which engine is the best engine for little money, fast, durable?

[ochowdero]

Originally Posted by cre

You should know the answer to that:

The MKIII Supra is an amazing vehicle and project car. It's not just a matter of what can be achieved in terms of performance but much more so the vehicle's uncanny ability to detect your total budget and ensure that the cost of ANY project will always exceed that sum by $500 or more.

Cre said it.

i personally havent really set a budget aside. just for the fact itll be a slow process until i can start getting deep into the build. being busy all the time and limited funds as of right now i cant do much but maintain my engine now and get it up to par and maybe mods here and there that are transferable to the 7mgte.
as soon as i know what i want to do with the 7mgte and get a parts lists going of what needs to be done and need for the build i will work a budget and hope that the supra doesnt force me to go over what i want.

to answer your question, a 2jzgte swap with minor mods pushing around 500hp? is about what? $2000-$3000+ ..since im going with the 7mgte, with less then 450hp, id say around half of what i would spend for the 2j.

[cre]

I'd start with suspension and brake upgrades, then start collecting parts. Some things such as a fuel controller, wideband controller, adjustable FPR and stronger fuel pump may all be installed while still running the N/A and it will give you a chance to learn the fuel controller. You can also install a good oil cooling system on the GE which will still be used on the GTE.

[abhattan]

I am currently researching and pricing what it would cost me to do a 1JZ-GTE VVti swap and right now, engine, tranny, ECU with all loose ends, about $3500. I will be doing all of the work, so I save a lot on labor. This engine is a single and NOT a twin like the non-VVTi. Bigger injectors and upping the boost and I will be near or at the 400hp mark. All of that without opening up the engine either. But of course, that will just be the begining...

[ochowdero]

Originally Posted by abhattan

I am currently researching and pricing what it would cost me to do a 1JZ-GTE VVti swap and right now, engine, tranny, ECU with all loose ends, about $3500. I will be doing all of the work, so I save a lot on labor. This engine is a single and NOT a twin like the non-VVTi. Bigger injectors and upping the boost and I will be near or at the 400hp mark. All of that without opening up the engine either. But of course, that will just be the begining...

yeah exactly my point, 1j and 2js are more durable. you feel safer just slapping in the engine and calling it a day. even with that engine id still be replacing the head gasket and making sure nothing is warped or cracked.
you can get close to that 400 mark with a rebuilt 7m(stock internals, maybe some aftermarket parts to get alil more hp) just like the 1j.
the HG is the biggest problem that i see with them and if you fix it RIGHT THE FIRST TIME then you wont run into that problem...

[ochowdero]

should i piggy back the fuel controller?

[ochowdero]

Test drive=fail!
After clearing the codes I test drove the car to SE if they'll come back.
After getting to OP temp.. Still no codes, but now it stalls out when I down shift. Or slow down.... Hmmmmmm?

[cre]

Don't ever assume that you're safe swapping in ANY engine blindly. A used engine is a used engine... P E R I O D. You wouldn't believe how many are known to be complete garbage and are still shipped. Video of it running? I've driven cars home after throwing a rod... 10 seconds of video of it running doesn't mean a thing. I've seen engines with phenomenal compression test results which then sat in an open yard for months with no spark plugs in place all the while allowing the rings to seize and the cylinder walls to pit like the surface of the moon. If you buy used plan on rebuilding it.

As for suspension: It doesn't take much to beat old, stock parts. Stiffer springs and decent dampers. Eibach's paired with KYB GR-2 dampers make for a great feel with a very low ticket price (while still streetable thanks to the subtle progressive spring rates). Add to that new bushings where needed (no need for urethane unless you can just get them cheaper) and stiffer sway bars and you may find yourself flat out stunned by the difference.

A fuel controller a type of piggy back. They all require an ECU to pair up with. Is there something else you're referring to?

[ochowdero]

Originally Posted by cre

Don't ever assume that you're safe swapping in ANY engine blindly. A used engine is a used engine... P E R I O D. You wouldn't believe how many are known to be complete garbage and are still shipped. Video of it running? I've driven cars home after throwing a rod... 10 seconds of video of it running doesn't mean a thing. I've seen engines with phenomenal compression test results which then sat in an open yard for months with no spark plugs in place all the while allowing the rings to seize and the cylinder walls to pit like the surface of the moon. If you buy used plan on rebuilding it.

As for suspension: It doesn't take much to beat old, stock parts. Stiffer springs and decent dampers. Eibach's paired with KYB GR-2 dampers make for a great feel with a very low ticket price (while still streetable thanks to the subtle progressive spring rates). Add to that new bushings where needed (no need for urethane unless you can just get them cheaper) and stiffer sway bars and you may find yourself flat out stunned by the difference.

A fuel controller a type of piggy back. They all require an ECU to pair up with. Is there something else you're referring to?

I don't know much about them I just seen them.
I was looking at the Greddy e-manage.

Suspension is indeed a need. I'm riding stiff..
That's was along the lines I was looking at. Coilovers are too expensive.
I do want to handle corners like a champ tho. Haha

[ochowdero]

Originally Posted by cre

I'd start with suspension and brake upgrades, then start collecting parts. Some things such as a fuel controller, wideband controller, adjustable FPR and stronger fuel pump may all be installed while still running the N/A and it will give you a chance to learn the fuel controller. You can also install a good oil cooling system on the GE which will still be used on the GTE.

yeah i was looking at an oil cooler.
http://compare.ebay.com/like/1405586...Types&var=sbar

im going to be doing suspension, brakes and tires here very soon.
tires first! i am beyond the legal limit of tread on tires.. i believe 4/32 in california is illegal
i trying to get a decent idea of suspension though. im looking around and just dont know what to get. maybe you can give suspension ideas.

BTW - i have code 12, 27, 41.. i cleaned the ground strap terminal on the intake manifold and put it my extra ecu and it cleared up. i havent drove it yet to see if theyll come back yet. but i know that dirty or corroded ecu ground straps can throw codes.

[TOMDYE]

I have a similar question as "ochowdero" in "which engine is the best engine for little money, fast, durable?". Thanks for starting this thread and those who provided answers, namely MA70-3.0GT and CRE.

My baby is an '89 Metal-flake Gray, Turbo, Targa, 126K miles. Body and Interior are immaculate; the 7MGTE engine is tired, burns some oil and recently suffered the BHG issue.
I was thinking about swapping out the 7MGTE with the 2JZGTE-ct12b, but this thread convinced me not to go that route.
My question now is where to find a solid, remanufactured engine (Long Block). The Toyota dealer wants 3,700.00, a local, parts distributor (Houston, TX) wants 2,600.00. I have talked to other parts distributors on the Internet, which generally have used engines for anywhere from 1,100.00 to 2,000.00.
The money is not an issue, as I know I will need to add about 800.00 to 1,000.00 for the missing pieces the Long-Block does not come with.
Does anybody have a referral for a engine distributor that is honest, fair, and stands by their products? Preferrably, someone that you have done business with.
Are there any recommendations for extras that I can do or add to this project during the motor install? I’d like to bump the performance up (today I am at stock, except a K&N air filter, 3in down-pipe, hi-flow cat & 3in exhaust). I am thinking perhaps a waste-gate by-pass valve, maybe a new Turbo, hi-performance intercooler. Any suggestions are appreciated, and please provide an referral to a reputable performance distributor to make these purchases (“Stillin” is excessive in cost!).
This is my second ’89 T&T, and I have loved the ride since 1994.
Thank a lot.