Engine pulling help needed

icey756 · 02-05-2012, 11:54 PM

Damn. Cre do u remember how u managed to remove that put that was held in place by that "e" clip? The clip was easy as hell to remove once i had my head at the right angle and wasnt straining my neck so damn bad. lol. But i sprayed penetrating oil on the pin and it still wont budge. Im debating weather i should slide the engine back in a little bit to maybe relieve some pressure on the fork? idk. Im so frustrated. I would take the trans out too but im working in my dads garage and i am limited on room. if it were summer i would just work in the driveway.

cre · 02-06-2012, 01:55 AM

You most definitely need to move the engine back against the transmission...

This should not be as difficult as you're making it... You've gotta learn somehow but generally people suggesting you learn from their mistakes are suggesting it because, well, they've already made the same mistake.

I've worked in small garages before. Roll the car back a couple feet, pull engine and tranny in all of 30 minutes, lower engine and tranny so that tranny's resting on a tire or rolling stand, detach engine from tranny, put engine on engine stand, move hoist and tranny out of the garage, roll car back in in time for lunch.

Anyway, yes, move the engine back, pull the fork, slide the engine forward as straight as possible while the transmission is still attached; The input shaft is pretty beefy but it's always best to proceed with caution. Absolutely disconnect the driveshaft.

icey756 · 02-06-2012, 03:03 AM

why do i need to disconnect the drive shaft?

cre · 02-06-2012, 06:11 AM

I don't think you're going to be able to tip the engine enough to clear the oil pan otherwise. If you force it you may damage the input shaft, bearing or oil seal; output shaft, bearing or oil seal; or the drive shaft or carrier bearing. I could be wrong though... If you find otherwise let us know.

icey756 · 02-20-2012, 04:35 AM

Well i finally got the engine out 2 days ago and been breaking it down. After that damn clutch for was off i could tell right away that the problem was indeed that fork. As far as bending anything it doesnt appear that i did. Is there anyway to check that without actually putting it back in? Oh and btw I will be posting a picture of that fork and also what its around. It will be clear to anyone pulling the engine why u would need to pull that for BEFORE DOING ANYTHING.

Also I need all new gaskets since almost half of them are 24 years old

Do u think this would be a good set? not concerned about the head gasket for this since im hopefully getting a metal one. http://www.streetimports.com/product_details.asp?id=710
Also i cant tell if this comes with an oil pan gasket? basically i need every single gasket for this engine and im not sure how many there really are.

cre · 02-20-2012, 07:48 AM

The oil pan isn't supposed to be installed with a gasket and I can assure you with great confidence that it is MUCH more likely to leak if you use one (such as the one which Fel-Pro includes). Use Toyota FIPG as directed in the TSRM, Honda's FIPG is quite good too or "Right Stuff" (the kind in a compressed can)... You'll also be using this on the #1 cam caps and at the union of the head and lower rear timing belt cover (DO NOT FORGET TO APPLY FIPG HERE!!!).

icey756 · 02-20-2012, 05:54 PM

alright ill keep that in mind. Also what about seeing if anything got bent in the removal process?

02-06-2012, 01:55 AM	#2
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	You most definitely need to move the engine back against the transmission... This should not be as difficult as you're making it... You've gotta learn somehow but generally people suggesting you learn from their mistakes are suggesting it because, well, they've already made the same mistake. I've worked in small garages before. Roll the car back a couple feet, pull engine and tranny in all of 30 minutes, lower engine and tranny so that tranny's resting on a tire or rolling stand, detach engine from tranny, put engine on engine stand, move hoist and tranny out of the garage, roll car back in in time for lunch. Anyway, yes, move the engine back, pull the fork, slide the engine forward as straight as possible while the transmission is still attached; The input shaft is pretty beefy but it's always best to proceed with caution. Absolutely disconnect the driveshaft. __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar --->

02-06-2012, 03:03 AM	#3
icey756 3" Exhaust Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 177	why do i need to disconnect the drive shaft? __________________ 1988 7M-GTE Manual Turbo, Godspeed IC, Stock HG Torque to 90FP W/ Arp bolts, Silicon water hose kit, silicon vacuum hoses, Godspeed radiator, 2 12" electric fans.

02-06-2012, 06:11 AM	#4
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	I don't think you're going to be able to tip the engine enough to clear the oil pan otherwise. If you force it you may damage the input shaft, bearing or oil seal; output shaft, bearing or oil seal; or the drive shaft or carrier bearing. I could be wrong though... If you find otherwise let us know. __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar --->

02-20-2012, 04:35 AM	#5
icey756 3" Exhaust Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 177	Well i finally got the engine out 2 days ago and been breaking it down. After that damn clutch for was off i could tell right away that the problem was indeed that fork. As far as bending anything it doesnt appear that i did. Is there anyway to check that without actually putting it back in? Oh and btw I will be posting a picture of that fork and also what its around. It will be clear to anyone pulling the engine why u would need to pull that for BEFORE DOING ANYTHING. Also I need all new gaskets since almost half of them are 24 years old Do u think this would be a good set? not concerned about the head gasket for this since im hopefully getting a metal one. http://www.streetimports.com/product_details.asp?id=710 Also i cant tell if this comes with an oil pan gasket? basically i need every single gasket for this engine and im not sure how many there really are. __________________ 1988 7M-GTE Manual Turbo, Godspeed IC, Stock HG Torque to 90FP W/ Arp bolts, Silicon water hose kit, silicon vacuum hoses, Godspeed radiator, 2 12" electric fans. Last edited by icey756; 02-20-2012 at 05:37 AM.

02-20-2012, 07:48 AM	#6
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	The oil pan isn't supposed to be installed with a gasket and I can assure you with great confidence that it is MUCH more likely to leak if you use one (such as the one which Fel-Pro includes). Use Toyota FIPG as directed in the TSRM, Honda's FIPG is quite good too or "Right Stuff" (the kind in a compressed can)... You'll also be using this on the #1 cam caps and at the union of the head and lower rear timing belt cover (DO NOT FORGET TO APPLY FIPG HERE!!!). __________________ If something breaks or you need to contact a member of the administration please post HERE. Unless it's a private or administration matter please post it on the forum. It benefits no one else if car related questions aren't posted for future users and takes away from the time I'm able to spend helping on the rest of the forum. If you're so inclined I'm always more than happy to accept tips via PayPal. Tip Jar --->

02-05-2012, 11:54 PM	#1
icey756 3" Exhaust Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 177	Damn. Cre do u remember how u managed to remove that put that was held in place by that "e" clip? The clip was easy as hell to remove once i had my head at the right angle and wasnt straining my neck so damn bad. lol. But i sprayed penetrating oil on the pin and it still wont budge. Im debating weather i should slide the engine back in a little bit to maybe relieve some pressure on the fork? idk. Im so frustrated. I would take the trans out too but im working in my dads garage and i am limited on room. if it were summer i would just work in the driveway. __________________ 1988 7M-GTE Manual Turbo, Godspeed IC, Stock HG Torque to 90FP W/ Arp bolts, Silicon water hose kit, silicon vacuum hoses, Godspeed radiator, 2 12" electric fans.

02-20-2012, 05:54 PM	#7
icey756 3" Exhaust Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 177	alright ill keep that in mind. Also what about seeing if anything got bent in the removal process? __________________ 1988 7M-GTE Manual Turbo, Godspeed IC, Stock HG Torque to 90FP W/ Arp bolts, Silicon water hose kit, silicon vacuum hoses, Godspeed radiator, 2 12" electric fans.

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