where did i go wrong

[nelly26]

hi you need cut off recirculation pipe where the old bov use to be, i can take picture off mine to show how it should be if you want and also you have not got the right hks kit because the pipe that come with hks kit should replace the hole rubber pipe for intake

[suprra_girl]

how he had it was fine

3000 pipe blocked and intake blocked

i have told him to change how the "performance shop" told him to route it as now he has a leak in the intake and will be running lean
hopefully he has corrected this

also.. once again, if you think the bov might be the cause
wiggle the damn thing... if it moves.. it's loose and you need a bigger o-ring which goes inside the flange

altho it may not be the way most do it, its still going to work

altho pics of yours would be nice anyhow

[west_side_supra]

so wait you want me to to block both the 3000 and the intake, or else my block will go bomb? my Bov dont wiggle anymore cause i couldnt find a bigger o-ring so i just used some silicone to seal up the bov flange. so there is no leaking there, so far it is running great, no cutting out exhaust smells somewhat fine, gas mileage still seems right, nothing wrong running at all, i still havent tryed to block that intake pipe since the repair, ive got an extra lugnut to block it off so ill give it a try.

oh and please do post some pictures of your BOV setup

[suprra_girl]

if you have a hole venting/sucking to atmosphere in your intake you MUST block it

here's how the list works

air filter
afm
intake
turbo
intercooler
throttle body
intake manifold
combustion

now after the air filter you have the afm (the air METER device) it measures how much air is coming into your engine so it can squirt in the right amount of fuel for the air that you sucked in

BUT

you have an extra hole in your intake AFTER your air metering device which when your turbo sucks in air now it is not only sucking air from the filter it is now sucking in unmetered air

too much air = not enough fuel

the ecu is only putting in enough fuel to support the air it metered not the air you sucked in afterward

so to sum it all up
answer = detonation = pitting in the pistons = (depending on boost) meltdown of internal engine parts = new engine

not a fun exercise

silicon on those sorts of parts is not recommended.... you can get a new o-ring from anywhere, you just take them yours and ask for a thicker one but same diameter

so are you still having misfiring problems or are they gone?

[west_side_supra]

wow that was a great explaination to how that all works, i understand it all now. i did look for a thicker o-ring and i coulndt find jack. thats why i siliconed it, its not mis-fireing/bogging/cutting at all, its driving great, but ill plug up that pipe with the lug nut that the shop forgot to take out of my engine compartment after they were done now for one last question, if i was to get a boost controller how far would i be able to get my stock turbo to push, its only doing 6-7 lbs right now. and also what would be a good boost contoler to get, and im also kinda on a budget right now so maby a cheaper one also thanks again

[j3pz]

fyi ct26 arent for high boost, after like 13, 14 psi they start to become inefficient. also any manual boost controller would work, unless you want something you adjust on the go or electronic or high priced, w/e. sure you can find on ebay...