need help w/Bee-R rev limiter

7MGTReeds · 10-31-2013, 11:13 PM

Cre, I hear what you're saying. I've done tons of research in the pastafew days and I've seen genuine ones with long and short looms. Or At least ones that work with long and short looms. I guess the biggest visible sign of a counterfeit is blue switches. Guess ill find out in a few days

cre · 11-01-2013, 01:58 AM

The color of the casing of the potentiometers just isn't convincing enough. I've had plenty of batches of electronic components (boxes of 100 or more) from the same manufacturer where they switched between batches and one an a while mid lot. It'd really be great if the manufacturer would provide a definite test. Please do let us know what turns up and if you do get a good unit feel free to post a link for the vendor. Not a lot of call for these in the MKIII community but it wouldn't hurt to have a known good source.

7MGTReeds · 11-01-2013, 02:11 AM

Will definitely post who the vendor is if its a good unit. I don't want anyone to go through this. I understand not too many mk3 owners have these but I'm gonna support the community in any way that I can

7MGTReeds · 11-09-2013, 10:50 PM

*UPDATE*

Got the new unit in yesterday and got it installed. unit works as advertised! definitely got a bad unit from the last guy i bought it from. i can definitely tell a difference from the build quality. the unit is heavier, the wire loom looks cleaner and the switches actually make a click when you turn them. and the knobs on the new unit ARE connected to black switches.

i wired it the way the directions tell you to for an 89+ 7mgte and it did not work. I ended up having to wire it up the way the 3sgte says to do it. RED is the way that didn't work and GREEN is how I have it wired on the below instructions:

current working setup is as follows:

Red wire - +B (black w/red stripe wire on ECU connector)

Black wire - Ground (anywhere to the chassis)

Yellow wire - IGF (Turquoise w/black stripe wire on ECU connector)

Green wire - NE (Blue wire on ECU connector)

White wire - E-Brake (white wire coming from E-Brake light switch)

I'd imagine it would go the same way for the 87-88 ECU just make sure you're tapping into the ignition and RPM signal wires (IGF and NE) respectively. 89+ 7MGTE guys, here is the way you wire this thing up! i hope this helps and works for anyone else who is trying to do this.

cre · 11-10-2013, 04:42 AM

Thanks for posting. The pre89 and 89+ ECU connectors are quite different as far as both pinout and color code are concerned. '97-'88 would look like T-12 on that page but Y and G are reversed if Y = NE and G = IGf. R is correct for +B1.

EDIT: When in doubt refer to the manufacturer's diagram... http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Librar...aspx?S=FI&P=50 Confirms that the diagram they listed is not correct.

So, did you have the last unit correctly wired at any point? Just curious.

7MGTReeds · 11-10-2013, 04:02 PM

Yeah I had it wired in the configuration I have now and it didn't even work. The lights flickered at the right times when the ignition was supposed to cut but didn't work

cre · 11-10-2013, 07:11 PM

Ok, thanks. Well, at least you've got it all running now. Did you have any luck returning the bogus unit?

11-01-2013, 01:58 AM	#2
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	The color of the casing of the potentiometers just isn't convincing enough. I've had plenty of batches of electronic components (boxes of 100 or more) from the same manufacturer where they switched between batches and one an a while mid lot. It'd really be great if the manufacturer would provide a definite test. Please do let us know what turns up and if you do get a good unit feel free to post a link for the vendor. Not a lot of call for these in the MKIII community but it wouldn't hurt to have a known good source. __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar --->

11-10-2013, 04:42 AM	#5
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	Thanks for posting. The pre89 and 89+ ECU connectors are quite different as far as both pinout and color code are concerned. '97-'88 would look like T-12 on that page but Y and G are reversed if Y = NE and G = IGf. R is correct for +B1. EDIT: When in doubt refer to the manufacturer's diagram... http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Librar...aspx?S=FI&P=50 Confirms that the diagram they listed is not correct. So, did you have the last unit correctly wired at any point? Just curious. __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar ---> Last edited by cre; 11-10-2013 at 04:45 AM.

11-10-2013, 07:11 PM	#7
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	Ok, thanks. Well, at least you've got it all running now. Did you have any luck returning the bogus unit? __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar --->

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10-31-2013, 11:13 PM	#1
7MGTReeds Stock Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Glendale, Az Posts: 9	Cre, I hear what you're saying. I've done tons of research in the pastafew days and I've seen genuine ones with long and short looms. Or At least ones that work with long and short looms. I guess the biggest visible sign of a counterfeit is blue switches. Guess ill find out in a few days

11-01-2013, 02:11 AM	#3
7MGTReeds Stock Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Glendale, Az Posts: 9	Will definitely post who the vendor is if its a good unit. I don't want anyone to go through this. I understand not too many mk3 owners have these but I'm gonna support the community in any way that I can

11-09-2013, 10:50 PM	#4
7MGTReeds Stock Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Glendale, Az Posts: 9	UPDATE Got the new unit in yesterday and got it installed. unit works as advertised! definitely got a bad unit from the last guy i bought it from. i can definitely tell a difference from the build quality. the unit is heavier, the wire loom looks cleaner and the switches actually make a click when you turn them. and the knobs on the new unit ARE connected to black switches. i wired it the way the directions tell you to for an 89+ 7mgte and it did not work. I ended up having to wire it up the way the 3sgte says to do it. RED is the way that didn't work and GREEN is how I have it wired on the below instructions: current working setup is as follows: Red wire - +B (black w/red stripe wire on ECU connector) Black wire - Ground (anywhere to the chassis) Yellow wire - IGF (Turquoise w/black stripe wire on ECU connector) Green wire - NE (Blue wire on ECU connector) White wire - E-Brake (white wire coming from E-Brake light switch) I'd imagine it would go the same way for the 87-88 ECU just make sure you're tapping into the ignition and RPM signal wires (IGF and NE) respectively. 89+ 7MGTE guys, here is the way you wire this thing up! i hope this helps and works for anyone else who is trying to do this.

11-10-2013, 04:02 PM	#6
7MGTReeds Stock Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Glendale, Az Posts: 9	Yeah I had it wired in the configuration I have now and it didn't even work. The lights flickered at the right times when the ignition was supposed to cut but didn't work