HP Upgrade time
hey, i have a 89 7mgte and a blown head gasket, so i just bought a HG off of HPF.com and it should be comming any day, its really thick like 1.71mm so compression will be down to 8-1 wich will be good. my next prob is when im doing the head job i think i should install a boost controller but i dont know what kind to go w/.what psi should ARP studs be added i'm only planning 15 to start prolly 20 MAX.(this 15-20psi is after i make sure everything is alright and working good) i just know the arp stud install is a hastle and i would like to avoid but if it is needed its needed, b/c the 7M head job isn't fun eather.
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i feel like it can handle the 15psi b/c i have changed ever aspect of the cooling system, and got a BOV (no real help but looks cool :) ) intake, cat back.strut bar coil overs, and like i said soon MBC and turbo timer. anything else to do b4 i do this?
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not to be mean
i dont think you realize that im not retarded i know that you need more than one gasket i have the gasket set i wanted an after market HG to lower the chance of it blowing. and yes i am taking it to be resurfaced.. also i have done this head jod on a N/A 2 times and i do realize they are stretch bolts and will be replacing them. all i wanted to know is do i need the studs also, for 15 psi, and what kind of BC is good... (no Disrespect, but im not that stupid).
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I went with ARP studs and I'm just an na. I also went with the HKS stopper 2.mm MHG. I have an upper gasket set wich I am sure will not have totally everything. I definitley want a toyota oem exhaust manifold gasket.
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ic. well the last gasket set i ordered didn't have the manifold gasket so beeing that i work at autozone i had it the next day. but you do feel that the studs will really help?b/c i bought this car for $2,000 drove it home on the 45 min drive it over heated. i knew it was prolly a HG but i hoped for the best. i replaced all the cooling system conponants and still overheat. so i know 90% it is the HG.. i did a block test but it seemed to pass. it didn't turn green. (i had just done a flush before i did the test if that matters) so i've spent about $2,500 so far on cooling and the car. i also bought the BOV coil overs, tail Pipe. wich brings me to about $3,000. so i am low on funds right now and would still like to do BC and Turbo timer.
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Alright there is a big debate going on with ARP absolutely being an urban myth.
I personally feel like I want to get as close to bullet proof as I possibley can. You also have to take your driving style into account. I could have bought brand new toyota oem head bolts and didn't because I want the security of a studded engine. The 350 dollar mhg and the 100 dollar arp's do not mean I will never blow another head gasket. But I think I have decided to torque my studs down to 80 lbs. I wouldn't want to risk that with new oem head bolts. The threads will strip sooner or later. I payed 2k,700 bucks for my ride. I put 3k.500 miles on it and it has been parked every sinse. In the last 2 weeks alone I have dumped 3k into parts for this car and still haven't gotten to the brakes. So I feel your plight. I say why risk it by not going ARP studs or bolts. Just my opinion and there's a reason it's free. |
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You still have the stock turbo right?
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Sometimes the best thing to do is break it down so small as if you don't know how to do it. It's not a sign of disrespect. He was just trying to help you.
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