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Old 06-27-2007, 05:01 AM   #11
supramacist
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You can remove the exhaust mani from the block and leave it plugged up if you like. Just bungy cord it out of the way. You can leave the upper and lower plenum on. And remove the head..., you'll want help removing it. I would remove the fan shroud and the fan and probably drop the alternator just to be on the safe side. Hell. I would remove the radiator, you have to empty it first anyhow. It's nothing to pull out. Climb in and break the head loose. They tend to be a pita. A long a$$'d screwdriver / prybar. Don't fluck anything up.
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Old 06-27-2007, 10:39 PM   #12
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what is all the fuel parts you have to remove I have unhooked to injector plugs but not removed the injectors yet but do you have to remove the fuel rail and all the hoses because I did not see that in the haynes manual but I might have read it wrong and for the head can you tap it gently with a soft hammer instead of using a pry bar and maybe mest up something
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Old 06-27-2007, 11:22 PM   #13
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You can leave the fuel rail attached if you choose.

Just dis-connect from the wiring harness.
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Old 06-28-2007, 01:48 AM   #14
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cool thanks then every thing is about ready to come out
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Old 06-28-2007, 04:48 AM   #15
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You know you are going to have to strip the head for machining, right.

What are you really trying to accomplish here, if I may.
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Old 06-28-2007, 11:09 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supramacist
... I would remove the fan shroud and the fan and probably drop the alternator just to be on the safe side. Hell. I would remove the radiator, you have to empty it first anyhow. It's nothing to pull out. Climb in and break the head loose. They tend to be a pita. A long a$$'d screwdriver / prybar. Don't fluck anything up.
The radiator and friends does come out so easy ,and you would realy hate yourself if you damaged it by getting in a hurry. One of my favorite methods for encouraging head off is a hammer and wooden block. Hold the wood against the head ,and no harder than tapping ,work your way around untill it's loose. Saves the scratching that prying can do to sensitive aluminum.
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Old 06-28-2007, 04:53 PM   #17
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supramascis I know I have to replace the head gasket, in another forum I had a question about the engine. the motor would only turn so far with a breaker bar when trying to rotate it by hand because, the engine just locked up when I first tried to start it. and what alot of people said was it could be a rod thrown through the engine and told me to look places under the car, I did not see any places that looks like a rod or bearing was thrown out of the engine so I had to save some money and buy a head gasket and started to tear it down. and Im hoping to find a bent valve because It would make me fill better than see nothing and try to find another problem that would be more difficult to repair or replace the whole engine entirly. do you know how much it cost to do the machine work.
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Old 07-01-2007, 11:47 PM   #18
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okay I have worked all today on the supra the head is lose and can move but it will not come all the way out, what could it be stuck on. there are some sensor wires that look like they go under the intake manifold, but it does not say much in the haynes manual about removing wires. what are all the wires you have to unhook to get the head off, and what to do with the fuel rail hook ups they seem to be in the way also, {I have unhooked them but they are a weird shape to get out from under the intake maifold}
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Old 07-02-2007, 12:47 AM   #19
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This is a perfect example of what trying to cut corners gets you when working on these cars guys.

I am going to need more input to be able to figure out what's holding it.

I bet it's your egr coupled to the upper plenum.
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