to use the fuel cell.The turbo branch is in with only one bolt to see if the turbo wil fit.I do have a turbo but but its to small wil make it bigger or get a bigger one.wil take size and send it to you. wil send pictures.
I got the gotech pro x ecu,1200cc injectors for the e85.fuelrail,mines cam gears,fuel cell, fuel pressure regulator an the godspeed t4 branch.
__________________________________________________ ______

Thank you for the information you have provided. However, I do have more questions before we get started, numbered in red below:

1) Why would you would "like to use the fuel cell"? Safety? You know that, among other things, it'll drastically reduce the distance that you can drive your Supra, right? Why give this up? Also, it'll make your Supra smell terrible inside, since ...without a LOT of custom sheet-metal work...there won't be a layer of metal between it and the inside of the car, like there is with the oem fuel tank. To me, that also makes the set-up more dangerous, and really not that much more safe at all.
Summary: You said "dont really want to strip to much and modify its to much of a nice car, only if its really neccesary". You also said you would "like to use the fuel cell". These two statements are in direct conflict with each other, because the fuel cell is not necessary to achieve your goals.

2) What is a "godspeed T4 branch". Is this an exhaust header, kind of like this one?
http://www.auto-exhausts.com/blog/wp...bo_1jz_Gte.jpg

Define Goal(s):
- 10.x seconds in 1/4 mile
- No roadracing
- Occasional slow street driving

3) What is your speed/time goal for the "1km run"? If you don't care if (for example) it's bumping off the rev limiter for the last 1/4 of the 1km run, then we don't need to worry about this goal. However, if you want (for example) to hit a maximum top speed of 190mph, then it becomes an important consideration.

4) Nitrous oxide - is this available where you live (I would assume so, but please confirm). Are you willing to consider this as part of your drag racing solution, if it was one of the components of the most cost-effective setup?

Define Starting Point:

5) Would you be willing to sell your t4 header/"branch" and put your oem twins back on, IF we determined that was the least expensive way for you to achieve your goal(s)? ...or do you really, really want a single turbo Mkiv Supra? Either answer is okay with me, I just need to know what it is. If it matters at all, I'm 100% sure that we could definitely get your vacuum lines back to oem configuration, and get your oem twins working properly.

Note: It was probably "very heavy on fuel" because of a boost leak, and not because the ox sensor was "stuffed". :)

Recommendation: Please perform a leakdown test on your 2jz-gte and post (or PM) me the results.

Request: Please post picture(s) of your Supra as it sits right now.

6) Are you willing to sell any of these other parts, if it is determined that we really don't need them to meet your goal(s)?
"gotech pro x ecu,1200cc injectors for the e85.fuelrail,mines cam gears, fuel pressure regulator"

7) How much time, money and effort have you already invested in creating your custom flywheel? The reason I ask is because I believe we could find a way to get you one ready-to-go for a very affordable price. I'd rather have you invest time in unique modifications that will make your car go faster, rather than spending it on a part you can get off-the-shelf.

1) Can use the oem fuel tank must just get one more pump in the system

2) Its basically that know its not a good make but the brand names are very expensive and cant find any 2nd hand ones.

Define Goal(s):
- 10.5 wil be very happy wit that.
- No roadracing
- street driving wil be like 3 times a month and not much further then 5km

3) would like a decend speed if not much of a change

4) nos is very difficult to full up and dont want to use it
Starting Point:

5) Would like to go single turbo.
must just get every thing ready for the leak down test


6)would like to use the parts i bought also the fuel is crap this side and seen good results with e85
7) Have not spend alot of time on the flywheel to busy at work.

need help making power 94tt
 

Not sure wat size it is bought it off my friend it has a A/R 70 with a 57mm and the exhaust not sure the outlet is 70mm havent striped it to take size but wil make it bigger not a problem or sell it and get something else.

need help making power 94tt
 

Wil take some pictures this weekend off my supra must just push her out the garage.And the AR on the exhaust im also not sure there is no marking to indicate size would gess so .63.Some more pictures

Thank goodness. Putting a second fuel pump into the oem fuel tank is quite simple:
http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/fue...DualPumps2.jpg
Please go ahead and sell that fuel cell.
Please post up a picture of it.
Please be more specific. What is a "decent speed" to you? 150mph? 175mph? "a decent speed" is too subjective, so we would either have to competely ignore that goal during the build, or you need to decide much more exactly what you want to achieve.
Hmmmm. :( This could significantly impact the cost. To me "very difficult" is not the same thing as impossible. Personlly, I would put up with something difficult if it meant saving a significant amount of money...Okay, but is this a build requirement, or not? If we could save money by getting you into the 10s without a single turbo, would you consider it?
okay, but what about the gotech pro x ecu? Would you sell that if it turns out we don't need it at all?
Also, please post a link where I can learn more about this ecu.
Ok. Please post a picture of how far you've gotten on this project.

need help making power94tt
 

one of the oem turbo wastgate port is starting to crack so need to replace them and would rather use a single turbo
I really dont think im gone be able to get the oem ecu tuned here and the web addres is www.gotech .co.za

The flywheel is stil a piece of solid alliminium must stil start with it.
Dont worry about the speed of the 1km then wil just see wat speed it gets on the 1/4 setup.

The oem ecu can't be tuned - at least not without extensive (and expensive and impractical imho) internal modifications - so I agree that's not an option at all, anywhere. However, just because the oem ecu can't be tuned, that doesn't mean you should tear it out. There are several good choices for relatively inexpensive and easy-to-tune fuel controllers (aka 'piggyback' ecus) that leverage/retain all of the oem ecu's tuning. For example, have you considered this device?
http://www.titanmotorsports.com/afcneo.html
If you can find one used, it should be quite affordable. Unless you object, I'll recommend you sell that gotech ecu, and install an afc neo - okay? Let's call that TSI modification#1 for your project.

Note: I'm assuming you'll sell the fuel cell, the gotech ecu, and anything else we don't use - right????

TSI Modification#2 will be to get your turbo situation squared away. Even a relatively small single turbo will get you into the 10s, so let's go ahead and use that 57mm, .70 a/r turbo you've already got, on that godspeed header. Install it all with a Tial wastegate, and run all hoses and lines.

Preferred alternative: Purchase and install a 100% complete turbo kit:
http://www.spracingonline.com/store/...-98_Supra/3627
Also install an HKS S-Type intercooler (or equivalent).

TSI Modification#3: Finish your fuel system upgrades: Put a second oem (Denso) fuel pump into your tank. Run a brand new 12 volt circuit with a relay for your second fuel pump all the way from the battery (do NOT splice your oem fuel pump wiring except as a trigger for the relay or your wiring will overheat inside your fuel tank - this is a very bad thing). Run a new, separate -6AN line from that 2nd pump to the engine, with an in-line -6AN fuel filter. Run the oem fuel line to one side of your fuel rail, and the new -6AN line to the other side of your fuel filter. Run a new line from the center of the fuel rail to your aftermarket fuel pressure regulator, and run the output of the regulator to your oem fuel return line. Install the rail with your 1200cc injectors. Let me know if you have any questions about any of this.

Preferred alternative: Get a 100% complete fuel system:
http://www.spracingonline.com/store/...DAY_SALE___/17

TSI Modification#4: I need more info here...what was wrong with your oem clutch and/or your oem flywheel? Also, you posted a pic of a what looks like a new pressure plate - what brand is it?
For a 10 second pass, you'll need an aftermarket pressure plate (with greater pressure than the oem pressure plate), and an aftermarket clutch disk - the one you posted up looks fine. Either a new oem flywheel or an aftermarket flywheel will do fine. If it's not too late, I'd opt for a steel flywheel rather than an aluminum one - you need mass in the flywheel to keep the wheels spinning off launch and in between shifts. A flywheel that's too light will allow the driveline to lose too many rpm too quickly, and will make for a poor drag race setup.

---At this point, your Supra should be fully reassembled---

TSI Modification#5: Fill with E85, and tune the AFC Neo and the aftermarket FPR until it runs. Don't tune any specific RPM ranges yet - just the overall baseline. You may need to change the MAF input to 1/2 (the AFC has a setting for this), which will reduce the volume of fuel squirted into the engine by 1/2...which may be all you need as a starting point, along with a base fuel pressure of about 35psi (oem base is 44psi). Oh, be sure you install a boost gauge and an air/fuel gauge (either wideband, or one that uses the oem O2 sensor). An EGT gauge would be good/useful too.

TSI Modification#6: Install wider rear rims. The cheapest option here is to get your oem 17"x8" front rims widened to 17"x11" (3" wider), and then move them to the rear with spacers. Put the oem 17"x9.5" rear rims on the front, trimming the caliper lip if necessary. Get some 315 BFG drag radials to put on the 17"x11" rear rims. Please refer to this tech article:
http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/par...ned/index.html

TSI Modification#7: Install aftermarket rear springs - preferrably Eibach. They have progressive resistance, and they lower your Supra by about an inch. I'm sure you can find these used.

After these mods, you'll need to get it dyno-tuned and get it running reliably. Then we can 'tweak' the final configuration before you head to the drag strip.

Please let me know your thoughts about this 7-step plan. We can modify it, but we need to do it together - okay?

P.S. Don't forget the leakdown test.

Need help making power 94 TT
 

TSI modification#1
That neo do you wire it in or is it plug in.Just asking wat is the reason for not using the gotech or is the oem ecu that good. what about al the old sensors wont it make problems on the ecu if its disconnected. Just have a look at this chip.
http://www.dastekpower.com/home.htm


TSI Modification#2 Forgot i do have a wastegate will sent pics



TSI Modification#3: Do i need to upgrade the oem fuel pump or is it okay



TSI Modification#4: The clutch was on its wear limit.Took the clutch in and made it 5 puck button.The pressure plate is also made stronger
The old oem flywheel is very loose can turn it 45 degrees still need a flywheel.


My readings last time was 155 but our atmospheric pressure is 85kpa can be the reason its lower.

You wire the AFC Neo into the MAF circuit. The oem ecu is very good for anything up to about 750rwhp - a piggyback like the AFC Neo is all you need. The oem ecu offers excellent forced induction performance and driveability, with minimal tuning. With any standalone ecu it's going to be a lot of work just to get it up and running...never mind dealing with cold-starting/hot-starting, gas mileage, stalling, and building the fuel and timing curves from scratch. You can avoid all of these headaches by maximizing the thousands of engineering hours Toyota put into the oem ecu.

That dastekpower unichip seems okay except there's no Mkiv Supra Turbo application.Each oem denso fuel pump can relaibly push about 550rwhp worth of gasoline or about 320rwhp worth of E85 (6spd)Why not a new Toyota flywheel? It's great for both drag racing AND regular street driving.155 isn't great, regardless of atm. Again, a new 2jz-gte reads over 170psi. A leakdown test will give you better information about the true condition of your engine, and the effort is easily justified for your case.

Need help making power 94tt
 

Think it will be okay to use the dastek chip its the best we have and it has a supra map unless you object.

Will do the leak down test asap.
Wil have a look on the net if i can find a oem flywheel.
Thanks for the advise can wait to get her running.
What do you think of the play on my flywheel or can i use the old flywheel wat is the worst that wil happen to it wil it break.

The reason your oem flywheel has a lot of play is because the dual-mass springs got worn out. Please don't look for an oem flywheel "on the net". Get a new one that's not already worn out from your Toyota dealer.

Worst case, just weld your oem flywheel solid, and then get it balanced. This would be much better than looking for one that's already mostly worn out.

Do you wire in that Dastek ecu, or does it completely replace the oem ecu? If it completely replaces the oem ecu, you need to sell it. For a 10 second 1/4 mile, you don't need to get rid of the oem ecu...and you'll lose a ton of driveability too. Also, a standalone ecu can be a tuning nightmare...costing you thousands of dollars and weeks and weeks of time to tune and re-tune. The fact that the dastek ecu already has a supra map isn't that important, because a base map is only a starting point. Every Supra is different - something as trivial as a pound or two difference in the base fuel pressure or the brand of fuel injector can completely throw off the fuel map. Stay with the oem ecu if at all possible - seriously.

Need help making power 94tt
 

The dastek is basically the same as the neo you wire it in keeping the oem ecu.sorry dit not mean map.
Il make plan with the flywheel the toyota dealers here dont sell supra spares because its an import.Here is a pick of my supra.
http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...raturbo1/1.jpg

Thank you for posting the picture! :)

Regarding the dastek, you should start with an all-zeroes (no net change) map, not a "Supra" map, with a straigh-line adjustment for the injector size. That, together with fuel pressure adjustments should be all it takes to get it to run. After that, all of the work is done on the dyno to get it tuned properly.

To my knowledge, no one has welded an oem dual-mass flywheel solid - this, together with a surface-machining to cut off the hot spots, would be a very interesting modification. Please keep me informed as to what you decide to do.

need help making power 94tt
 

Im going to weld it.First have to cut a weld prep and hope the flywheel dont bend to much wil just give it a min skim on the face wil let you know if it works.

Lots of good advice here. Thanks pwpanas.

Good luck with your plans warmkop. I suggest that you take this advice because, it doesn't require you to radically change the car. I believe Supra is rock solid and a legend who's integrity should be kept intact when modifying it. You couldn't find a better car to own/drive/race stock standard or modify. All thanks to Toyota's excellent engineers - Tsuzuki Isao-san and his team did an incredible job :)

Just some fyi for you pwpanas:

As warmkop said, Supra is fully imported here because Toyota didn't send it to SA. No spares or support can be acquired from any Toyo dealer here in SA unfortunately. I'm all for OEM replacement parts as far as possible. Our Supras are JDM spec - USDM is LHD which is not allowed here. UKDM can be bought at quite a premium. JDM Supras are more popular even in Britain. If I remember correctly, JDM Supras have MAP sensors as opposed to export spec's MAF sensors. They also do not have EGR (thank goodness!) like you mentioned before.

Later :wavey:

Need help making power 94tt
 

So the flywheel cant be weld it is mild steel at the back and cast iron in front to much of a hasle.But have another plan wil let you know.

Ok. Thanks for the update!
:bigthumb:

need help
 

So i took the tapet covers off to get sprayed and found that the head is full of (chit) looks like the car was never serviced i can scrape it of with a teaspoon. so i think i must take the enjin out and overall the enjin what do you think.do i use oem bearings or acl bearings and any advise will be appreciated. i can take the head off and clean it out and hope nothing went threw to the bottom end.

To me, this rule applies: "if it ain't broke don't fix it". In theory, I wouldn't disagree with a partial disassembly and cleaning, but this could introduce other issues if not done with extreme care. Imho, definitely do not replace the bearings, unless you know your current bearings have clearly measurable issues.

That said, I wouldn't completely ignore the internal gunk. I'd start by doing a synthetic oil and filter change. After that has run for a couple of thousand miles, use this product:
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/flsh.aspx

need help
 

Wil do that, wil clean out wat i can and flush the enjin. I finished my flywheel but it is weighs 4 kilos more so wil just machine a bit more off. wil send some pics of the flywheel.thanks

Very cool. Again, please note that extra flywheel weight is actually a benefit for drag racing a turbo car w/manual transmission during the launch. Bogging off the line is the biggest potential problem, followed closely by excessive wheel spin. Wheel spin can be managed by artfully feathering the clutch.

Of course, be sure that modified flywheel is perfectly balanced! I'd prefer if you could find a machine shop that has the capability of spinning the flywheel over 10k rpm for balancing purposes.

need help making power 94tt
 

Flywheel is finish will balance it next week then i can start putting everything together.
http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...2-30112434.jpg

Cool. Is it solid billet aluminum? ...or is it stainless? ...also, what does it weigh in total (with the ring gear)?

need help making power94tt
 

It is EN 24 codisin T mild steel and it is 17.132kg

That should work fine. Be sure to note that if you're going to be using a carbon-ceramic clutch disk material that you'll likely wear that flywheel out quickly if you're doing a lot of drag racing. The carbon-ceramic material is *much* harder than mild steel.

need help making power 94tt
 

The EN 24 mild steel is the hardest mild steel you can get but when it wears out i wil most likely go for a tilton clutch next.

What if you machined a recess, and made a replaceable section (roughly a flattened doughnut shape) to deal with wear and heat spots? Best design would have the doughnut cut in three or four sections to deal with heat expansion, and of course recess the mounting screws.

Need help making power 94tt
 

That will work that design is the same as what they use on the alluminium flywheels.
almost forgot happy b-day pwpanas.

Many thanks! :D