Need help making power 94tt
 

The spring is 1.5 bar going to put a 2 bar spring and set the boost down.
just tested the car with the 225 battling to get rims for the MT slicks.
must get the 1/4 mile times down.
Need a decent boost controller at the moment it is a manual boost controller.

I agree changing the wastegate spring will likely help with the fluctuation issue. Also ensure your blow-off valve(s) have sufficient volume to bleed off any compressor surge if/when necessary.

Regarding the tires...again, 225 seems far too narrow. You need to be running at least 12" (305mm) wide tires on at least 11" (280mm) wide rims, with very low tire pressure, and purpose-built drag race rubber (either drag radials or slicks) in order to get good 1/4 mile results from your new horsepower levels.

Need help making power 94tt
 

It was a very difficult decision but i took the radio out speakers,heaterboks,backseats,antenna motor and a few other stuff that you cant see.Still looks stock
Saved so 150kg.
Next i must get diff bushes made.

Great job on the weight savings.

Stiffer subframe bushings benefit more than solid diff bushes. Where did you get the info that diff bushings might help?
http://www.titanmotorsports.com/soresumofort.html
http://www.titanmotorsports.com/soresumofor9.html
You can create a budget-substitute for the front one using a stack of very wide steel washers. Not as good as the TMS replacement, but it's a decent start.

Did you ever get wider rims? You could even get the oem rims widened if you're on a budget. My first rim width upgrade was oem rear rims on the front and widened oem rear rims on the back - it worked great!!!
http://mkiv.com/techarticles/parts/o...ned/index.html
Getting the correct width of rubber, using drag-specific rubber, and the correct tire pressure will be the best first steps to getting that 1/4 mile time down.

Need help making power 94tt
 

http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...ps37d0fea4.jpg
Must just get the right offset it stick to much out.
And for the bushes you mentioned it one off the post and did some research

Agreed offset is your issue. Those rims don't look right for an Mkiv Supra (jza80 chassis). The oem offset is +50mm for 9.5" width rear rims. The oem rear rubber&rims have more than a full inch of clearance on both the inside (to the shock&spring) and the outside (to a rolled/trimmed fender lip), so a +50mm offset is still correct for an 11.5" width rim. When I widened my oem rear 9.5" rims to 11.5", they added the 2" of width on the inside, so I used a 1" hub-centric spacer to restore the +50mm offset.

Need help making power 94tt
 

Some photos of the hooters run we did.

http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...psa3423825.jpg

http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3ee4bbfb.jpg

http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...psa74ae52f.jpg

http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...ps47439c2d.jpg

Awesome pictures - thank you for posting! :)

I love that rear license plate insert - where did you get it?

Powder-coating the intake plenum is very unique as well.

Beautiful Supra...great workmanship. :bigthumb:

Need help making power 94tt
 

http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8dc12dea.jpg
Had a dyno day saterday

Congratulations. If my calculations are right, that's 559.2rwhp...correct?

Need help making power 94tt
 

That is correct.That was on 1.5bar still with stock cooler.

I everyone.
So update on the car is had trouble with the turbo leaking oil out in front and the back had the seals replaced on my new turbo and it was okay did like 2 events and a dyno and now the turbo is starting again o and it smokes between gears changes dont know why it keeps doing it.
But its in to get the luanch controll connected up and to set the boost up if the turbo is going to handle it.lol

A few questions:
1) Are you using 100% pure synthetic oil on all of your oil changes?
2) Do you have an oil filter installed in the oil line feeding the turbo?
3) Do you have a restrictor installed in the oil line feeding the turbo? (Note that HKS turbos come with a restrictor built into the oil line fitting on the top of the turbo.
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...oil_restrictor

I just changed the oil it had synthetic oil in changed it to semi synthetic because I change the oil about every 3 months.
No I don't have a filter.
It has a 3mm restrictor in.

Recommend you change back to full synthetic. The temperature of your turbo(s) break down non-synthetic oil, no matter how often you change it.

3mm is quite large - you may wish to consider a smaller diameter restrictor and an oil filter in your turbo's oil feed line. The smaller restrictor may fix your turbo oil seal leaks, and the filter will help keep the restrictor from getting blocked by random debris (or particles of coked non-synthetic oil) that may end up in your crankcase. This restrictor has a .04" (1.016 mm) oil passage:
http://www.frsport.com/Turbo-Oil-Res...FQto7Aod-iwA-w

A 1mm restriction has 0.785 sq. mm. area, and a 3mm restriction has a 7.065 sq. mm area (9 times greater). Although I'm not a fluid dynamics engineer, I'm sure a hole that's 9 times bigger will flow quite a bit more oil...

I need advise on launch control we can't get the chip to read the crank signal black/red wire any advise..

I assume everything is running fine other than the launch control.

Are you using the oem crank signal, or have you equipped the harmonic dampener with a secondary (eg. hall effect) magnet & sensor?

Everything is running fine.
Using oem crank signal.

If your aftermarket traction control system can't read the oem 2jz-gte crank signal, you may need to use an aftermarket crank signal.

When I was running my Haltech E6K, this was a required modification.

Check out the link in my last post (above), and let me know if you have any questions.

Yes I agree but if I do the aftermarket crank signal how do I do the timing how will the stock ecu read the signal and how do I cut the timing for the launch controll

Your ecu is already using the oem crank signal just fine - why would you want to move it over to the aftermarket crank signal?

I'd need to know more about the details about your ecu and the details of your launch control "chip" to help further with how to cut the timing for the launch control. Could you post the complete configuration here? (eg. is the launch control simply a feature in the ecu you're using, or is it a separate 'box'? What is/are the brand(s) and model(s) of the ecu(s) that you're using? etc.)

Sorry dam internet was off. im battling with my car again tried to set boost up but cant get it set nicely with the chip thinking off going aftermarket ecu

Which one? AEM is plug-and-play...

We dont have aem
Want to use Power mods

So im busy installing power mod ecu in my car did the turbos thrust again. wil let everyone know as soon as im finished with it and it was on the dyno.
also adding 2 ekstra breathers on the cam cover for the ekstra boost in case

Generally, a sealed PCV system is recommended over breathers. Run all PCV ports to a catch-can, and then run the catch can to a vacuum source (either pre-turbo, or post turbo with a one-way check valve). There's also a way to run PCV to the exhaust:
http://static.summitracing.com/globa...1189_US_xl.jpg