700rwhp supra for roadracing and daily driving

[pwpanas]

Originally Posted by CustomMKIV

In your opinion, would it be worth having Titan motorsports build an 800 rwhp engine?...

Titan Motorsports would absolutely LOVE to take your $$$ for this project, and they'd be perfectly within your specifications to ship you a new oem shortblock from Toyota, with absolutely zero parts/labor invested on their part. So in short, my answer to your question is absolutely not. A Titan-built 2jz-gte would only be worth your $ for a goal of 1100rwhp, up to 1600rwhp.

Originally Posted by CustomMKIV

...If so, does rebuilding the internals help increase your low end power?...

No, unless you go with higher-than-oem compression pistons. However, the higher-than-oem compression pistons will require you to either run an even higher octane of race fuel ($) or alcohol/E85, and/or it will limit the boost you can run with any given octane.

Originally Posted by CustomMKIV

...I'm also curious about the width of the wheels I can put under a widebody. The Top Secret widebody fenders are 33mm wider in the front and 50mm wider in the rear. Can I fit 13" (335's) under the rear end...

Probably not...at least not without additional width added by the shop you use to install the widebody kit.

Originally Posted by CustomMKIV

...and can I fit 10" (255's) under the front?

Yes, but 255s are too narrow to match with 335s on the rear. You should run at least 285s with that 10" rim...or get a 10.5" or 11" rim to run the 285s or 305s, which should also fit under the Top Secret widebody front.

[CustomMKIV]

My question then would be, Do I have to change the offset or do I need to make sure I order the right offset so I don't cause any issues. My main concern is the front. I don't want to lose any of my turn radius by going too wide. I'm pretty sure the 335's will fit under the rear fenders being 2" wider than stock. The front fenders will be about 1.3" wider.

[pwpanas]

Originally Posted by CustomMKIV

My question then would be, Do I have to change the offset or do I need to make sure I order the right offset so I don't cause any issues.

Yes, you'll need to change the offset from oem; you do need to make sure you order the right offset so you don't cause any issues.

Originally Posted by CustomMKIV

My main concern is the front. I don't want to lose any of my turn radius by going too wide.

Agreed this is a concern.

Originally Posted by CustomMKIV

I'm pretty sure the 335's will fit under the rear fenders being 2" wider than stock.

But what about the 335's? The oem rear tires are 255's...which means the tires will be 80mm (3.1496 inches) wider than oem. Are you 100% sure they'll fit?

Originally Posted by CustomMKIV

The front fenders will be about 1.3" wider.

Same deal here. Oem-width front tires are 235s. 285s match that 10" rim you were planning (not 255s!), which is 50mm (1.9685 inches) wider.

[CustomMKIV]

No. I'm not 100% the wheels will fit. I've been reading all the forums to see what others are fitting on the stock body and trying to calculate how wide I can go from there. It will probably be best to get the body work done and then measure my clearances for exact fits. I was trying to figure it out so I could order the wheels since it will be at least 6 months before I can get the car in for the wide body.

[pwpanas]

Originally Posted by CustomMKIV

No. I'm not 100% the wheels will fit. I've been reading all the forums to see what others are fitting on the stock body and trying to calculate how wide I can go from there. It will probably be best to get the body work done and then measure my clearances for exact fits. I was trying to figure it out so I could order the wheels since it will be at least 6 months before I can get the car in for the wide body.

Your 335s will barely fit under the widebody, on the rear. Worst case, you may have to have the bodyshop modify the widebody kit, to make it 1/4" wider on the rear...and that assumes the offsets on your rims are optimal. On the fronts, 285s actually fit with the oem body (not widebody!)...again, assuming a perfect rim offset... no problem at all with rubbing (as long as you don't go crazy about how much you lower the suspension...

With a bit of work (pounding the inner fenderwells, trimming the fender lip), you can actually get 315s to squeeze into the oem fenders.

Oh, and I'm curious. For only 700rwhp, 315s are more than enough rubber to do the job. Why go widebody and 335s?

[CustomMKIV]

I'm actually looking into more than 700WHP. I also like the wide body and the loook of the wider wheels an tires. I'm will only lower the car as much is needed for optimum look and performance. I'm going to work with the shop after the body work is done to get the right offsets and wheel measurements. I'm thinking at least 800WHP. My original plan was 900WHP and that's more what I'm looking for.

I'm currently running a twin turbo engine in a N/A body with a stock 5 speed transmission and N/A rear end. I've got 400WHP with 410lbft of torque according to the dyno. I'm currently running it on premium pump gas.

What's the best way to get to 900WHP from where I am right now? Do I need to upgrade to the 6 speed Getrag transmission and a different rear end to handle the power? Most performance shops are recommending a total rebuild from the bottom up. My understanding is that I should be able to meet my goals without touching the internals. Any thoughts on this?

[pwpanas]

Originally Posted by CustomMKIV

...I'm currently running a twin turbo engine in a N/A body with a stock 5 speed transmission and N/A rear end. I've got 400WHP with 410lbft of torque according to the dyno. I'm currently running it on premium pump gas.

What's the best way to get to 900WHP from where I am right now? Do I need to upgrade to the 6 speed Getrag transmission and a different rear end to handle the power? Most performance shops are recommending a total rebuild from the bottom up. My understanding is that I should be able to meet my goals without touching the internals. Any thoughts on this?

Yep the oem n/a 5spd won't handle 900whp, so the 6spd is a must. I don't have max hp specs on the n/a diff, but I'm about 95%+ certain you'll have to change that too.
You could run 850rwhp (6spd) reliably with the oem 2jz-gte bottom end. 900rwhp is pushing it, imo. Of course you'll need 272 cams (preferrably HKS)...and some porting on the head wouldn't hurt either. If you're going to get it ported, make sure it's by someone who can prove their results on the 2jz-gte. A bad porting job will make worse power than an oem head.