HP Upgrade time
 

hey, i have a 89 7mgte and a blown head gasket, so i just bought a HG off of HPF.com and it should be comming any day, its really thick like 1.71mm so compression will be down to 8-1 wich will be good. my next prob is when im doing the head job i think i should install a boost controller but i dont know what kind to go w/.what psi should ARP studs be added i'm only planning 15 to start prolly 20 MAX.(this 15-20psi is after i make sure everything is alright and working good) i just know the arp stud install is a hastle and i would like to avoid but if it is needed its needed, b/c the 7M head job isn't fun eather.

i feel like it can handle the 15psi b/c i have changed ever aspect of the cooling system, and got a BOV (no real help but looks cool :) ) intake, cat back.strut bar coil overs, and like i said soon MBC and turbo timer. anything else to do b4 i do this?

lol wow. Anyways, first off, what kind of hg did u buy. Second you need ALOT more gaskets than just the hg. Third arps are easy to install and technically if your doing the hg you shouldnt re-use the stock head bolts. There likely to stretch and result in another falure. So buy the arp's anyway. Fourth, if ur hg is 1.7mm thick, its most likely a metal hg, so you WILL need to send your block and head out for deck'ing. Fifth, dont go with a mbc get a electronic bc. Greddy profec's are cheap and even spec 2 profecs arent that expensive. All of this info could have been found in ihatehack's bhg install thread. I recommend finding it and studying it. This job is pretty staight forward if you know what your doing and you do your research.

not to be mean
 

i dont think you realize that im not retarded i know that you need more than one gasket i have the gasket set i wanted an after market HG to lower the chance of it blowing. and yes i am taking it to be resurfaced.. also i have done this head jod on a N/A 2 times and i do realize they are stretch bolts and will be replacing them. all i wanted to know is do i need the studs also, for 15 psi, and what kind of BC is good... (no Disrespect, but im not that stupid).

I went with ARP studs and I'm just an na. I also went with the HKS stopper 2.mm MHG. I have an upper gasket set wich I am sure will not have totally everything. I definitley want a toyota oem exhaust manifold gasket.

ic. well the last gasket set i ordered didn't have the manifold gasket so beeing that i work at autozone i had it the next day. but you do feel that the studs will really help?b/c i bought this car for $2,000 drove it home on the 45 min drive it over heated. i knew it was prolly a HG but i hoped for the best. i replaced all the cooling system conponants and still overheat. so i know 90% it is the HG.. i did a block test but it seemed to pass. it didn't turn green. (i had just done a flush before i did the test if that matters) so i've spent about $2,500 so far on cooling and the car. i also bought the BOV coil overs, tail Pipe. wich brings me to about $3,000. so i am low on funds right now and would still like to do BC and Turbo timer.

Alright there is a big debate going on with ARP absolutely being an urban myth.

I personally feel like I want to get as close to bullet proof as I possibley can. You also have to take your driving style into account.

I could have bought brand new toyota oem head bolts and didn't because I want the security of a studded engine. The 350 dollar mhg and the 100 dollar arp's do not mean I will never blow another head gasket. But I think I have decided to torque my studs down to 80 lbs.

I wouldn't want to risk that with new oem head bolts. The threads will strip sooner or later.

I payed 2k,700 bucks for my ride. I put 3k.500 miles on it and it has been parked every sinse. In the last 2 weeks alone I have dumped 3k into parts for this car and still haven't gotten to the brakes.

So I feel your plight. I say why risk it by not going ARP studs or bolts.

Just my opinion and there's a reason it's free.

Dude you NEVER know. And im sure a few people can agree that the way you worded your first post, its sounds like you would have issues doing valve cover gaskets. And you have 18 posts. Which tells me you havent been here long. So dude you never know, no offense intended.

You still have the stock turbo right?

Sometimes the best thing to do is break it down so small as if you don't know how to do it. It's not a sign of disrespect. He was just trying to help you.

no prob man
 

i see he was trying to help. and sry if i sounded mad not what i intended. i did buy the studs today and the boost controller and a fuel cut deffender (which may or may not be pointless. some agree some dont.)i know i only have 18 post but you also only have 69 not that far away. and i would post more but you ppl are just so smart (most of you) that you say it all the first time.

yes it is the stock turbo. and i think i have posted b4 im in to big of a hurry to spell correctly...(i just suck lol).

I know about the post count thing man, im just saying, usually people new to forums in general, are pretty new to the car. Not even supra specific. Obviously in this case i was wrong. But yea your on the right path. The studs are def the way to go. If i may ask what version of fcd did you buy? I have one that is said to not work well with mkiii's but there is a version that is suppose to work pretty well.

i cant wait to put all my parts on
 

HKS 4501-RM003 HKS Supra 86-92 FCD Fuel Cut Controllers - Turbo Type K3 (Setting 3)

this is the one chris at HPF.com said would work the best. does anyone know what size walbro i should go 190 or 250 (or is it 255?) as of now i have stock injecters the fuel pump is not going to be soon but it is the next thing on my list.

Yes its the K3 that works with mkiii's. Sometimes with hpf you have to be real specific with what ur asking for. I was once told that underdrive pulleys WOULDNT require new belts lol. Oh oh and when i ordered my plugs from there site, i specifically called and asked if the part number i was ordering was all 6 plugs, he said yes, today i recieved my package... Guess what... Only 4 plugs as expected lol.

As far as the walbro. The 255lph is what ur refering to. The 255 is the one ur going to want. Im not sure if it requires a new fpr, maybe someone else can answer that, i think it does though.

Well if you boost 15-20 psi on ur stock turbo you aren't going to have a turbo more than a week, if that. The stock fuel system can handle some power but if you upgrade the fuel pump, you might as well upgrade the injectors to 550cc. And it would be a very good idea to look into a fuel pressure regulator. Aeromotive regulators are a popular choice. Also to get more air in, you're going to need to buy a Lexus LS400 AFM. Not sure of the year but it's an older one. It's just a bigger housing that allows the stock AFM sensor to bolt to it.

thank you
 

i have a t3 used on a thunderbird i could use if needed it should bolt up. and i was looking into injecters when i got the FP... so i should not boost 15 yet.. i should do 10 and wait until i do a bigger turbo. sounds good. as for HPF dave is the best person i talked to as of now. chris was a lil slower on supras but i still got really good service. spending 600.00 i better. now im just waiting for all the parts to arive and i will back on the road.

I think the stock turbo is only good to about 14psi. Good luck.:offwall:

ight thank you. so i wont be running high boost until i get a bigger turbo... do you think i should go ball bearing or not?

i dont know much about turbo's this is my first one all i know is i am learning somthing new ever day.

im low on cash for a while b/c of my new upgrades. so it would be a while b4 i could buy a ballbearing turbo...there so much money...also any good brands to keep in mind?

Then give me your BOV, then, because when i finally build my stroker motor in my Eclipse i'll need a better one than the factory one that can stand up to the amount of boost i intend to throw at it, to make damn sure i don't blow my intake out, unless you have kind of an el cheapo one, no offense. Counterfeiting aftermarket import performance parts is a serious problem, and a serious crime. You may have gotten a knock off. That's the reason why i won't buy anything from ebay, anymore. It was and it may still be a serious problem with selling counterfeit parts. I would hate to have purchased a part from there and put it on my car and it had failed, causing me to lose control of my car and cause an accident. I don't wanna take that change. I'll only purchase from known, honest business sites, like from the manufacturer or retailer of a name brand product. I don't trust people very much, and i have good reason to.

Trust me and my wallet it is 100% real. i ment it only makes it louder as of now b/c im running stock Psi so it is not really helping yet.

i was looking at some sites and i have heard of people running 20 psi on stock turbo and wastgate. i also know that people w/ t-birds use the same turbo's and run 25 psi. so would 15 psi really be harmful....(just a Q. im not sure)

Remember most turbos are high mileage. And pretty much anything after 13-14 psi it becomes a hair dryer spinning at 30k rpm. There really is no purpose for going over 13 psi on the stock turbo. You don't gain anything.

alright, thanks for your help. im building it tonight. all my parts have arived and so im going to start pulling everything off and should have it almost done tonight.... depending on if they can deck it in time.